





\i .**«< :-^':..V S *v>V ,:-,:• - 




aj i Mi.u'. i. vm^MM 






I 

1 




I 









1/,*-. 



** 






i 



I l 

* > I * 

■ 







THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 



BROWN BROTHEKS <fc CO., 

59 Wall St., New York, 

211 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, 
66 State Street, Boston, 192 Common Street, New Orleans, 

AND - 

ALEXANDER BROWN & SONS, 

Cor. Baltimore and Calvert Streets, Baltimore, 



^Bup Sell Bills of Exchange 




-ON- 



Lonflon, Liverpool, Eiiinlinreli, Belfast, Paris, Antwerp, Berlin, 

Bremen, Amsterdam: 
Issue Commercial and Travelers' Credits, 

AVAILABLE IN ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD. 

And in FRANCS, for use in MARTINIQUE and GUADALOUPE : 

>Pake ¥ele^kpl\id ¥tfii^fei^ of M°W, 

Between this'and other countries through London and Paris : 

Make Collections of Drafts Drawn Abroad on all points in 

the United States and Canada^ and of Drafts Drawn 

in the United States and Foreign Countries. 

T'O HTT? AVI71 t?T?S Travelers' Credits Issued, either against Cash De- 
-I- v/ J_ J_ill_ V LiJJlJliO. posited, or Satisfactory Guarantee of Repayment; 
in Dollars, for use. in the United States and adjacent Countries, or in Pounds Sterling, 
for use in any part of the World. Application for Credits may be addressed to either 
of the above Houses direct or through any first-class Bank or Banker. 



Brown, Shipley & Co., Brown, Shipley & Co., 

26 Chapel Street, - - LiYerpl. FouMei's Court, Lotinry, London. 



y& 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 



P 




it&HIK ™ 






^>- 



« 





MANUFACTURERS OF 



Silks, 

Ribbons, etc. 

57 & 59 GREENE STREET, New York. 



FACTORIES : 



THE 



SILK GOODS OF AMERICA: 

A Brief Account of the Recent 

IMPROVEMENTS AND ADVANCES 

OF 

SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 



* 3 



M.. C.HvYCKOFF. 



V 






^™M\M[\M J /////■/ /// 



^ <2k. 




rUELlSHED UNDER THE AUSPICES OF THE SlLK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 



44 HOWARD STREET, 



New York. 

1880. 



PRICE, 



$3.00. 



' 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1 87 9, by 

WM. C. WYCKOFF, 

in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. 






E. O'Keefe, 

Book and Job Printer, 

48 & soDuane St, N.lf. 



£ 






TABLE OF CONTENTS. 






THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

Page. 
Chapter I. —Introductory, -------7 

Chapter II. — Raw Silk, ------- 10 

Chapter III. — Sewings and Twist, - - - - - -14 

Chapter IV. — Weaving — Preparatory Processes, - - - 24 

Chapter V.— Black Dress Goods, - - - - - -28 

Chapter VI. — Various Piece Goods, ----- $3 

Chapter VII.— Spun Silk, - - - - - - -37 

Chapter VIII. — Handkerchiefs, &c, - - - - 41 

Chapter IX. — Ribbons, - - ------44 

Chapter X. — Trimmings and Passementerie, - - - - 47 

Chapter XI. — Silk Laces, - - - - - - -51 

Chapter XII. — Dyeing, ------- 55 

Eighth Annual Report of the Silk Association of America. 

Officers of the Association, 1 880-1 88 1, - - - - - 6^ 

Members of the Association, May, 1880, - - • - 65 

By-Laws of the Association, . - - - - - -69 

Annual Report of the Secretary, ------ 73 

Description of the Statistics, - » - - - - -81 

Chart of Fluctuations of Raw Silk, - 8$ 
Imports of Raw Silk, by countries, ------ 84 

Imports of Waste Silk, 1875-6101879-80, - 85 



\ 



4 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

Page. 
Imports of Raw Silk by months, Calendar years, 86 

Imports of Raw Silk by months, Fiscal years, - 87 

Imports of Silk Manufactures, by Calendar years, -- - 88 

Imports of Silk Manufactures, by Fiscal years, - 89 

Exports of Silk Manufactures from France, 50 years, 90 

Silk Manufactures in the United States, 1879, - 91 

Duties collected on United States Imports, - - - - 92 

American Silk Goods Directory, - - - - - 95 

Index of Subjects, - - - - - - - -133 

Business Announcements,- - - - - - - i^g 



PREFACE. . 

The manufacture of silk goods in this country has been increasing in 
extent and variety for several years. In a few branches of this industry, 
the articles made here have so completely met the needs of the home 
market that importations from abroad have almost ceased. In certain 
other branches, our factories have barely effected a beginning, and the 
market is still controlled by imported goods. The great bulk of our silk 
manufacturing interests are in positions between these extremes, holding 
a tolerably secure footing on their own soil, but not yet freed from 
foreign competition. 

Meanwhile the general public — the consumers of silk goods — have 
been slenderly informed concerning these changes, and especially as to the 
improvements in manufacture. Everybody knows that silk goods, both 
domestic and foreign, are cheaper now than formerly ; but comparatively 
few persons are aware that the American goods are better as well as 
cheaper. That there is much general ignorance on this subject, may be 
shown in many ways ; perhaps the most striking illustration is presented 
by the fact that nearly the entire product of some of our silk mills is still 
represented as of European make, in the final sales of the retailer to the 
consumer. In fact, our manufacturers have been obliged to make better 
fabrics than their foreign rivals, in order to attain standing in a market 
where imported articles held a long-established reputation. 

It is time that the actual merits of American silks should be laid before 
the American public ; and that in so doing, the whole trade should be 



6 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

represented, rather than its individual members. With the hope of 
partially accomplishing that object, this book has been written. The 
fie;d is a wide one, and the attempt is new ; hence it will not be a matter 
of surprise if the harvest of facts has been imperfectly gleaned. In pre- 
senting this volume to the public, the author would be better satisfied 
with his work if it were nearly as excellent as the fabrics it describes. 



w. c. w. 



44 Howard Street, N. Y., 
July, i8yc. 




THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 
I. 

Introductory. 

ENTURIES have been required for the development 
of the silk industry of Europe. The manufacture 
in this country dates its early successes nearly forty 
years ago, but its best work has all been done within 
a comparatively recent period. We shall have occa- 
sion in the following chapters to call attention to 
great improvements in the art of making silk goods, 
that have taken place within even four or five years. 
Such progress is the more remarkable as occurring during a time of 
general commercial depression, while prices of all kinds of textile fabrics 
were declining, and while the demand for luxuries — in which all articles 
of silk are usually included — was notably diminished. Under these 
circumstances, the volume of trade was not greatly enlarged, but goods 
that were better in every way, and of a far higher and more difficult order 
of manufacture, were produced. 

Many causes have combined in bringing about this result. The war 
of the rebellion stimulated most of our manufacturing interests by check- 
ing importations of foreign goods. During the period of inflated prices 
that followed, many new factories were built and the facilities for work 
were greatly extended. Direct trade with Asia across the Pacific Ocean 
and by rail from San Francisco, brought Chinese and Japanese raw silks 
to this market, of better quality and of lower cost than before, placing us 
more nearly on a level with Europe in respect to supplies of the raw 
material. When the so-called " hard times ' ' came, people in general, 
reduced their purchases of the more costly foreign silks. European 
manufacturers strove to meet the change by making cheaper and inferior 
goods ; our manufacturers tried to catch trade by making better fabrics, 
since there was at all events no profit in the cheaper lines. The Centen- 



S THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

jiial Exhibition did good service by showing to hundreds of thousands 
of our people something of the advances in manufacture, and it helped to 
develop a spirit of patriotism that appreciates goods made here, as at least 
equal to those that are imported. 

Meanwhile the introduction of the power-loom had started a general 
change and overhauling of the machinery employed. Our countrymen 
have been much more prompt than Europeans in this matter, substituting 
steam-driven machinery for the hand-loom upon each new kind of goods 
as fast as they were demanded. We now make all sorts of fabrics on power- 
looms, from gossamer veiling to upholstery brocatelle, and the uniformity 
of goods thus made, is, in itself, an improvement. The workers in the 
mills have also been learning, so that they waste less silk, and perform 
their labor more efficiently, in connection with the new machinery. 

The most important of the causes which have led to the improvement 
•of our silk goods remains to be noticed ; it is the continuance of the tariff 
policy of the Government. If that had vacillated during the last ten or 
fifteen years, we should have had no story of improvement to tell. 

The rapid changes of fashion, although at times inflicting loss on our 
manufacturers, are probably on the whole, a benefit. These changes 
compel improvement in the art. Any new, finer, higher grade of goods 
obliges the maker to perfect his labor as well as his machinery. Our 
people are also more enterprising than their foreign competitors in making 
changes of machinery required for novelties, and thus meeting the de- 
mand while a fashion is at its height. It is scarcely too much to say that 
extensive alterations are made in a week or two in our mills, which would 
not be effected for months at Lyons, St. Etienne, or Crefeld. 

This enterprising haste to meet new requirements of fashion is charac- 
teristic of our manufacturers, and, not being confined to a few, results in 
sharp competition between them. Consequently the prices of these goods 
are not exorbitant. A different result takes place in a market that is solely 
dependent upon foreign goods, where one or two importers who happen 
to obtain just the things that are in demand, can safely insist upon the 
very highest prices. 

It will be noticed when we come to particulars concerning various 
kinds of silk goods, that, parallel with their improvement in quality and 
the increase of their manufacture in this country, there has been a steady 
decline in their cost to the consumer. This is the legitimate result of 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 9 

healthy competition here. It furnishes an unanswerable argument in favor 
of a tariff policy which protects home industry. 

Since, however, our manufacturers have been continually obliged to 
sink money in enlarging their facilities, improving their machinery, and 
educating their work-people for their tasks ; and since prices for all kinds 
of silk goods have steadily declined, it follows that the business has not 
been largely profitable. Manufacturers have mostly held their own, but 
have not reaped riches. The great benefits have accrued to two classes — 
the consumers, who have obtained better and cheaper goods ; the opera- 
tives, who have had steady employment. It is pleasant to know that the 
work-people who have thus been benefited are of a higher class than the 
average. The work is cleanly, comparatively light, and is not hurtful in 
any way to the operative. t Hence it happens that respectable parents who 
would object to having their families employed in other factories, are glad 
to have them busy in the silk mills. The contrast between the laboring 
classes of this country and of Europe is nowhere more striking than in 
this industry. 




TO THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 




II. 

- ^ j£ \\ Raw Silk. 

HE raw material of which silk goods are made, is not 
produced in this country. This has been the case 
since 1840, with the exception of a few scattered ex- 
periments of little profit and no commercial import- 
ance. There had been some business done in silk 
culture for many years before the date named, but it 
was swept out of existence by the ruin which followed 
great speculations in mulberry plantations and a wide- 
spread blight of the trees. In a large portion of the United States, 
healthy silkworms can be bred and reared by anybody who has time, 
patience, and mulberry trees at command. The sole difficulty is to 
dispose of the cocoons at a profit. The manufacturer of silk goods 
wants reeled silk, not cocoons. Reeling is the most important process 
in preparing the raw silk, the value of that article depending largely 
upon the way in which the reeling is performed. It is best conducted at 
a filature where cheap but skilled labor can be applied. There is no 
filature at present in this country. 

Whether, under certain favoring circumstances, it would not be prac- 
ticable to produce silk profitably in the United States, is an open 
question. A great deal has been said and written upon the subject. 
The most reasonable conclusions that have been reached, are to the 
following effect : It is not at all advisable to undertake silk- culture any- 
where on a large scale. The industry is not likely to be profitable, even 
though conducted in a small way, if the culturist must first be at a 
considerable outlay for land and mulberry trees, or has to hire labor 
specially for the undertaking. If the women of a farming household 
could, in addition to their usual labors, rear silkworms ; and if a sufficient 
number of families in a neighborhood were engaged in the business to 
produce cocoons enough to keep a filature busy, then capital could be 
easily found to build a filature and train its operatives. In any case it is 
not to b: expected that the business would be highly remunerative, 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. II 

though it might, if skillfully conducted, add a little to the income of 
many households in the Middle, Western and Southern States, after the 
first difficulties were overcome. 

Of the raw silk now used in manufacture in this country, about twenty- 
four per cent, is shipped from Europe and the rest from Asia ; but some 
part of that imported from England, is of Asiatic origin. In Italy and 
France there are two classes of silk produced : ' ' country silk, " which is 
reeled in households and by primitive methods ; "filature silk," which 
has been reeled with skill and sedulous care in the filatures. The 
"country silk" is, of course, inferior, and very little of it is sent to this 
country, because it requires much labor to be expended upon it in manu- 
facturing processes. The factories of Europe, where labor is cheap, can 
use inferior silk to better advantage than is possible in America. The 
silk produced in China is in the first instance, ' ' country silk ;" to prepare 
it for this market, it has to be re-reeled. The Japanese now have filatures, 
and send us silk that is equal to the best of European. In Asia, as in 
Europe, the coarser and inferior silks are kept at home ; America gets 
the finest and best. 

This result, as to Asiatic silks, has been slowly brought about. The 
Chinese are a people who cannot be hurried, and many years and no 
little effort were required to impress upon them the necessity of re-reeling 
to suit our market. The reels for this purpose were in the first instance 
made here and sent out to China ; their use was brought about by the 
urgent and repeated representations of American merchants there. The 
re-reeling is, however, not always well done. Aside from carelessness, 
which alone would deteriorate the value very largely, there is considerable 
imposition practiced in adulterating Chinese raw silk. Sugar, salt, rice, 
and acetate of lead are mentioned as among the substances used for 
adulteration. At intervals there have been brief periods when there was 
more care and less fraud in Chinese re-reeling ; at present there is a 
season of backsliding, and the "raws" are about as bad as they have 
ever been. 

The Japanese have taken a different course. Within four or five years 
they have established a number of filatures, where excellent work is per- 
formed. The government has encouraged the work, and owns one of the 
filatures, where skilled operatives from Europe were employed at first, and 
native labor has since been educated. The result has been that while the 



12 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 



Chinese have improved a very little, the Japanese have advanced with 
singular rapidity, and their silk has taken rank with the best in our 
market. Xo fraud is attempted by adulteration in Japanese silks, and 
though there is, of course, some variation in their quality, their tendency 
is toward a uniformly higher standard. The amount of Japanese silk 
sent to this market is steadily increasing. 

In European raw silk the variations of quality have been less important 
than those of quantity. The silkworm is a prey to numerous maladies, and 
is especially sensitive to weather changes during the brief season of rearing. 
The differences of product in good or bad years are enormous. The fol- 
lowing table will illustrate these variations, and also indicate the striking 
effect of a disease called pebrine, which began to exhibit its force in 1864 : 

Annual Silk Production in Italy. 



Before the malady, 

1863, - - ' 

1864, 

1865, 

1866, 

1867, 

1868, 

1869, 

1870, 

1871, - - 

1872, - - 

i3 7 3, - - 

1874, - - 

1875, - - 
1876, 

1877, - ■ 

1878, - - 



KILOS. 




3,710,000 




2,308,000 


Dirainutiorij 


1,731,000 


(C 


1,762,000 


" 


1,800,800 


it 


2,000,000 


it 


1,900,000 


" 


2,150,000 


it 


3,l80,0O0 


it 


3,473,000 


it 


3,125,000 


it 


2,960,000 


" 


3,430,000 


it 


3,073,000 


it 


1,010,000 


it 


1,853,400 


it 


2,650,000 


n 



38 per cent. 


53 


a 


52 


" 


5i 


c< 


46 


(< 


49 


" 


42 


<< 


14 


a 


6 


" 


16 


<( 


20 


a 


7 


11 


17 


it 


72 


it 


5° 


a 


28 


ti 



As there has been a gradual increase of consumption of silk goods 
throughout the world, it may be fairly inferred that a like increase of the 
production of raw silk has taken place. But the variety in the size of 
crops in different countries in successive years has been so great as tx> 
mask the total increase. These fluctuations, carrying prices with them, 
so that the material is worth twice as much at one time as at another, are 
most pernicious to manufacturing interests. It is a singular fact that the 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 13 

market for goods sympathizes only to a small extent with that of the raw 
material. When the value of silk doubled during the speculation of 1876, 
the price of a silk dress was scarcely raised at all. As a rule, the advance 
of cost of raw silk, when it does take place, is exceedingly rapid ; its fall 
is apt to be equally precipitate. While the high price lasts, it is a terrible 
oppression to the small manufacturer. When twice as much money is re- 
quired to buy material, he can only purchase half as much, either for cash 
or on credit ; and for a while at least, he must calculate to make goods 
at a loss. If the changes in value were at all permanent, the trade could 
soon be accommodated to them ; but a great speculation in raw silk is. 
like a cyclone of wind and rain, that brings destruction instead of fertil- 
izing the earth. 

A marked change in the currents of trade has taken place since the 
opening of direct routes to Asia. In the raw silk business this has. 
resulted in transferring to France the bulk of Asiatic imports, which for- 
merly went to England. There are, however, great facilities for handling, 
selling and buying raw silk in London, and that city still holds eminence 
as a silk market. The amount of raw silk consumed in this country is 
not large enough to exercise control in foreign markets, and our prices 
are regulated by those of Europe. We can and do, however, purchase 
as cheaply in Asia as European buyers. Raw silk being a costly article 
of small bulk, the freight on it adds little to its cost, though to reach us it. 
must come half way around the world. But the new routes of com- 
merce bring us silk more quickly than in former years, making it cost 
less in insurance, in interest on capital, and in the risk of change of price 
while in transit. The importation of raw silk into this country was 
greater last year than in any preceding year, as will be seen from the fol- 
lowing figures of receipts at United States ports : 

POUNDS. POUNDS.. 

1870, .... 73 s *3 Sl 1875, ----- 1,330,482: 

1871, 1,391,675 1876, .... 1,252,312. 

1872, - - - - 1,244,193 1877, 1,007,504 

1873, 831,7-8 1878, .... 1,590,663 

1874, .... 806,774 1879, 2,401,85"" 



14 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 




/-N IIL 

&) Sewing-Silk and Machine-Twist. 

HE manufacture of silk thread in this country is a dis- 
tinct branch of industry, which has wholly outgrown 
foreign competition. Its commanding position has 
not been, however, easily attained. A deep-rooted 
prejudice in favor of Italian sewing-silk was implant- 
ed in the breasts of our countrywomen. For a long 
while the products of New England mills . could only 
be sold in the partial disguise afforded by labels 
and wrappers in some degree resembling those of foreign goods. To 
meet this prejudice, the leading manufacturers adopted as trade-names for 
their goods, words newly compounded for the purpose, and having Italian 
terminations. A curious memorial of that era is carefully preserved in 
the counting-room of a large East India importing house in this city. 
The relic occupies a space of 65 by 40 inches, and is quaintly painted 
in colored letters. It is a Declaration of Independence on the part of 
the silk manufacturers of this country. In no branch of the industry 
has the spirit of this declaration been lived up to so completely, as in 
the sewings and twist trade. Let us hope that in all other departments 
there may be before long a similar compliance with this most excellent 
resolution, which reads as follows : 



1843 — Oct. 13th — Resolved, that this Convention learns with deep 
regret that, as in other kinds of American Manufacture, it has 
hitherto been deemed necessary to attach the Foreign Labels, Eng- 
lish, French and Italian, to the excellent sewings and fabrics of our 
own Silk Manufacturers, in order to command a ready sale in our 
city markets, superior as these sewings and fabrics are known to be, 
in strength, texture and durability to the foreign articles. 

And we earnestly recommend to Our Silk Manufacturers, now in 
the infancy of our enterprise, to set a Good Example to their brethren 
in other manufactures, by attaching their ownname to their own goods. 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. I 5 

The trade-marks of the four most prominent silk manufacturers of that 
day, ornament the corners of the board which bears the foregoing legend. 

At first, American sewing-silks were made exclusively in skeins, and 
they were introduced by being carried from door to door and sold to 
actual consumers. The methods of testing the qualities of the silk' were 
primitive. The buyer would pull and hold up a thread to 'ascertain 
whether it was likely to kink, for the sewing-silk of that day was not 
always properly twisted. Then followed an examination by drawing it 
over the finger-nail, to detect the dirt and slugs which were not rarely 
left in inferior grades. The final test was by comparison with some thread 
already known and approved. This was effected by taking a thread from 
each of the two kinds to be compared, and crossing them so that each 
caught the other in a loop. A vigorous pull then broke one or the other, 
usually at the point of crossing, and was regarded as determining which was 
the stronger. Even as a comparative test, this method was not very trust- 
worthy, since a hard-twisted thread would cut one of looser texture, even 
though the latter might be somewhat the stronger. 

At a later period it became customary to test sewing-silks by means of a 
clumsy machine ; a sort of steelyards having a heavy ball attached to a 
lever. According to the strength of the silk, it was capable of pulling the 
ball so that a pointer moved through a less or greater segment of a circle. 
This contrivance has been greatly improved. The pointer now remains 
at the place on the scale where the pull breaks the silk, and hence fixes 
the record of strength. The whole instrument is far more compact than 
formerly ; it is usually accompanied with a winding-machine, and the two 
together occupy a box less than a cubic foot in size. This box forms an 
indispensable part of the equipment of the traveling agent of a sewing-silk 
manufacturer. 

The sewing-machine was the means of a revolution in this branch of 
business. The consumption of thread of all kinds has been enormously 
increased by that invention, and sewing-silk shared in the enlarged de- 
mand. But when sewing-machines were first introduced, the silk thread 
then made was not specially adapted for use upon them. The shuttle of 
the machine did not always pass through the loop that was carried down 
by the needle, and hence a stitch would be dropped at intervals. At 
length, after many experiments, the discovery was made that this defect 
could be obviated by making the thread in a different way. The newly- 



1 6 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

invented thread, which serves its purpose perfectly, was denominated 
•'machine-twist, - ' and it still retains the name, which is sometimes 
abbreviated to "twist." 

The distinction between "sewing-silk"' and "twist" is of kind as well 
as of degree. Sewing-silk, often designated simply as "sewings," con- 
sists of two threads twisted from left to right ; that is, it has the twist of a 
risrht-handed screw. Machine-twist is made of three threads twisted from 
right to left, and is usually of a harder, closer twist than sewings. The 
latter may be put up either in skeins or on spools ; machine-twist is 
always spooled. While sewing-silk cannot well be used for the sewing- 
machine, "twist" can be employed for a great variety of purposes besides 
that for which it was devised ; it has taken the place of sewings to a con- 
siderable extent, and this substitution is still going on in different manu- 
factures. Merchant-tailors and other makers of clothing are now almost 
the only users of skein silk. 

The real excellence of thread and its service to the consumer, depend 
in no small degree upon its regularity of size. Elsewhere in this volume 
are specified the chief causes which occasion a want of uniformity in the 
thickness of fibre of even the best raw silk. The first thing done by our 
manufacturer after opening his bales, is to sort this raw material into four 
or five lots of different sizes of fibre. To illustrate the range of variation, 
we may say that of raw silk of the finest sort, five fibres may go to make 
one of the three strands that arc put together in a thread of machine-twist ; 
while of coarser raw silk, two fibres would make the thickness of one such 
strand. If composed of thick and thin fibres mingled, the strands would 
not twist uniformly. Silk of thin fibre is comparatively the most desir- 
able. For obvious reasons, the greater the number of fibres composing a 
thread, the better it will be in respect to uniformity, roundness, smoothness, 
and probably, strength. 

After being sorted in approximate sizes by skillful hands, the thread is 
duly twisted and wound upon bobbins. By an ingenious arrangement of 
machinery that need not be described here, the thread is cut off in even 
lengths of, say 333^ yards — that is, three lengths to 1,000 yards — and 
these lengths are temporarily made into hanks, usually called "skeins," 
to be weighed or "drammed." Now comes the nicety of the business ; 
ever}' skein is weighed with the utmost accuracy, the most delicate weights 
and weighing apparatus being employed. As the skeins are weighed, 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 17 

they are sorted accordingly, upon a long series of hooks, each hook taking 
all the skeins of a given weight as registered in ounces and hundredths of 
an ounce. In adding dyestuffs, an allowance has to be made for the dif- 
ference thus occasioned in the size of the thread. Where a twist of dif- 
ferent character is to be employed, that too is to be considered as an im- 
portant element in the size produced. These allowances, in the best fac- 
tories, are not mere guess-work or rule of thumb ; they are absolutely cal- 
culated on mathematical principles. 

As was before stated, the consumer of the silk gets the benefit of all 
this sedulous care. The reason why two large knots are usually to be 
found in each spool of a thousand yards of otherwise perfect sewing 
silk or " twist," will now be apparent; they join the skeins. It would 
be far easier for the manufacturer to make each spool-full without a knot ; 
but then the thread of a single spool would itself, probably, be of uneven 
thickness. 

Finally, the spooled silk is put up in one of two grand divisions ; either 
as yard-goods or as ounce-goods. In general it may be stated that the 
yard-goods are sold by the yard, irrespective of weight. These constitute 
the majority of the spools sold at retail by dry goods and fancy goods 
dealers. The ounce-goods are sold by weight, which is stated on the 
spools in ounces and ounce-fractions ; the thread is mostly used for 
manufacturing purposes ; and the makers of shoes, corsets and clothing 
prefer silk thus put up, because it is on large spools that do not have to 
be so frequently replaced as smaller ones, on the sewing machines. 

As long ago as 1867, one of our manufacturers conceived the idea of 
making a "pure dye " machine-twist. At that time there was no definite 
understanding between members of the trade as to what purity in dye 
should signify. All agreed that the making of heavily-loaded silk should 
not be encouraged, but there was a notion that the thread might receive 
some benefit from dye which had astringent properties, and that if less 
than a certain amount of this dye were used, the silk would be weaker. 
The reasoning which led to an opposite conclusion was founded on ob- 
serving that coarse white (silk) thread was preferred by the makers of fine 
shoes, in sewing up the backs, it being found better for this purpose, and 
more easily worked, than black silk. Evidently, more silk will be sup- 
plied to a given thickness of thread, where there is little dyestuff than 
where there is much ; the needle will be more nearly filled by silk 



1 8 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

alone, and hence the hole made by the needle (which is necessarily larger 
than the thread) will receive more silk. The hole will be better filled 
with a material which expands as silk does, than if part of the thread 
were mere dvestuff. Hence superior work might be produced with pure 
dye silk, even if the comparative strength of the thread were thrown out 
of the question. Careful experiment showed that after removing the 
natural gum from a pound of raw silk, and thus reducing it to twelve 
ounces, an ounce, or at least three-fourths of an ounce of dye must be 
used to render the silk of a satisfactory black. There is still some differ- 
ence of opinion in the trade as to whether one ounce of dye to twelve 
ounces of pure silk, or four to twelve, will give the most serviceable 
thread in proportion to cost. Of these two kinds the first is known to 
the trade as "13-oz. dye" or "pure dye;" the second as 16-oz. dye" 
or "standard." Into the merits of this controversy we do not propose 
to enter. In the "standard" goods, the dyesturT exactly replaces the 
natural gum which has to be removed before the silk will receive color, 
and it is argued that the dyed thread is therefore just as strong, weight 
for weight, as it was when raw ; perhaps even stronger, if the dye has the 
effect on silk that tanning does upon leather. 

The standard of purity of American sewing-silk has been very con- 
scientiously adhered to, and this, no doubt, largely helped in the struggle 
to obtain the market originally held by foreign thread. Quite recently 
there appeared in an English newspaper, published in a town where there 
are still the remnants of a considerable silk industry, an urgent appeal to 
the manufacturers of silk thread in that locality, pointing out the injury 
that over-weighting had done to their trade, and suggesting the adoption 
of the American standard of dye. In that essay it was indicated that 
from 18 to 25 ounces of thread were usually made in England from a 
pound of raw silk, and we may well believe that this estimate is not too 
high. Scarcely any of the European thread equals, and none of it excels 
our own, in purity. 

When manufacturers had determined to sell a pure or standard dye silk, 
a necessity arose for convincing customers of the superior value of the ar- 
ticle, since it could not be afforded for sale at the price of heavily weighted 
thread. A system was at last devised which has gradually recommended 
itself to both makers and purchasers, and is now generally accepted by the 
trade. It consists in fixing the value of any given specimen of silk accord- 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. i >j 

ing to its length and strength. It is evident, if we have a thread of such 
strength that it will pull a weight of five pounds before breaking, that the 
same thread if doubled will sustain ten pounds. Therefore 1,000 yards 
of thread of 5-pound strength is exactly equal to 500 yards of 10-pound 
strength, or to 3$$l yards of 15-pound strength, and so on. This equality 
can be easiest shown by multiplying the strength and length together, 
which will in these instances give the same product, 5,000. It is assumed 
that the figure obtained by such a multiplication will always serve as a 
ratio of value. Let us apply this ratio to fix prices for a heavily weighted 
thread 1,000 yards long; we will say, silk that has been doubled in 
weight by the process of dyeing. If it is sold by the yard, the price need 
not be changed, since the number of yards remains the same ; the maker 
gets the same sum of money and the buyer gets the same amount of real 
silk as if there had been no adulteration in the dyehouse. If the thread 
be sold by the spool, tjie bulk will be doubled by the extra dye, two 
spools will be made of it instead of one, and (estimated by the ratio) each 
spool will be worth half as much. If again the thread is sold by weight, 
only half the price can be demanded per ounce, as compared with a 
standard article. 

The trade having widely recognized the truth of this theory, it is cus- 
tomary in making a considerable sale of silk thread, for the salesman to 
bring out his little testing-machine, show the length per spool in yards and 
the strength in pounds, multiply the figures thus attained, and exhibit 
them as evidence that the goods equal or surpass a given standard. If 
two samples are to be compared, the rule of three is usually employed, 
thus : 



Sample A. 
Sample B. 



pulls. 

5 pounds. 
4 1 pounds. 



LENGTH. 

1,000 yards. 
. 950 yards. 



OFFERED PRICE. 

$8.00 per dozen spools. 
$7. 50 per dozen spools. 



Which is the cheaper ? The problem is worked as follows : 
(5x1,000) : (42x950) :: $8.00. 

This gives as an answer, $7.22; showing that the price at which the 
sample B is offered is about four per cent, higher than that of A. The 
fairness of this system is indisputable ; the purchaser certainly has no rea- 
son to complain, since, by it, a manufacturer who overweights his silk 
gets nothing for the superfluous dyestuff. Its effect is to encourage the 
making of the purest grades of silk, by securing for them a proportionate 



20 THE SILK GOODS OS AMERICA. 

price. Obviously, if loaded silk is sold at the price of that which is pure, 
the purchaser buys mere dyestuff — metallic salts — at the price of and in- 
stead of silk. In general, white and colored thread is not loaded; but 
black can be adulterated by an unscrupulous maker, to the extent of 
trebling its weight. The system of comparison above described also 
serves admirably in determining the price for thread of different degrees of 
strength and fineness. The range in this respect is very wide ; there is 
machine-twist made (for the use of harness and trunk makers, and other 
workers in leather) that will pull 30 to 35 pounds ; but its length to the 
ounce may not be more than 1 75 yards. In the other extreme, there is thread 
for stitching ladies' ties and light work in general, that will measure 3,000 
yards to the ounce, but is scarcely capable of pulling two pounds. Some 
of the consumers of machine-twist have discovered, that in an emergency, . 
they can obtain a thinner silk thread by untwisting the machine-twist, and 
using its three separate strands, after waxing them slightly. Before clos- 
ing our account of the method of testing by length and strength, we 
should mention that it does not distinguish between thread that is perfect 
in finish, color and cleanliness, and that which is in such respects inferior ; 
hence it can only apply after making allowance for any existing differences 
of that kind. 

Endeavors have been made to introduce for popular use, chemical 
methods for determining whether silk thread is heavily weighted. In the 
hands of a chemist such tests should be conclusive, but quantitative 
analysis is not easily performed by those who are unskilled in the arts of 
the laboratory. Excessive adulteration can, however, be readily detected 
by burning the thread and observing its ashes, or by rubbing it, after 
moistening, between the fingers. Less reliance can be placed in tests de- 
pending on the solubility of dyestuff in an acid. 

The colored silk thread produced here is not surpassed in delicacy, 
brilliance, and permanence of hue. The variety of tints that may be 
called for, is almost infinite, and the manufacturer is obliged to sort and 
classify different shades, with painstaking accuracy. This is, in at least 
one instance, effected on a strictly scientific basis. The text-books of 
science did not afford the data for such a classification, and the manufac- 
turer deserves credit for working out this difficult problem by his own re- 
search and study. A brilliant display of colors rendered the cases of 
sewing-silk and twist most attractive objects in the Centennial Exhibition. 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 21 

But various as may be the hues which each mill turns out in the regular 
course of work, a further variety is called for by customers who wish to 
match new or special shades of goods with similar thread. A few days 
suffice for this purpose. If we were dependent upon European mills 
for silk thread, and had to send to them to match a given shade, the pro- 
bability is that the color itself would be out of fashion before the thread 
of the required tint could be ordered, made, and imported. 

Improvements have been made from time to time in the machinery for 
producing sewings and twist. Of these we can only offer a brief notice, 
since a technical description might be wearisome. There is a useful 
contrivance called a " stretcher,'" which pulls out the component strands 
of a thread so that they are brought to an even thickness. This is 
of importance, because if there is one strand thicker than another, it will 
"ride"'' in twisting, and the thread will be defective. It is claimed by 
those who use the stretcher that no thread made with it is of second (or 
inferior) quality, so far as the work of the mill is concerned. Before the 
stretcher was used, a considerable amount of labor had to be employed in 
cutting out threads of irregular thickness and tying them on bobbins 
where they would be better matched ; all this, it is said, is now avoided. 
The "cleaner" in ordinary use consists of two edges of metal, between 
which the thread is passed, to catch fluff and slugs. There is a new 
cleaner, in which the thread^ goes around a series of spindles, so as to rub 
against itself, and by such friction get rid of its superfluities. There are 
measuring machines attached to various parts of the machinery ; one of 
these, in spooling ounce goods, determines exactly the length of every 
ounce of thread ; so that the silk on each spool is of definite size, length 
and weight. 

The spools themselves are greatly improved. One manufacturer, who 
makes his own spools, believes that he can identify them anywhere, without 
looking at their labels, as he claims that there is a certain finish and 
smoothness about them which no other spools possess. Near the factory 
there are hundreds of cords of white birch stacked under cover, to dry. 
The wood comes from the forests of Maine, and requires one or two 
years of seasoning before it can be converted into spools. Printing upon 
the spools instead of upon labels to be attached to them, is now generally 
preferred. Three or four different patents have been issued for inventions 
to meet this object. A machine costing $650 to build will print about 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

ico spools in a minute : they pass through a hopper, are centered by a rod y 
and then the printing-dies stamp in the lettering. Good spools are a. 

necessity to secure the best work from the sewing-machine ; if, for 
instance, the wood shrinks after the thread is wound upon it, the delivery 
will be irregular. The superiority of spools made in this country has 
attracted the attention of European manufacturers, and some of them 
have spools for their own goods made and printed here. 

A curious custom has grown up in the sewings and twist trade, of 
presenting cabinets to large buyers of goods. These structures are often 
elegant and costly : they are used to display the goods, and are elaborately 
made of tine woods and plare glass, with numerous drawers and compart- 
ments. Some of the handsomest have cost 8550 apiece, and several have 
been presented that were worth S250 to S3C0 each ; a $50 one is not at all 
unusual. These values, it will be observed, are the cost of cabinets to- 
the silk manufacturer, who orders a number at a time ; a single one made 
to order would be a much more expensive piece of furniture. There is 
a tacit understanding with the recipient of such a gift that he will continue 
to buy goods from the manufacturer who presented it ; to use it for goods 
from any other mill would be deemed dishonorable. The cabinet is 
given on the first sale to a new customer, and its value may be as much 
as ten per cent of the goods purchased on that occasion ; but the cost of 
these presents on the part of a large manufacturer is not estimated as over 
1 J per cent, of his total sales. Nevertheless, the burden of this custom 
is a heavy one ; a single firm estimates that it has expended $150,000 in 
such gifts. The practice is not wholly indefensible, since the goods 
would in any case have had to be put up attractively, and the cabinet, in 
a large dry goods house, serves the purposes of an advertisement There 
are many indications that extravagance in cafjinets has passed its highest 
point, and the custom might be entirely abolished if manufacturers would 
make and keep an agreement on the subject 

The competition of the makers of silk thread is, however, exceed- 
ingly keen, and agreements between them are short-lived. Although, 
they have entire control of the home market, and have excluded the 
foreign rivals who once had possession of the field, our manufacturers 
have never been able to obtain high prices for their goods, or secure more 
than a slender margin of profit. The consumer has had the chief benefit 
from even- improvement in this branch of industry, and prices are lower 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 13 

at present than they have ever been before. Small as arc the profits, they 
seem sufficient to turn the mill-wheels. The large concerns say that the 
only reason they can do business at a profit, is because their trade is 
extensive and varied enough to enable them to work up all their material 
into the sizes that the raw silk is best suited for, instead of being obliged 
to average it in favor of sizes that are most in demand ; thus they make 
a more uniform thread, and to better advantage, than where the sizes are 
not matched so accurately. On the other hand, the proprietors of the 
small mills claim that by more careful economy, lighter expenses, and 
less of costly display, they can compete with their mighty rivals. 

When it is considered that sewings and twist are, in the main, staple 
articles, little dependent upon changes of fashion ; that the duties upon, 
them are one-third less than on silk fabrics ; and that their raw material 
— which is the larger part of their cost — is brought hither from the other 
side of the world, it seems surprising that European manufacturers, with 
far greater advantages for making the goods, and with a long-established 
reputation for their sewing silks in this country, should have utterly lost 
our market. But nobody who compared the displays of our own and the 
foreign spooled silk at the Centennial Exhibition, could help noticing the 
inferior appearance of the European goods. They looked coarse. The 
colors were out of date, or wanting in taste. The thread showed the need 
of the modern improvements. Probably the chief reason why Europeans: 
have in this instance lost their trade here, is because of the greater quick- 
ness of our people in adopting improved methods of manufacture, such 
as, for instance, making " twist " for the sewing-machine. Changes that 
might seem insignificant in a coarser kind of industry*, in this become im- 
portant ; an alteration of method or machinery that prevents a little waste 
may make just the difference of profit or loss in the production of a mill. 
Our manufacturers use better raw material, adulterate it less, and employ 
better machinery in making the thread than ever before. The writer is. 
assured by one of our largest concerns that they arc preparing to sell 
American machine-twist in Europe, being convinced that this can be done 
at a profit. 



^4 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 




IV. 
Weaving — P}'eparaton ' Processes. 

MERICAN manufacturers are obliged to use the best 
of raw silk, as a simple measure of economy. To 
explain this singular fact, we must give some details. 
The material which comes to this country from China, 
Japan, Italy or France, for the use of our manufac- 
turers, is known as "raw-silk.'' It has been reeled 
from cocoons, and perhaps re-reeled, before it was 
started on its ocean voyage. There are great differ- 
ences in the quality of cocoons, dependent upon the breed of the silk- 
worms, the climate in which they are reared, the food and care they 
receive, and other circumstances affecting their health. The irregu- 
larities thus occasioned in the quality of the silk may be largeh avoided 
in the countries where the silk is reeled, if the cocoons are very carefully 
sorted before reeling, so that all of each grade of silk shall be brought 
together. There is found on the outside of every cocoon a considerable 
amount of light thread, containing more or less roughness and impurity, 
and in general, unfit for reeling. This ought to be stripped off entirely, 
and accounted as "waste silk/'* but some of it occasionally finds its way 
to the reel, in inferior grades of the raw material. When a filament 
that is fit for the reel has been reached, it is found that this filament is 
itself uneven in strength and thickness, the exterior layers being weaker 
and thinner than those nearer the insect. It is the business of the ex- 
perienced reeler to put a thread of an even thickness and strength upon 
his reel. To do this, he may hava to unite four, five or more filaments, 
from different cocoons, in a single thread ; the number of filaments de- 
pending on their comparative thickness and the size of thread required. 
So much, indeed, depends upon the skill of the reeler, that we may be 
perfectly certain that a careless or inexperienced hand will produce thread 
which varies in thickness so as to be of little value, even if it does not 
contain dirt, rough knots, or tangle. At the best filatures, all that is 
possible is done, by watchfulness and care, to avoid these defects, and 
produce thread of approximate Uniformity. 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 25 

"I date,'' says one of our manufacturer.;, " the first great step in re- 
cent improvements, at the opening of the overland route, which brought 
us raw silk direct from Asia. Before that time we got from there only 
the silk which Europe rejected — the refuse of the markets. Since that 
route was opened, we have had the choice of the market, and now the 
very best comes to this country, 

The contrast between the raw silk used here and that which serves for 
making the same kind of goods in Europe, is very striking. What our 
manufacturers would regard as " poor silk," worth perhaps one dollar per 
pound less than the best, would be accounted very fair silk for deliver}' to 
the European weaver. The reason on the part of our manufacturer for 
choosing the best raw material, at a necessarily higher price, may be very 
easily stated ; his experience has taught him that the best is cheapest. 
All the processes from first to last by which an inferior article can be made 
to appear equal to that of a higher grade, are costly in labor. 

In any case there are about a dozen distinct processes which raw silk 
must undergo to prepare it for the loom. We will name these in their 
order : 



For Organzinc. 
Assorting. 


For Tram. 
Assorting. 


For both Organzine 
and Train. 


Winding. 


Winding. 




Cleaning. 


Cleaning. 




Spinning. 


Doubling. 




Doubling. 


Spinning. 




Twisting. 


Dramming 




Dramming. 











Dyeing. 


Winding. 


Winding. 




Cleaning. 


Cleaning. 




Doubling. 


Doubling. 




Warping. 


Quilling. 




Picking. 




Weaving. 



In each of these processes except dyeing, imperfections in the thread 
cause loss of time and material. Suppose, for instance, that the raw silk, 
as imported, is uneven. That is to say, the continuous thread which is 



26 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

to be wound upon a spool, is found to be of irregular thickness as it un- 
winds from the reel. Such a thread is stronger in some parts and weaker 
in others. What happens ? Probably the thread breaks in the first wind- 
ing from the reel. The winding machinery stops automatically, and per- 
haps a portion of the thread which is weaker than the rest has to be pulled 
< >ff and thrown aside as waste silk. Then a knot must be tied, and the 
winding goes on again. But if the raw silk is very irregular in thickness, 
a similar accident can happen in any of the subsequent processes ; a loom 
may have to be suddenly stopped ; it is always the same story — breakage, 
stoppage, waste of time (labor) and of material. The loss of time, when 
machinery, running at high speed, has to be stopped, becomes a serious 
matter, from the mere fact that there is no production during the stoppage. 
" It costs," said a manufacturer, ''fully five times as much to tie a knot 
in this country as in France.'' 

To eliminate, so far as is possible, defects of this class, silk is subjected 
to a series of sortings between the steps of its progress from the cocoon 
to the loom. The importance of the correct sorting of raw silk is so 
great that a considerable portion of the recent improvement in our manu- 
factured goods is traceable to the fact of our receiving from Asia at the 
present time stock that is more carefully assorted in respect to sizes. In 
former times there would be found all sorts of sizes in a package of raw 
silk, and almost the only distinction set forth between the parcels was, 
that one was for ' ' tram ' ' and the other for ' ' organzine. ' ' (The warp 
threads are organzine ; the woof or ' ' filling " is tram. ) At the present 
day it is recognized by raw silk producers that if the material is not 
properly assorted, it is not fit for the American market. Our manufac- 
turers also take more pains than formerly, to make their own sorting of 
the raw material fairly accurate, previous to the first winding. Moreover, 
at a later stage, but before they are dyed, the threads are weighed with ex- 
actness by a mechanical process called "dramming,'' and sorted again. 
The precise weight which a piece of goods will have when it is woven, is 
calculated and known beforehand. By means of such care, the manu- 
facture is conducted with greater economy ; the consumer reaps the 
benefit in goods that are better because more uniform, and at the same 
time cheaper. 

One of the preparatory processes that precede weaving, has been men- 
tioned as "picking." This consists of spreading out every thread of the 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 



*7 



warp separately, examining it with the utmost minuteness, and removing 
all knots, slugs and irregularities. A large number of slowly moving 
threads are spread out like a huge fan, while keen eyes are bent upon 
them, and nimble fingers seize and extract the imperfections. The con- 
trast between higher and lower grades of silk becomes very apparent 
when the threads are thus spread out. In the very best silk, scarcely 
anything like lumps on the thread will be visible to an untrained eye ; in 
inferior silk, such defects are numerous and of comparatively large size. 
In Europe, where weaving is mostly done by hand, picking is part of the 
business of the weaver ; he stops his loom at any moment to remove a 
knot or slug from the thread as it is woven. He is expected to turn out 
goods free from defects of this character. The system here is entirely 
different, and it is necessary to have all the threads of warp and woof as 
perfect as possible, so that there shall be no stoppage in the operation of 
the power-loom. 



28 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 




V. 

Black Dress Goods. 

NLY three years ago, one of our oldest manufacturers 
made the following statement in the course of a conver- 
sation : "I scarcely hope to live to see plain black 
dress silks made in this country. There is no pros- 
pect of it at present. A great improvement in our 
manufacture would first be required, and I do not 
think it is possible with our comparatively high-priced 
labor." 

The earlier successes that paved the way to the present manufacture of 
these fabrics, were won — with some exceptions — in producing goods of 
lio-hter hue and varied texture. It seems at first sight a paradox that 
plain black dress silks should be harder to make than the most elabo- 
rately figured goods. The reason is, chiefly, that the plain fabrics show 
every defect ; and trifling variations in the mere thickness of a thread, 
which would be quite imperceptible in goods that are overlaid with 
ornament, become strikingly apparent in an article of uniform sur- 
face. To secure a perfect equality in the threads, every- one of them 
must undergo minute supervision ; and this cannot be effected by 
machinery alone, it requires skilled labor — the most costly thing in 
America. 

A reduction in the cost of raw silk might be expected to lower the prices 
of imported goods, and thus make a competition with them more diffi- 
cult than before. But in fact the reduced cost of raw material has 
enabled our manufacturers to make experiments that formerly were too 
expensive to be tried on a large scale. Their success with a great variety 
of new goods had already given them means and confidence for fresh 
ventures. They had learned the conditions under which to use the 
power-loom to the utmost advantage, and the machinery as well as the 
processes had been greatly improved . One of the most curious and im- 
portant results attained by the practical experiments of manufacture, is 
that because of the high price of labor here, it is most profitable to use 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 29 

the bet of raw material ; an J hence a reduction in the cost of that 
material proves a more important factor in the total cost of the goods, 
than would be the case if inferior stock were employed. 

Our factories have gradually become better equipped and better organ- 
ized : while at the same time their owners have learned new art. But this 
is by no means all. The operatives themselves have been learning, and 
have become — unquestionably — far more skillful. They waste less. We 
are assured that each loom now turns out one-third more of finished goods 
than it did a few years ago. The saving is effected in two directions ; 
less time is consumed and less silk is wasted. This is probably the chief 
cause why some of our mills are now making fine dress silks at a profit. 

There have been, however, very marked improvements in the ma- 
chinery used in silk manufacture. Concerning these, we need not enter 
into technical detail. Most of them consist more in developing the 
capacity of machinery for various kinds of work, than in inventions 
wholly new. More important than all else is the substitution of the 
power-loom for the older method of weaving. The product of the 
steam-driven machine is, of course, mechanically accurate. When all 
the work of weaving was done by hand, labor dictated its own price and 
retarded development in this manufacture. The business of the silk 
mill was then, to a certain extent, at the mercy of its operatives. Now, 
the employer finds himself at liberty to make goods to suit his customers, 
and as he can calculate the cost with greater certainty, he is encouraged 
to attempt improvements in his fabrics. 

The system of manufacture in Europe is entirely different from that 
which has grown up in this country. Judged from our point of view the 
European manufacturer seems rather to be a mere contractor. He buys- 
tram and organzine — i. e. , filling and warp — which have been made at a 
separate factory. He sends this material to another establishment, a dye- 
house. Finally, he puts it out to weavers who have looms at their own 
homes. He has no factory and no machinery. Under such circum- 
stances it is not surprising that there is little improvement in machinery 
and methods, from year to year. Our manufacturers have been obliged, 
on the contrary, to concentrate the work, so as to keep every portion of 
it under direct supervision. In several of our larger silk mills all the 
different processes referred to are conducted beneath a single roof ; so 
that the raw silk becomes finished goods under the eye of the manufac- 



3 q THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

turer. In some instances these mills have within their walls, rooms pro- 
vided with all tools and machinery for their own repairing and carpenter- 
in^ work ; a few make nearly all their own machines. There is a marked 
disposition to try improvements in this country, and it is the general 
experience that the very best machinery, though at first far more costly, 
is in the end decidedly the cheapest. 

The European manufacturer derives certain advantages from his system. 
A considerable part of his product is made to order, thus relieving him of 
the risk of originating goods of new design which may or may not find 
favor in the market. He is not obliged to start with a great outlay for 
mill and machinery ; this leaves him free to employ his capital in pur- 
chasing varns, and he usually buys and stores in his warehouse enough to 
supply his weavers during an entire season. It seems evident, however, 
that the division of the processes between three or four separate establish- 
ments, throwsters, dyers, weavers, and, probably, finishers, must imply 
an added cost in a profit to each. The American system is largely a con- 
sequence of substituting machinery- for manual labor. The work of the 
power-loom is definite and positive ; it is not liable to defects such as 
happen to hand-made goods if the weaver's hand is unsteady in throwing 
the shuttle, or if he is careless in using the number of picks required by 
the pattern. Of course such defects can be to a great extent avoided by 
a very careful inspection of the fabric as it comes from the weaver's hands ; 
but there is certainly room for the belief of our manufacturers that the 
power-loom goods are more serviceable to consumers because more 
uniform and therefore more durable. Many minor improvements in the 
machinery have also contributed to this result within a very few years. 

It is estimated that from a fourth to a third of the plain silks and a 
much larger proportion of the brocade silks which are consumed in this 
country, are now made here. As most of our manufacturers did not un- 
dertake in earnest the work of making broad silks more than four or five 
years ago, this may be regarded as fairly rapid progress. The advance in 
this branch of manufacture within three years is greater than in any other 
department of our silk industry. The marked feature in the production 
of these goods has been their comparative freedom from adulteration by 
heavy weighting in the dyehouse. Several of our mills are winning for 
their goods an admirable reputation in this particular. The constant 
effort of European makers has been to meet a falling market with fabrics 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 3 1 

that appeared as good as formerly, but could be sold cheaper because 
really inferior. Here, for the sake of obtaining a foothold in the market, 
it was necessary to make goods as free from weighting as possible. The 
adulteration is usually performed in dyeing the yarns, before they 
are woven, and it is fully within bounds to state that all European broad 
black silks, with the exception of perhaps a very few of the highest priced, 
are thus doubled or trebled in weight. When heavily loaded, the fabric 
gives little satisfaction to the consumer. Sometimes the superfluous dye- 
stuff shows itself after a few days' wear, in spots and blotches ; sometimes 
the dress begins to look greasy or rusty ; before long it frays and breaks 
in the folds, and then the ruin is complete. It had become a proverb 
that " buying an imported silk is like purchasing a ticket in a lottery." 

A humorous article in the Hartford Courant, recently described ' ' The 
Black Art in France, " as follows : 

The principal substance used for weighting the silk is iron. It is repeatedly bathed 
in nitrate of iron until it acquires the desired weight of that metal. Then it gets a blue 
tint from prussiate of potash, and then several baths of gambier and a treatment with 
.acetate of iron. At this stage the silk is lustreless and dead ; but never say dye (enough) 
is the rule, and so it is made bright and lively by a logwood bath and large quantities 
of soap are added. Now comes the important question, whether the silk shall be of the 
.soft and satin sort or stiff and rustling. For the former it gets a little oil and soda ; 
for the latter, acid. 

And then we have our finished goods consisting, to summarize, of iron, soap, 
gambier, potash, logwood, oil, soda, etc., etc., with silk. The two cardinal defects in 
black silk are the "wearing shiny" and the cracking. The former comes from the 
natural action of the soap and alkali, which together develop a sort of grease under 
friction ; the cracking is simply the inability of the little silk to carry its great load of 
the other products of industry that are spread upon it. It is asking too much to de- 
mand that the few strands shall act as iron mine, soap factory, and chemical laboratory 
all at once and stand the wear of practical use besides. These are requirements before 
which the English attempt to make a grocery store out of a shirt pattern is a simple and 
•ordinary matter. 

Under the French treatment of silk a "little will go a great way" undoubtedly, 
for it goes thousands of miles — to the American market ; but it is about time the women 
of the country should know what they are buying when they buy these goods. Those 
women, who persist in believing they are buying tin when they get sheet iron with an 
infinitesimal coating of tin over it, and consider themselves cheated when the iron be- 
gins to show, may still believe they get silk when they get this mass of black and mel- 
ancholy dye-stuffs, mourning as it were for a lost silk-worm ; but, so long as they do, 
they are doomed to discover that black silks will not wear well. The iron will prevail. 

Most of our manufacturers claim that their broad silks are of the highest 
standard of purity. They invite a comparison on this point. We quote 
from the instructions to buyers which accompany some samples : 



32 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

" Please compare this silk with the best French goods, by raveling 
out a few of the threads from each. Test their comparative smooth- 
ness and strength by passing through and breaking over the fingers. 
In heavily dyed silk the particles of dye will make the threads feeL 
rough and lumpy to the touch. Then by wetting the lint from each 
separately, the goods weighted by dye will be readily distinguished 
by the dye coming out under pressure. 

" Another simple but effective test of purity, is to burn a small 
quantity of the threads. Pure silk will instantly crisp, leaving only 
a pure charcoal ; heavily dyed silk will smoulder, leaving a yellow, 
greasy ash." 

Perhaps the most convenient way of applying the first of these tests, is 
to chew the filling thread of the silk to a pulp, and then to squeeze it in 
a white handkerchief. But though convenient, the method is objection- 
able as a matte of taste, where weighted goods are thus tried ; though a 
person in the habit of wiping his pen in his mouth might not find the 
loaded silk disagreeable. 

American dress goods cannot be expected to win full reputation on 
their merit at first, since they are not made to wear out in one or two' sea- 
sons. But already they are acquiring a very good name. A few weeks 
ago a lady was trying to match a very old and very excellent piece of im- 
ported black silk, at one of our largest dry goods houses. The salesman, 
after carefully examining the sample, expressed a doubt about being able 
to match it. " It is first-rate silk," he said, " and I think it is of Amer- 
ican make ; it is better than the imported." One of our more sanguine 
manufacturers declares his belief that within ten years the dress silks of 
this country will bear a higher reputation than those made anywhere else 
in the world. 






THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 



33 




VI. 

Various Piece- Goods. 

UCH of what has been said of the improvement in 
plain black dress goods applies also to a great variety 
of more ornate and varied fabrics. The production 
of figured dress silks has attained large development 
within a very few years. In these articles, raw ma- 
terial usually bears a greater proportion to labor 
than in thinner fabrics. Hence in the history of 
improved manufacture, these goods began to be 
extensively made here before the plainer ones were so generally attempted 
by our weavers. The designs are mostly original, and rarely take any- 
thing more than a mere suggestion from abroad ; they change with every 
season's fashion, both as to color and pattern. Most of the alterations 
in design involve a considerable expense in adjusting Jacquard ma- 
chinery ; they are made almost without exception on power-looms. No 
mere description can do justice to the beauty and variety of these fabrics. 
Owing to improvements in manufacture and the excellence of the raw 
material, they are firm and serviceable, and at the same time marvellously 
cheap. They are adapted to a taste which eschews everything gaudy and 
extreme, while delighting in delicacy of design and purity of color. The 
earlier Jacquard machines used by our manufacturers in producing these 
goods, were imported from England or France ; the mechanism now in 
use is wholly made here, and is especially adapted to our requirements. 
The Jacquard machines remain the same in principle, but we are now 
able to run them more smoothly, to apply them to more intricate pat- 
terns, and to obtain from them a higher speed. 

In producing grenadines and satins, the improvements have been 
equally striking. Goods are made which combine features that were once 
entirely distinct. Thus, for instance, at first sight it would seem that 
nothing could be more widely separate in manufacture than the open web 
of grenadine — a fabric which might be likened to lace — and satin, whose 
smooth, impervious surface might class it with close-woven cloth. But 



34 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

che ingenuity of the weaver has long since bridged the gulf between these 
fabrics, and produced grenadine with satin stripes. Then came a further 
combination, adding a brocaded pattern which permeates both the net- 
work of the grenadine and the sheeny surface of the satin. The effect of 
these and other combinations is in general to give "richness" to the 
fabric, and perhaps to justify a remark which foreigners have made as a 
criticism — that "'Americans don't seem to be afraid of their silk." 
Neither the operatives nor the machinery of former years could have pro- 
duced the finer grades of damasse dress goods, and the combinations of 
gros-grain, satin, brocade and grenadine which may now be required by 
fashion. To classify these various combinations and describe the differ- 
ent results separately, is, if not outside of the scope of the present work, at 
all events beyond the ability of its writer. 

In some of the older families of this country there are preserved a few 
specimens of early attempts at making satin goods from home-raised silk. 
A comparison of those relics with the products of the present day brings 
the improvement into clearer light. The thread which makes the surface 
of satin or brocade, is now more thoroughly tied down than formerly ; in 
the best goods it no longer "floats " when the fingers are drawn across it. 
A solidity and evenness has been conferred on the fabric, which renders 
it at once more compact and more durable. While they were in fashion, 
some excellent upholstery satins were made here and found ready sale. 
They attracted attention from foreign visitors — experts — at the Cen- 
tennial Exhibition, and were highly commended in respect to color and 
finish. These were decidedly " broad goods, " being fully sixty-four 
inches in width. 

We should like at this point to say something about velvets made in 
this country ; but at present it would have to be as brief an account as 
the famous chapter on the ' ' Snakes of Ireland : There are none. " 
A few velvets have been made here at intervals, and in different localities. 
Good judges have spoken well of these specimens, but the manufacture 
has not yet been found profitable. There seems to be an opportunity 
not yet seized, for the invention of labor-saving machinery in the produc- 
tion of silk velvets, since the old methods of making them are slow and 
very cumbrous. 

The process which is called "finishing" or "re-finishing" is of great 
importance in preparing piece-goods, and is, as its name implies, the final 



THE SILlv GOODS OF AMERICA. 33 

operation. It is itself a distinct branch of business, and requires special 
machinery as well as knowledge and experience. The " re-finisher'*' has 
succeeded in demonstrating to most of our smaller weaving concerns, and 
also to some of the largest, that this work can be better done in an es- 
tablishment devoted to the purpose, than in the regular silk mill. 

Heavy calendering machines and hydraulic presses of 300 tons'" power 
are used in re-finishing silk fabrics. The pressure has to be variously ap- 
plied, according to the effect required, and the calender rolls can be grad- 
uated from a squeeze of five pounds to one of 60,000. There are some 
goods that have to go through hot rolls and some through cold ; and dif- 
ferences in the surfaces of the rolls may convert plain silks into striped 
ones, or change them to moire antique. Brocades, fancy silks and satins 
must undergo the re-finishing process, as well as gros-grain. Indeed, the 
effect is more striking with figured than with plain goods. A brocade 
flower, for instance, in passing through the proper amount of pressure, gains 
a definiteness of outline and a pictorial character that were previously 
wanting. Satin requires the highest pressure to bring out its full lustre, 
and though the most difficult of fabrics to manage in finishing, it best re- 
pays the labor. With many fabrics, a liquid dressing has to be applied to 
the surface, and in some instances a fire-box must follow the dressing in 
order to dry the liquid so quickly that it will not strike through to the 
other side. 

The re-finishing business began with imported goods. These are 
sometimes damaged on their voyage, and require to have their freshness 
renewed. A more frequent occurrence is that the fabrics need to be mod- 
ified so as to meet a change of fashion. In some seasons ladies have 
wanted their dresses to have a certain crispness, and then they required 
"hard silk ;" at other times only the silks which feel softest in handling, 
could be sold. Either of these results can be reached in the finishing 
processes, which have immensely improved within a very few years. Amer- 
ican silks are found to need a treatment different from that which is suit- 
able for imported goods, and the best method could only be ascertained 
by new experiment. The results now will bear comparison with foreign 
work, and a business has been created which will, if it continues, justify 
its experiments and outlay. 

No difficulty is found in producing in this country excellent marcelines, 
florentines, serges, satin de chine, and the various fabrics used for linings. 



3 6 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

Only a small portion of the thread is floated in serges, but it adds to the 
variety in their colors and patterns. Promptness in adopting any new- 
ideas as to the style of these goods has given our manufacturers some 
advantages over their foreign rivals, but the chief point made is, that the 
American linings wear longer, because they are of purer silk. This is 
another instance where excessive loading with dye-stuffs and the use of 
inferior raw silk, on the part of European manufacturers, have so hurt a 
trade as actually to reduce the consumption. There is now, however, a 
marked revival of confidence in respect to such fabrics made here ; and 
as to those which are imported, European dyers have offered to stipulate 
for goods to be guaranteed as of equal purity with the American. 

One of the evidences of deterioration in foreign silks which is most 
generally recognized by the public, is the difficulty of obtaining a silk 
umbrella that has lasting qualities. The rapidity with which these 
articles split in the fold and resolve themselves into sticks and rags, has 
been of late years quite abnormal. But there is reason now to hope for 
better things. At least two of our manufacturers have successfully un- 
dertaken to solve the problem of making umbrella silk that will last two 
years or more — instead of as many months — with ordinary usage. The 
fabric which seems best adapted for this purpose is known to the 
trade as ' ' levantine, " and is specifically different from taffetas and serges ; 
from the latter it may be distinguished by the absence of stripes in the 
warp. American weather is rather hard on umbrellas, but some of them, 
made here from ferule to handle, have survived the equinoctial storms of 
successive years, and are still fit for service. 



8 



'% 




THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. ^ 

VII. 

Spun Silk. 

HERE are two distinct methods of treating the product 
of the silkworm. If the filament of the cocoon can 
be unwound from it as a continuous *ibre, it is reeled, 
and is known in commerce as "raw silk." If for any 
reason the filament of the cocoon cannot be reeled, it 
must be spun. The raw material which is to be 
manufactured into spun silk, bears the general name 
of "waste silk." 

Some popular misapprehension has arisen from the use of the term 
""waste/' as applied to this raw material. It suggests the erroneous 
notion that the foundation of spun silk goods is a kind of shoddy. 
Nothing could be farther from the fact. Shoddy is a material obtained 
L>y tearing into fibres, g£ods previously manufactured. That process is 
not applicable to silk goods, and no shoddy is made from them. After 
raw silk has once been twisted into a thread, it cannot be torn asunder 
and produce anything of value. 

Actual fibre is required for spun silk, though not of such length and 
-continuity as that which can be reeled. Even if the manufacturer of 
spun silk makes use of a low grade of "waste," he is not able to spin 
from it anything but the fibre, and the simple result when he uses inferior 
stock, is that he must take a much larger quantity of it to provide a 
given amount of useful silk. The residue, which has no fibre, is of no 
service in manufacture, and is all loss. 

There are several sources of so-called "waste" silk. Perforated 
cocoons furnish the chief supply. These have been pierced by the 
moth, which exudes a fluid that softens the thread at one end of the cocoon 
so that there the insect can push its way out. There are also cocoons of 
irregular formation, from which the silk cannot be wound. Another 
large source of supply is known as "filature waste" or "frisons. " This 
-consists chiefly of the tangled thread or floss on the outside of the 
cocoons, and the waste made in winding from them. Lastly, there is 
" mill waste, " which is raw silk more or less broken or tangled in the 
•earlier operations of the silk mill. The only essential feature which dis- 
tinguishes waste silk from other raw silk is its want of continuity of fibre. 



3 3 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

which prevents its being reeled. It has to be straightened and ungum- 
med, and then is carded and spun by methods similar to those employed 
with flax and cotton. When this is done, the spun silk is of about the 
same value as reeled silk in the gum. Waste silk, indeed, kept its. 
price during the whole of the past year, during a period in which reeled 
silk fell in value at least 25 per cent. 

The processes of manufacture in spun silk are just as delicate and 
trustworthy as those of cotton spinning. The material passes through a. 
series of different machines, some of them man-els of ingenuity ; and 
when ready for spinning, looks like the whitest of combed fleeces, 
except that it has a brilliant lustre, similar to that of spun glass. It i& 
then of such perfect uniformity that the thread to be made from it can- 
be produced with absolute mathematical accuracy, of any required size. 
This uniformity, which can always be depended upon, gives more dura- 
bility to a fabric than if it were wholly made of reeled silk. 

Great improvements have been made in the manufacture of spun silk, 
so that the goods are better than formerly, in every respect. The best 
effects are obtained by using the lustrous reeled silk to give the surface of 
the fabric, and the spun silk to give the body. In some European goods 
that have recently come to this market, the arrangement is reversed ; 
they have a spun warp and reeled filling. The object in these cases is 
to secure a dead surface with a lustrous figure ; and a stiffness of fabric is. 
also attained, which is supposed by purchasers to be an evidence of good 
silk. These fabrics supply a fresh indication that spun and reeled silk. 
are more and more becoming interchangeable factors in the manufac- 
ture ; a condition to which their near approach in values contributes. 

Since almost every variety of fabric that is made with reeled silk has its. 
counterpart in articles more or less composed of spun silk, it follows that 
the direction which fashion gives, controls both equally. The novelties 
called forth by a season's transient demand must be produced in time for 
that occasion, by the spun silk manufacturer. For this purpose, however, 
he does not copy foreign designs ; at most those can only offer to him 
general suggestions. It has been found, in fact, that copying is rarely 
profitable ; the most marked success has frequently attended the produc- 
tion of purely original designs. The risk of such novelties falls wholly 
upon the manufacturer ; he can only rely on his own judgment and his 
general knowledge of the tendency of the prevailing fashion. 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 3, 

It is claimed for fabrics partly or wholly made of spun silk, that they 
fill a place of their own in the market. They supply a cheap and at the 
same time a serviceable material. The purchaser gets silk that is pure — 
not loaded with dye-stuff. There are only two methods of making very 
cheap silk fabrics ; one is to weight the material w r ith chemicals that wilL 
give it weight and showiness in general, hiding its want of actual silk. 
Such goods give little satisfaction to the wearer. Their defects soon be- 
come apparent ; "there is no wear in them."' The other method of 
making cheap silks is to substitute spun for reeled silk. By such means 
goods can be made that are fairly within the reach of slender purses, and 
will do good service to the wearer ; goods that can be sold as cheaply as 
are the weighted fabrics. Spun silk can be adulterated with heavy dyes 
-quite as easily as reeled silk ; suffice it that such is not the practice here. 
All the spun silk fabrics made in this country are what are classed as 
"pure dye ;" the pound of raw material coming from the dyer's hands 
with no additional weight except what is requisite to give a good color 
and body to the fabric. 

The improvements that have been made in the management of spun 
silk in manufacture are such that its comparative want of lustre is far less 
apparent than was the case a few years ago. Especially is this true of the 
products of the Jacquard looms, the brocades and damasse silks in 
general. White and very light brocades, such as are suitable for ball and 
wedding dresses, are among the most recent and ambitious efforts of this 
manufacture. They are of absolutely pure silk, and are so lustrous that 
even an expert would not be able to distinguish them from reeled silk 
fabrics, except by a critical examination. The advantage to the purchaser 
of such goods may be briefly stated : in appearance and actual worth for 
wear, they are equal to brocades that are selling at $3 to $4 per yard ; 
they are sold at half those prices. Fashion seems now tending toward 
heavily flowered brocaded silk, such as used to adorn our grandmothers. 

A feature of this branch of business is the production of printed goods. 
In this the improvement of recent years is very striking ; satins, for 
instance, printed in colors, have to the eye the same richness of effect as 
if they were made by the more costly process of the Jacquard looms. 
In Europe, printing is done with little blocks, a few inches square, which 
are slowly and more or less imperfectly used in hand-work. Here, 
ingenious machinery is employed, printing many colors at once. A. 



40 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

machine for this purpose requires a special steam-engine to drive it, in 
order to have it under absolutely accurate control as to speed, pressure 
and registry. Patterns that cannot be perfectly matched by hand, may 
be turned out faultlessly by such machinery. 

Ribbons known to the trade as ' ' schappe, " which are wholly of spun 
silk, were first made in this country. Now, they are largely produced 
abroad, the Swiss giving us the compliment of imitating our designs and 
labels. The foreign ribbons make a good appearance, but their stock is 
inferior and they do not wear well. If made abroad of equally good 
quality, ribbons of this class could not be sold here at a profit. 

The raw material that enters into silk fabrics in this country would be 
considered extravagant in European manufacture. It is an unquestion- 
able fact that there is more silk for the same money in American goods 
than in those which are imported. We compete to more advantage in 
the heavier fabrics than in the lighter ones, because in the latter the labor 
is the chief item of cost. But we are also the gainers in competition for 
trade in heavy goods, because of a deservedly better reputation. The 
popularity of silk goods had been seriously endangered by the practice 
of weighting, and dress silk in Europe no longer holds the place that it 
did as an elegant and permanent fabric. So far as American buyers 
have been dependent upon imported silks, the same distrust has extended 
here. It remains for our manufacturers to overcome that distrust by 
continuing to supply goods of standard purity. We now surpass Euro- 
pean makers in the durability of our silk goods. A permanent command 
of our own market is to be attained chiefly by the good reputation of our 
fabrics, and by keeping them up to the standard. But not for a moment 
can the manufacturer safely rest on his laurels ; he must ever design 
novelties, adopt or invent improvements, and anticipate the constant 
changes of fickle fashion. 

Spun silk no longer hides itself behind other goods. It claims 
equality, on the ground that durability and uniformity make up for 
whatever may be wanting in lustre and beauty. The deficiency in these 
latter features is now very slight ; in some classes of goods it is scarcely 
discernible. Spun silk fabrics are not made or sold as cheap imitations 
of reeled silk ; they stand on their own merits, and are just what they 
profess to be ; a durable and low-priced, not a poor or adulterated article. 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 



41 




VIII. 

Handkerchiefs, &c. 

NTIL comparatively recent years the use of silk pocket- 
handkerchiefs was regarded by most people in this 
country as extravagant luxury. The possessor of such 
an article was seldom willing to admit that he had pur- 
chased it ; it had been presented as a Christmas gift or 
a token of affection. It was only brought out on 
grand occasions, and when somewhat wornout was care- 
fully treasured for use in giving the finishing touch when 
brushing a silk hat, or for a yet more important service in case its owner 
should happen to contract a severe influenza, and find his nostrils more 
than usually tender. 

The more general use of silk handkerchiefs in the United States began 
about eight years ago, and was largely accelerated by the Centennial Ex- 
hibition. These goods were entire novelties to thousands of visitors from 
all parts of the country 7 . One manufacturer is said to have sold, at that 
Exhibition, not less than 25,000 handkerchiefs, all of a single class, and 
generally of two or three colors. Some of the visitors from far distant 
States were rough-looking customers. The father of a family, for instance, 
was going about without a coat ; perched on his shoulder was a child, 
about four years old ; two daughters accompanied him, just ripening into 
maidenhood, and so bashful that they scarcely dared to touch the goods 
offered for their selection. "I've come 1,500 miles to see this show/' 
said the father, as he laid down a $50 bill, preparatory to purchase. 
Each member of the family chose handkerchiefs of a different pattern, and 
as if laying in a stock to last some years. When those people went home 
and showed the goods to their neighbors, they created a demand for silk 
handkerchiefs in that distant locality. This instance of the creation of 
business by the Exhibition, is only one of thousands that were not so cir- 
cumstantially noted. It is calculated that the whole trade in silk hand- 
kerchiefs was advanced at least two years, by the Philadelphia display ; 
the total increase of sales since 1873-4 being now nearly five-fold. 

At the present time the handkerchief — whether for women or for men 



4 2 • THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

— most frequently starts in its career of usefulness as a dress ornament, a 
scarf, a neckerchief. When partly soiled, or after its first washing, it 
usually descends to the pocket ; though some of the inferior grades are 
apt to serve as a mere necktie, and even as a substitute (at the West and 
South) for the collar, being cooler, cheaper and more convenient. Its 
various uses and its low price have doubtless given the silk handkerchief 
its popularity, and the consumption of these goods was not diminished 
during the hard times from which the country is now emerging. 

These articles, made m this country, have only recently acquired their 
good reputation. Not much more than five years ago a leading buyer of 
silk handkerchiefs declared in so many words, " I don't want any Amer- 
ican goods ;'" and at that time a retailer could scarcely be induced to put. 
them on his counter. Now, it is not unusual for a purchaser to ask for 
American-made handkerchiefs, and the prejudice against them has wholly 
disappeared. The complaint most frequently urged against the foreign 
goods was that they were too flimsy. The handkerchiefs which best 
meet the demand here have been more substantial and solid. Brocade 
handkerchiefs are often made with four or five different colors ; the pat- 
terns change rapidly with fashion, though one of them had a run of two 
years. The figures of these goods have a notable hardness to the touch, 
being well bound down in the process of weaving — a result of improve- 
ment in machinery and in the arrangement of the harness of the loom. 
Printed handkerchiefs have also been greatly improved and share the- 
general favor. 

It is not a long step from handkerchiefs to scarfs and neckties, and 
millinery goods in general. The variety of texture in these fabrics is to a 
novice almost appalling. The foundation may be as open as grenadine, 
or of the closest weaving ; and the combinations with satin and brocade 
figures are endless. Most of this branch of industry has come into ex- 
istence here within a very few years. One manufacturer describes its 
growth as starting, in his experience, with making stuff for men's neck- 
ties like the Crefeld goods, of silk warp and cotton filling, about the 
years 1869-70. Many hardships were encountered in creating the busi- 
ness. The first lots when sent out to the trade, to be cut up into ties, 
were returned to the maker as wholly unsatisfactory. After various trials, 
he resolved to cut up the goods in his own factor}-, and he afterwards 
gradually established a trade in the completed neckties. 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 43 

The fashions change so rapidly in millinery goods that it is only in rare 
instances that an article has a long run. The looms must at frequent 
intervals be overhauled and harnesses be changed to produce novelties. 
These rapid changes scarcely give opportunity for perfecting the methods ; 
better goods of any given kind could doubtless be made with longer prac- 
tice. The expense of the needed alterations is heavy, and adds to the cost 
of the fabrics which fashion specially demands. On the other hand, if 
there seems to be a good prospect for steady sale of a special article, many 
mills will be set at work upon it, and a sharp competition will reduce the 
price. Between these rocks the producer of millinery silks must steer or 
be wrecked. In Europe there are fewer difficulties of this kind to be 
avoided ; there is far less enterprise in preparing for novelties, and a con- 
siderable proportion of the goods is made to order. 

Since our manufacturers are willing to make these quick changes to 
meet fashion, they gain thereby an advantage over foreign rivals. A pur- 
chaser who buys his milliner}' silks abroad for this market must expect to 
.get many patterns and shades that will be comparatively unsalable, along 
with those which hit the fashion. Mere consignments from abroad, not 
selected by American buyers, are largely of styles that are no longer in 
request. In either case the importer expects to close the season with auc- 
tion sales and sacrifices. Meanwhile the American manufacturer can stop 
his production of any given article as soon as there are symptoms of its 
becoming unfashionable. It is not easy to estimate whether the importer 
or the home manufacturer has to take on the whole the greater risk. It 
will be seen, however, that the stock of American goods is more likely 
to be in the fashion than those which come from abroad. 

The standard of taste gradually becomes higher and more exacting in 
this country, and the changes we have referred to call for constant improve- 
ments in the arts of manufacture. The fabrics of three years ago appear 
to-day so inferior that we wonder how they could have found sale. But 
though the goods have improved so greatly, their prices are lower, and in 
this branch of the trade as in others, wherever the home manufacturer 
has somewhat supplanted importation, a home competition has kept down 
the cost to consumers. 



44 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 



c^5 




IX. 

Ribbons. 



HE manufacture of silk ribbons in this country was of 
lowly origin. About the year 1861 it began with 
taffeta ribbons, plain, and of the broader widths. It 
was undertaken not as a regular manufacture with a 
view to direct profit, but merely as a matter of con- 
venience to fill deficiencies in importation. When, 
for instance, there was a lack of taffeta ribbons of a 
blue shade, that color happening to have been more 
in demand than usual, the importer thought it possible that the needed 
supply might be secured more quickly here than it could be ordered and 
obtained from abroad. So the early manufacture was a mere experiment, 
with the hope that it would make the imported stock of ribbons more 
desirable by filling the gaps. There was no idea of competition with 
goods made in Europe. Of course, it always happened that whatever 
was most fashionable, and hence most desirable, was the first to become 
scarce. Two or thr*ee months would be required to fill a given line of 
goods by importation ; two or three weeks might be time enough to make 
them here. 

So, the experiment being tried and often repeated with success, a 
regular manufacture was at length organized. But for a long while only 
the broader ribbons were made, because the narrow goods require the 
most labor in proportion to the amount of silk. Stated in round num- 
bers, the broad ribbons first made were at least 40 lines in width. Only 
within three or four years have the narrower ribbons been attempted ; 
now, seven lines in width is not unusually narrow for manufacture here. 
A line is the twelfth of an inch. 

The high price of gold during the war-period operated almost as a 
prohibitory tariff, and checked the importation of foreign ribbons. 
This gave an opportunity to our manufacturers to organize their work, 
and stimulated them to found mills and buy machinery. Different 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 4 > 

classes of work were successively undertaken. The order of develop- 
ment of the industry has been somewhat as follows : 

Plain ribbons, taffeta. 

Plain ribbons, gros grain. 

Satin ribbons, single-faced, plain. 

Satin and gros grain ribbons, double-faced. 

Two-toned satin ribbons — i e. , satin with two colors, one on each side. 

Fancy ribbons, Jacquard work. 

Some of the relations of these different articles to each other may be 
mentioned as showing the line of development. The gros-grain rib- 
bons were an outgrowth from taffeta, by making the filling more heavy. 
The two-toned satin touched the highest point in harness-work (armure). 
The demand for ribbons of such a high order indicated that the more 
elaborate productions of the Jacquard loom would find favor. Harness- 
work is by its nature limited to patterns that are more or less right- 
angled in their details ; Jacquard work can follow any curve of outline, 
and has been employed for all sorts of pictorial reproductions, such as 
leaves, flowers, birds, landscapes, portraits, &c. Pictures in silk, pro- 
duced by machinery of this sort before the eyes of the visitors, were 
among the most attractive things of the Centennial Exhibition. Fashion 
has required, within a year or two, a variety and richness in patterns, 
unknown before ; and the weaving of Jacquard ribbons has thus been 
fully developed here. 

All the ribbons now made in this country are the product of power- 
looms. This is not true of European manufacture. We began, how- 
ever, by buying English power-looms : these were rapidly improved 
upon, so that the good points of French, Swiss, and German methods of 
weaving were reproduced in our more rapid machinery. Such quick 
adoption of any improvement, no matter where originating, is charac- 
teristic of this country; it is rare in Europe, because there the people of 
each nation have a prejudice against methods that to them are foreign. 
Having now the best power-looms in the world, our mills turn out 
ribbons that are of a perfect uniformity; the same in one part as in 
another ; a result that could never have been attained by the most 
careful hand-work. 

The market for our ribbons was not obtained without difficulty. They 
were at first derided as "domestic trash." The entering wedge was 



4 6 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

found in supplying special colors. The tables are so perfectly turned 
now, that it is only inferior ribbons — principally schappe and taffeta — 
that are imported in any considerable quantity. The foreign manufac- 
turers compliment us by imitating American tickets, trademarks, and 
designs. ' ' Have you anything new in broche ribbons ! " asked one of 
our countrymen of a Lyons manufacturer. "Alas!" was the reply, 
' You can make in America anything that we can. ' As fashions gene- 
Tally originate in Europe, it might be supposed that foreign designs 
would be followed in this country. Such, however, is not the fact. 
The styles that originate abroad are made up usually, to suit several 
different markets ; they are rarely intended for America alone. Our 
goods on the contrary are made exclusively for the home market ; the 
ribbons must suit the taste of American ladies. The guidance of foreign 
fashion can only be followed in a general way, and not often in its great 
•extremes of pattern or color. Nearly all the designs for American rib- 
bons originate in our factories, frequently months in advance of the 
introduction of the goods into the market. These designs have excited 
admiration abroad as well as at home ; they are works of the artist rather 
than of the mere artisan. The novelties of pattern and design compel 
changes and improvements in machinery ; and better goods result. 

The statements which have been made elsewhere in this volume, of 
the comparative purity of American silk goods in respect to freedom 
from heavy dye, and as to superiority of the raw silk used, are applicable 
with special force to the ribbon manufacture. The loss of trade in 
foreign ribbons must be in large measure attributed to their being over- 
weighted, and of inferior silk. This is, of course, most noticeable in 
black ribbons, and our manufacturers have taken the opposite course 
with great success, their gros grains being remarkable for purity of dye 
and strength of stock. 






THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA, 



47 



<s&i& 




X. 



Trimmings and Passementerie. 



HERE are several minor divisions of the trade in fringes, 
trimmings and passementerie. Of these the most 
prominent are — 

Ladies' dress and cloak trimmings, 

Millinery trimmings, 

Hatters' and furriers' trimmings, 

Upholstery and military passementerie, 

Coach trimmings. 

We shall not, however, adhere very closely to these distinctions. In 
regard to the most important class of fringes, it should be mentioned 
that their manufacture begins in the mills where sewing-silk and machine- 
twist are made. What is called ' ' two-thread fringe silk, " is sewing- 
silk, and "three-thread fringe silk" is machine-twist. The " fringe silk" 
is put up in large skeins and sold to the makers of fringes, who are 
classed as manufacturers of trimmings. The marked success that has 
been attained in this country in making sewings and twist, applies also 
to fringes, and for the same reasons. The raw material is much better 
than that used for such purposes in Europe, and there is far less adulter- 
ation practised here in dyeing. Our manufacturers can in this branch 
of trade, as in others, afford to use good stock, because it gives less waste, 
can be worked more quickly, and altogether requires less labor, than 
inferior material. The improvements of machinery have also helped in 
making better fringe silk. 

In this instance, our goods have, to a great extent, obtained the repu- 
tation that is their due. The retailer has learned to say to his customers, 
' ' If you want the best, you muct buy American fringes. " The chief 
defect in imported fringe is its want of durability, due to overloading with 
dye, or soap and other substances used to give an appearance of solidity. 
Fringes made of French cordonnet or schappe silk are especially liable 
to such adulteration. When worn, they become rotten by exposure, 



4 8 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

and soon drop off the garment to which they are attached. European 
fringes are usually made of cordonnet, and very rarely of good sewing- 
silk ; the reverse is generally true of the American goods. Ladies have 
learned, in purchasing, to test the strength of fringe by pulling out a 
thread and breaking it. The simple methods of testing whether the 
silk is overloaded with dye-stuff, which are described in the chapter on 
dre:s goods, will also serve to detect adulteration in fringes, some of 
which (imported) have been found to weigh eighty ounces to the pound 
of actual silk ! 

It used to be considered necessary where great elegance in dress was 
required, to have this class of trimmings selected in Paris. Now, how- 
ever, it has ceased to be true that " They do such things better in France/'' 
The fringe may be required to match a given dress, which itself is a 
novelty in color and structure ; in general the changes of style have con- 
tinually called for more elaborate and difficult work, and our manufac- 
turers have responded to the demand by successive improvements. 
There are still a few of the more elaborate fringes, made by old, laborious 
methods in Europe, which have not been reproduced by our quicker 
machinery ; but they can be made here whenever they are called for 
sufficiently to warrant the outlay. It is calculated that a sixth of all the 
raw silk imported into this country is absorbed in making fringes and 
passementerie. 

Furriers as well as modistes require for their productions silk trimmings 
of various kinds, including fringes, tassels and cords. The tassels made 
for ladies' garments are wholly of silk ; those meant for other purposes 
frequently have a core of cotton. Of cords there is a great variety, for 
many different purposes; a hatter, for instance, requiring cord of a style 
wholly unlike that which would be needed for trimming a dressing-gown ; 
there are now made double-faced cords, braided cord, and tubular braid, 
which would have been beyond the capacity of our factories only a few 
years ago. Many varieties of braid are used for the purpose of ornament- 
ing fringes. Crochet and other passementerie buttons are made in this 
country to a limited extent, but the business is not profitable except 
where specialties are demanded, because the duty on imported button- 
cloth is exceedingly low. 

It may be stated in a general way that comparatively few goods of the 
foregoing classes are now imported, except what are called "ladies' 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 49 

passementerie, " which may be described as a sort of gimp or garniture 
made of cord and frequently ornamented with beads. 

A sermon might be preached concerning the black braid that is more 
or less used to trim the edges of men's cloth coats. Several years ago, 
such trimming was very fashionable. The makers of the braid — in 
Europe — saw fit to adulterate it largely, and succeeded in getting into it 
more dye-stuff than silk. The public gradually made the discovery that 
silk braid did not wear well, soon becoming brown, frayed, and generally 
shabby. Men began to insist that there should be no braid upon their 
coats. The result was, as expressively stated by a dealer, that ' ' the trade 
in black braids was as dead as Julius Caesar. " At this point one of our 
manufacturers undertook to make a pure braid out of good sewing- 
silk. The new article had to encounter all the prejudice which the old 
stuff had created. There was imported braid that could be sold for one- 
sixth of the price of the American goods ; yet the latter slowly won their 
way in the market, and have secured a demand which is at present 
steadily increasing. 

The manufacture of upholstery, military, church and coach trimmings, 
including specialties for benevolent and secret societies, has for many 
years had a firm footing in this country. There is an almost endless 
variety of such goods ; among them are braids, cords, bindings, tassels 
and passementerie beyond all enumeration. There was a time when all 
articles of this kind came from England ; but that period has almost faded 
out of recollection. They are made here because ingenious machines 
have been contrived that largely dispense with hand-labor. The action 
of some of these machines seems almost life-like ; fingers of steel spring 
out and catch the moving strands, and turn, twist and combine them in 
the most marvellous way. In one great factor}'- where most of this work is 
carried on, there is a complete machine shop, where the mechanism that 
performs these marvels is constructed, and a measure of secrecy concern- 
ing it is thus attained. A " cord-walk" is there, of dimensions compar- 
able with the old-fashioned rope-walks, where a large order for a new 
style of cord can be executed in two hours. As to the variety of designs 
required in the business, a single example will suffice ; the record of man- 
ufacture includes a thousand different patterns of coach laces. 

Among small wares, the article called ' ' knitting-silk" may be included, 
though it is made by the sewings and twist manufacturers. It provides an 



50 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

excellent pastime for ladies, enabling them to knit silken hose, mitts, 
&c, in otherwise idle moments. To what extent knitting-silk will take 
the place of the proverbial " green lion on a red ground " in Berlin wool, 
it is of course impossible to say ; at present the new diversion is growing 
in favor rapidly. The material is soft and fine, somewhat like embroidery 
silk, and slightly twisted. It is wound on spools, but so amply that they 
look more like balls. A box of these contains a large variety of colors 
and delicate shades. This silk is to be knitted with the ordinary knitting 
needles, and many Boston ladies have become very expert in the perform- 
ance. As the labor of knitting is not to be accounted, it will be easily 
seen that a neat article for a present can thus be made at small expense 
to the giver; about two ounces of silk, costing perhaps $1.50 to $2.00, 
serving for a pair of stockings that could not be purchased ready-made at 
less than $5 to $8. We foresee a time when a favorite clergyman will be 
provided by his flock with stockings as well as slippers. 



- 1 *#£(*. -SBi 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 



V 



<jm@> 




XL 

Silk Laces. 



HE manufacture of silk lace is so recent in this country 
that its whole history nearly falls within the ten-year 
period which we have arbitrarily taken for review. 
The business has, however, in a single instance ex- 
panded sufficiently to give employment to some hun- 
dreds of working-people. Their labor is light so far as 
muscular effort is concerned, but requires dexterity, 
good eyes, and assiduous care. A large amount of 
damage may be effected in a few seconds by carelessness or incompetency. 
The raw silk used in making lace must be of the most uniform charac- 
ter, and hence a preference is given to that which has passed muster in 
the conditioning houses of Europe. According to the kind of lace to be 
made, the thread has to be of a definite thickness, which ranges for dif- 
ferent laces from ''singles" or merely doubled cocoon-threads, up to 
substantial silk yarns. The raw silk is converted into "singles," yarns, 
&c. , in this country, at mills that make a business of - ' throwing " silk, 
but not at the lace factor}*. 

In other fabrics, holes are a defect ; in laces the holes are the chief 
element of beauty. In plain laces and nets the outline of the holes or 
spaces determines the class of the goods ; and regularity in the form 
of these apertures is the first thing that strikes the eye. The figures of 
the more elaborate laces may be said to be formed by the process of filling 
some of these holes according to a pattern. To these general statements 
there are certain exceptions. A few laces have meshes so small that the 
fabric appears continuous, like woven goods. On the other hand, some 
laces (as, for instance, guipure) are made up entirely of figures united by 
ligaments ; 'and have no web or "-foundation" in spaces which the fig- 
ures do not fill. 

Lace-making machines are large, costly, and intricate. No attempt 
will be made here to describe them, except to state that they dilTcr es- 
sentially from a weaving loom in the fact that they have no shuttle trav- 



c 2 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

elling lengthwise. That flying instrument is replaced by an extraordi- 
nary number of little disks, which moye a few inches to and from a spec- 
tator standing in front o f the loom , that is to say, their motion is at right 
angles to that of an ordinary shuttle. The thread carried by each disk, 
passes first to one side and then to the other of each warp thread and 
thus forms a sort of knot at each intersection. The process is more 
nearly similar to knitting or crochet-work, than to weaving. In proof of 
this similarity it may be noted that nubia shawls of worsted are made on 
the lace-machines, and present every appearance of handiwork with the 
crochet-needle. The result is that lace goods have an elasticity which 
cannot be attained in a woven fabric. A piece of silk net, for instance, 
can easily be pulled to double its natural length, without injury. The 
traditional lace shawl could be passed through the wedding ring. People 
with even the largest hands will find lace mitts that stretch so as to cover 
their utmost needs. 

Fashion controls in the style of laces. Ten or twelve years ago a net 
for the hair was an indispensable appendage of every civilized female in 
America. When Metz and Paris were besieged, there was a sudden in- 
terruption of the chief supply of hair nets to this country, our manufac- 
ture of those articles being then quite limited. For a brief period there 
was a "comer" in hair nets, and the lace machines were kept running 
night and day. Some years have elapsed since then, during which all 
the hair nets found their way into ash-barrels. Now the fashion has 
again changed ; the nets are once more in demand, but this time we shall 
not be dependent upon a foreign supply. 

At first nearly all the business of the lace mills here was in open-work 
goods, of which the filena scarfs are a fair example. As the manufacture 
improved, the plain lace or net began to bear f * spots." To borrow the 
language of astronomers, the spot-period rose gradually from a minimum 
to a maximum, beginning with little open rings — penumbrse, as it were, 
which afterwards were bridged across, and at last being completely filled, 
became true spots, well denned. Then these spots slowly expanded into 
the characteristic figures of different styles of lace. It will be no news to 
fair readers, if some of the distinctive features of different laces are here 
presented, but it may be news that such laces are made in this country, 
by machinery, and of the finest silk. It certainly was news in a court- 
room not long ago. The case on trial related to duties on lace goods, 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 53 

and specimen laces were presented and examined by experts. Expert 
No. 1 pronounced a certain sample to be hand-made lace, of European 
production. Expert No. 2 said that it was the finest of machine lace, 
and must have been made in Calais, France. Expert No. 3 declared 
that it was the product of a factory in the United States, and as the pro- 
prietor of that factory happened to be in the court-room, he was called 
up, and testified to having made the goods in question. At present there 
is no kind of machine lace, of silk, which cannot be made in this coun- 
try, and the price is lower while the quality is better than the imported 
article. The competition which our laces have brought to bear against 
the European fabrics has, however, lowered the prices of the latter, and 
thus the consumer is effectually benefited. All of the famous laces have 
thus been imitated. Among them are the elaborate " thread laces," 
with a groundwork of fine net, and the familiar leaf patterns ; each leaf a 
wonder of transparent, delicate tracery. The purls or little loops which 
ornament the edges of this lace, and a sort of ripple at certain points 
which is produced by reversing the motion of a knitting-needle, used to 
provide infallible tests for distinguishing hand-made from machine work; 
tut now there are no differences of that sort which are discernible. The 
"purl lace" is, indeed, all serrated with purls. A great deal of clipping 
lias to be done with some of the machine laces, to cut away superfluous 
threads carried by the machinery from one point to another, across the 
web. An examination by a magnifying glass of the stumps of these 
clipped threads might sometimes determine the mode of manufacture, 
but this test cannot apply to purl lace, as it is not clipped at all, its super- 
fluous threads being drawn. Blonde lace has a well-defined pattern, and 
a groundwork which is a little coarser than thread lace. Spanish lace is 
•coarser throughout, and more heavily overlaid. The honeycomb spaces 
of Brussels lace give it a noteworthy regularity of texture. Many laces, 
such as torchon and Smyrna, are chiefly peculiar in their patterns. Val- 
enciennes differs from all others in having its threads plaited or braided 
instead of being twisted or knotted ; this is most observable in the figured 
portions, and can best be seen with a magnifying glass. All the guipure 
laces are of heavy thread and figures ; it has been mentioned that they 
have no groundwork or web ; it may be added that they do not undergo 
any clipping. For a long while laces with deeply scolloped edges have 
borne sway. We may not be more moral, but we are to be more straight- 



54 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

laced than our predecessors, since fashion calls for Bretonne lace, to 
which purls and scollops are unknown. It is in this lace that the most 
recent improvements have been made by the manufacturer. 

Bv the natural expansion of a successful trade, the sale of our laces is 
gradually extending outside of the home market, and they have found 
their way into Canada in the face of a tariff duty, and in competition with 
British fabrics. There are, however, some features of the home market 
which must give it greater permanency than an export trade. Many of 
our lace goods are made in colors, to meet the transient wants of fashion, 
and the laces have to match the delicate hues of the goods they overlay. 
For this purpose an exactness in shades is required. The changes of 
fashion in respect to these shades are sudden, and as difficult to anticipate 
as the varying tints of an evening sky. The importer of European goods 
is at a disadvantage compared with our manufacturer in meeting this- 
capricious demand. 

Some of us who have a tender love for old china and genuine hand- 
made lace experience a feeling of subdued anger at the thought that such, 
precious things can be imitated by soulless machinery. This indignation 
is not reciprocated by the manufacturers of machine-lace. They would 
gladly see the making of hand-lace more widely introduced and practised 
in this country. The importance of such an industry- may be conceived 
from the fact that it gives employment to 130,000 women and girls in a, 
single province of France. We suppose that the ladies who are thor- 
oughly conversant with pillows and points in the United States may easily 
be numbered, and will not reach high in the hundreds ; but as an indus- 
trial occupation, lace-making is almost unknown among our country- 
women. Whatever may be the improvements in machinery, hand-made 
lace is sure of maintaining its superior value. If it were more largely 
made in this country, it would be more largely worn by the wealthier 
classes, and their imitators would require more of the imitation laces. 
Such, at least, is the reasoning of a manufacturer of machine-laces, and 
it furnishes him with a selfish excuse for a liberal view of the subject. 




THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 55 



XII. 

Dyeing. 

ARIETY in colors seems to be more required now than 
formerly. The range of tints supplied to our grand- 
mothers was comparatively narrow ; the dye-stuffs were 
few, and could only be used to advantage in certain 
ways. The art of dyeing was traditional, and its re- 
cipes were handed down in families. Now, it comes- 
within the domain of science, and its discoveries sooner 
or later become common property. 
In purity, brilliance, delicacy and variety, the colors used to-day far 
surpass those that suited our ancestors. In permanence, the new hues, 
have not been so satisfactory, but they are improving. "True blue/' 
and "Dyed in the wool," have become proverbial phrases for honor and 
honesty. There is a chance for a similar sentiment in respect to ' ' Pure 
black," and "Dyed in the yarn." 

Silk goods, foulards excepted, are not dyed in the piece. There is, 
however, a small amount of re-dyeing done with piece-goods, more 
especially as to imported articles, arriving in unsalable colors. Few 
foulards are made here. They are, specifically, goods made of yarns. 
that have not been dyed, usually of reeled silk warp and spun silk filling ; 
they are frequently designated as ecrus (unbleached) : their colors are often 
applied by stamps, and if by dyeing, it is always done in the piece. 

The rapid succession of discoveries in the aniline colors has put aside 
both the traditions and the secrecy of the dyer's art, while supplying an 
infinite variety of hues. The improvement in the colors of silk goods 
by the use of the anilines is one of the great features of progress in 
recent years, and can scarcely be overestimated. These dyes are now 
used to produce every tint, shade and color that may be required for 
silk, except pure black. Upholstery goods are now the only ones in 
which the new colors are not the invariable rule. It is expected that, 
aniline black will eventually be applied to silk, and from time to time 
announcements have been made of success in that direction, though as 
yet it is not achieved in this country. 



56 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

While there is really no limit to the variety of tints that can be made 
with the aniline colors, there are, of course, some bounds to the require- 
ments of trade and fashion. The dyer usually prepares for each season 
an assortment, designated as "new colors/' and comprising about 300 
different shades. From these the silk manufacturer can often select the 
tints of which he wishes to have his yarns dyed \ but it frequently 
happens that some intermediate shade is needed, and perhaps as many 
more " colors " as are at first offered, will be required in the course of a 
season. A single fabric may be composed of strands of many colors, 
and the tendency of fashion has latterly been toward such styles. Cer- 
tain goods — for instance, swivel cloth — may have figures of a color 
wholly different from the ground. Last Fall there were ribbons in 
vogue which required the use of five or six shuttles, each carrying a 
different color; and there is, of course, occasion for similar and even 
greater variety in the hues of the warp-threads. 

Doubtless, the novelties in color that are presented, stimulate taste in 
in that direction. The brilliant series of aniline pinks, scarlets, reds 
and crimsons that preceded cardinal, helped that color to the favor it has 
met with so steadily since its introduction. Next to the reds, the blues 
are most appreciated. Americans have, however, always admired the 
" red, white and blue," and we may mention, in passing, that the manu- 
facture of silk flags is a considerable branch of industry, which received 
a great impetus in 1876, and has not since languished. At present the 
post of honor among fashionable colors is held by "gendarme blue," 
(which, strictly speaking, is a bluish green) such as appears in the 
"eye" or ring of a peacock feather. An expert in these matters has 
estimated that there are at least one hundred definite shades of color in 
a peacock's tail. After the reds, blues and greens, next in popular favor 
come the olives, browns, straw-color, and golden yellow. At the Cen- 
tennial Exhibition a dyer exhibited the solar spectrum in colored silks, 
with fine effect, using about 100 different shades for the purpose. 

The display of American silk goods of all kinds at Philadelphia was in 
general more brilliant in color than that of corresponding articles from 
Europe. This fact will appear of some importance, when we consider 
its causes. The American goods were fresh ; some of them were not dyed 
till the last week before being placed in the show-cases. The foreign 
goods had suffered the disadvantage of an ocean voyage, of more handling 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 57 

In packing and unpacking, and perhaps, of longer exposure to light be- 
fore starting. It is believed that fabrics lose color while in the hold of a 
vessel at sea. Persons accustomed to judge of colors perceive at a glance 
a marked difference between goods that have been thus transported and 
those that are newly dyed. As bearing on this point it is alleged that 
French cordonnet yarns are brought here "in the gray" to be dyed, be- 
cause their colors thus obtained are brighter than if they were dyed abroad. 

The loss of freshness is not confined to fancy colors ; it is noticeable 
even in black dress silks. Perhaps it is not wholly due to the voyage. 
All the operations of manufacture are conducted more slowly on the 
other side of the Atlantic than here, and there are credible instances of 
European goods being six months on the loom. Exposure to light dur- 
ing weaving does certainly have a marked effect, and some experts claim 
that they can see a difference between the product of a loom which is 
near an unshaded window, and one in a darker part of the factory. 
Granting the correctness of these statements, it would seem to follow that 
all imported silk goods are more or less damaged ; but we should hesi- 
tate to make such an assertion. 

When anilines were first introduced, more than twenty years ago, the 
fault was generally found with them, that they lacked permanence. That 
defect has been measurably removed. With every year the dyers have 
learned better how to make such colors ' ' fast. " The more delicate a 
shade is, the more fugitive it is likely to be, and since the anilines ex- 
ceed all other tints in delicacy, the difficulty of fixing them is by so much 
the greater. But all colors, even those solid and sombre ones that were 
made in olden times, if applied to textile fabrics, fade somewhat by ex- 
posure. The most that we can hope for the new colors is that they will 
be made as "fast" as the old ones, and this, the dyers say, is a result 
already almost reached. They claim it now, for their reds. 

In the choice of colors Americans are fastidious. The ladies insist 
upon certain harmonies of hue in their apparel, more strenuously than 
Europeans. If fashion prescribes some outre shade or a bizarre mixture 
of tints, it may be accepted abroad, but in our Atlantic cities it must be 
toned down to moderation. It is said that more careful and accurate 
matching of colors is required here than in Europe. . This applies to all 
kinds of silk goods — sewing silk, fringes, millinery and trimmings. It 
is not so evident why a similar taste should be expended on silk linings, 



58 THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 

which are destined to be hidden from view when in use ; but even these, 
whether for male or female wear, must be of choice colors. 

The chemical dyes are imported, and are the best of their kind; 
better, it is said, than Europeans use for their own silks. A part of 
the black dye is made in this country from native woods, and is highly 
commended. 

The school in which most of our older manufacturers learned what 
they know about dyeing was in making sewings and twist. The black 
dye was more difficult to perfect than the colors, but their success was at 
last complete. Nevertheless, similar trouble was experienced when black 
dress silks first began to be extensively made here. But the dyeing of 
those fabrics has so decidedly improved within a few years, that it is 
claimed now to be fully equal to the best in Europe. As to weighting 
with excess of minerals, let it not be supposed that our dyers are ignorant 
of the art. If our manufacturers want loaded silks, they can have them 
weighted in this country, to order. In most instances, however, they 
may safely repeat the famous comment of Mark Twain upon the legend 
asserting that Washington couldn't tell a lie :• "I can, but — I won't." 






As a part of the history of recent advances in the industry under 
review, the Eighth Annual Report of the Silk Association of America 
is herewith presented. This summarizes the progress made during the 
past year in the silk manufacture of this country, and gives valuable 
statistics relating to the trade. 



EIGHTH 



Annual Report 



OF THE 



Silk Association 



OF AMERICA 




Wednesday, May 12th i8Sc. 



THE 



$ilk ^odktion. of LAiDeridk. 



OFFICERS, 1879—1880. 



President, 

FRANK W. CHENEY, - - - Hartford, Conn. 

Vice-Presidents. 

A. B. STRANGE, - New York. 
WM. RYLE, ------ 

ROBERT HAMIL, - Paterson, N. J. 

Treasurer. 

S. W. CLAPP, ----- New York. 

Directors. 

F. 0. HORSTMANN, - - - Philadelphia,. Penn. 

B. RICHARDSON, - New York. 
GEO. B. SKINNER, - Yonkers, N. Y. 
IRA DIMOCK, ----- Hartford, Conn. 
WM. STRANGE, - Paterson, N. J. 
J. WEIDMANN, - - - - - Paterson, N. J. 
JOHN N. STEARNS, - - - New York. 
WILLIAM SKINNER, - Holyoke, Mass. 
SETH LOW, - _ _ _ - - New York. 
GEORGE H. BURRITT, - 

L. BAYARD SMITH, - 

MILO M. BELDING, - 

D. O'DONOGHUE, - - - - 

A. G. JENNINGS, ----- Brooklyn, N. Y. 

LOUIS FRANKE, - New York. 

C. LAMBERT, Paterson, N. J. 

JOHN T. WALKER, - New York. 

JOHN D. CUTTER, - Newark, N. J. 

HERMAN SIMON, - Town of Union, N. J. 

S. M. MEYENBERG, - New York. 

Secretary. 

WM. C. WYCKOFF, - 44 Howard Street, N. Y 



LIST OF MEMBERS 

OF THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA 
MAY 14TH, 1880. 



Allen, H. S., - - -27 Greene Street, New York City, N. Y. 
Arai, R., - - - 55 Walker Street, " " 

Arnold, Frank, - - 477-481 Broome Street, " " " 

Armstrong, Benjamin A., 469 Broadway, " " " 

Aub, Hackenburg & Co., - Philadelphia, Penn. 

Auffmordt, C. A. & Co., 33-35 Greene Street, New York City, N. Y. 
Belding, Milo M., - 456 Broadway, " " " 

Belding, A, N., - - - - - - Rockville, Conn. 

Belding, D. W., - - - - - - Cincinnati, Ohio. 

Belding, H. H., Chicago, 111. 

Boettger, Henry W., 47 Mercer Street, New York City, N. Y. 

Boissiere, E. V., - - Williamsburgh, Franklin Co., Kansas. 

Booth, James, - - - - - - - Paterson, N. J. 

Booth, J. H., - - 54 Mercer Street, New York City, N. Y. 

Bottum, C. L., - - - - - - Northampton, Mass. 

Bowman, John A., ------ Boston, Mass. 

Bridge, Frederick, ------ Shanghai, China. 

Brown, H. L., - - - - - - Middletown, Conn. 

Burritt, George H., - - 32 Burling Slip, New York City, N. Y. 
Busch, Peter, - - - 107 Grand Street, " 
Butler, H. V., - - - 34 Reade Street, " " " 

Caswell, John & Co.,- - 87 Front Street, 

Chaffee, O. S. & Son, Mansfield Centre, Conn. 

Chaffanjon, C, ----- Jersey City Heights, N. J. 
Cheney, Frank W., - - - - South Manchester, Conn. 



66 THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 

Cheney, Harry G., - South Manchester, Conn. 

Cheney, Knight D., - " " " 

Cheney, James W., # - - - - « " " 

Cheney, John S., " " 

Cheney, Richard O., - - - - « " « 

Clapp, S. W., - - - 7 Mercer Street, New York City, N. Y. 
Comby, John, - - - - - West Hoboken, N. J. 

Copcutt, Wm. H. & Co., - - - - Yonkers, N. Y. 

Cutter, John D., - - - 329 Broadway, New York City, N. Y. 
Dimock, Ira, ------- Hartford, Conn. 

Dunlop, John, ------- Paterson, N. J. 

Eaton, E. W., - - 19 Mercer Street, New York City, N. Y. 

Eldridge, Henry, - - 435 Broadway " " " 

Fenner, A. B., - - - - - Central Village, Conn. 

Fogg, Wm. H., - - 32 Burling Slip, New York City, N. Y. 

Franke, Louis, - - no Grand Street, " 

Fukui, M., - - 58 Walker Street, " 

Funke, Hugo, - - 23-25 Greene Street, " 

Gibbes, A. H., - 93 Wall Street, " 

Givernaud, Louis, - - 46 Howard Street, " 

Graham, J. C, - - - - - - Philadelphia, Penn. 

Grant, James, - - 137 Duane Street, New York City, N. Y. 

Grimshaw, John, ------ Paterson, N. J. 

Hadden & Co. - 1 09-1 11 Worth Street, New York City, N. Y. 

Hall, L. C, Jr., Philadelphia, Penn. 

Hamil, Robert, ------- Paterson, N. J. 

Harris, W. J., - - - - - - - - Marion, N. J. 

Hayden, J. H., - - - - - Windsor Locks, Conn. 

Hayes, Thos. F., - - 5-9 Union Square, New York City, N. Y. 

Hill, A. G, Florence, Mass. 

Horstmann, F. O., - - - - - Philadelphia, Penn. 

Hovey, F. S., 

Itschner, W. & Co., 

Jennings, A. G, - 473-475 Broome Street, New York City, N. Y. 
Jennings, Warren P., " " " " " " 

Johnson, Rowland, - 54 Beaver Street, " " " 

Lambert, C, - - — . - - - - Paterson, N. J. 



THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 67 

Lathrop Bros., ------ Northampton, Mass. 

Lockhardt, C. F., - - 73 Leonard Street, New York City, N. Y. 

Loth, Joseph, - - 458 Broome Street, " " " 

Low, A. A., - - - 31 Burling Slip, 

Low, Seth, - - 31 " 

Low, Ethelbert M., - - 31 " 

Low, A. Augustus, - 31 " " " " " 

Ludwig, E., - - 454 Broome Street, " 

Lyman, Joseph, - - 31 Burling Slip, " " " 

Macy, Geo. H., - - 106 Water Street, 

Meyenherg, S. M., - - 40 Lispenard Street, " " " 

Milton, W. F., - - 159 Maiden Lane, " " " 

Morgenroth, Gust. A., Jr., - " 

Murray, Russell, - - 52 Greene Street, " " " 

O'Donoghue, D., - - 51 " 

Paul, Frank, ------ Montreal, Canada. 

Pelgram & Meyer, - 57—59 Greene Street, New York City, N. Y. 

Phipps, Walter T., - 73 Leonard Street, 

Pomeroy, S. W., Jr., - - 59 Wall Street, 

Richardson, B., - - 5 Mercer Street, " 

Richardson, F. G., - - 5 

Richardson, Geo. P., - - - - - Cincinnati, Ohio. 

Rossmassler, Richard, - - - - Philadelphia, Penn. 

Ryle, John C, Paterson, N. J. 

Ryle, William, - - 54 Howard Street, New York City, N. Y. 

Ryle, Wm. T., - 54 " " 

Scott, John J.,- - - - - - - Paterson, N. J. 

Seavey, J. W. C, - - - - - - - Canton, Mass. 

Silberman, J. & Co., - - 53 Greene Street, New York City, N. Y. 

Simes, Chas. F., - - 46 Howard Street, 

Simon, Hermann, ----- Town of Union, N. J. 

Simon, Robert, 

Simonds, J. H., - - - - - Warehouse Point, Conn. 

Skinner, Geo. B. & Co.,- - 27 Mercer Street, New York City, N. Y. 

Skinner, William, Holyoke, Mass. 

Smith, Benj. D., - - - 113 Water Street, New York City, N. Y. 
Smith, L. Bayard, 77 William Street, " 



68 THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 

Smith, L. O., - - - - - - - -. Philadelphia, Penn. 

Smith, S. K., Pittsfield, Mass. 

Stanton, W. A., - - - - - Chicago, 111. 

Stearns, Henry K., - 458 Broome Street, New York City, N. Y. 

Stearns. John N, - 458 

Stelle, L. R., - - - - Sauquoit, near Utica, N. Y. 

Strange, A. B., - 42-44 Greene Street, New York City, N. Y. 

Strange, Theodore A., - 42-44 

Strange, Wm., ------- Paterson, N. J. 

Struss, W. H. - - no Grand Street, New York City, N. Y. 
Strenli, Alfred, - 70 Mercer Street, " " " 

Tilt, Albert, Paterson, N. J. 

Walker, John T., - - 81 Pine Street, New York City, N. Y. 

Walter, Richard, - 222-224 Church Street, " " " 

Warner, Luther J., - Northampton, Mass. 

Weidmann, Jacob, ------ Paterson, N. J. 

Wetmore, Cryder & Co., - 74 South Street, New York City, N. Y. 
Wilson, H. B., - - 33-35 Greene Street, " " " 

Wood, Payson & Colgate - 64 Pine Street, " •« " 

Yamao, K., - - - 46 Murray Street, " " " 

Yegawa, Kimihira, Consul of Japan, 7 Warren St., " " " 

HONORARY MEMBERS. 

Allen, Franklin, - - 63 Broadway, New York City, N. Y. 

Haywood, George M. - 90 Franklin Street, " " " 

Mackay, J. P., Sec'y, - Paterson, N. J. 

Ryle, John, - - " << 

Takaki, Samro, ------ Yokohama, Japan. 

Tomita, Tetsnoski, - - London, England. 



PREAMBLE AND BY-LAWS 



OF THE 



SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA, 

IN FORCE MAY, 1880. 



Whereas, the Silk interest constitutes an important branch of National 
Industry, largely involving the labor and capital of the country; and, 
whereas, its future growth and permanent success require greater co- 
operation on the part of those engaged in it, than has heretofore existed ; 

Therefore, for the purpose of promoting the advancement and pros- 
perity of this interest more effectually, by the increase of information, 
by the interchange of ideas, by harmonious action, and by all other appro- 
priate means, we, the subscribers, agree to associate ourselves together, 
under the name of The Silk Association of America, and be governed 
by such rules and by-laws as the Association may, from time to time, 
idopt 

BY-LAWS. 



ARTICLE I. 

CONDITION OF MEMBERSHIP. « 

Section i. — Any person being a principal or partner of a firm or officer of a cor- 
poration engaged in the Silk Industry of the United States, or agent of such firm or 
•corporation, or any person holding power of attorney of a member, may become a 
member of this Association. 

Persons not residing in the United States engaged in pursuits in any wise con- 
nected with the Silk trade of America, may become members of this Association. 

Sec 2. — No person shall be eligible for membership who is not proposed for election 
by some actual member, by written notice to the President or Secretary; and no person 
shall be admitted if five or more negatives are given against him. 

Sec 3. — The Government, at any duly organized meeting, may elect corresponding 
and honorary members, by the unanimous vote of the members present; such corres- 
ponding or honorary members shall be entitled to all the privileges of regular members, 
-except the right to vote or hold office. 



7 o THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 

Sec. 4. — Each person admitted as a member of the Association, except correspond- 
ing or honorary members, snail pay to the Secretary the sum of twenty five dollars as 
an admission fee, which shall be in full for the year in which he is elected, and there- 
aftei he shall pay annually, while he shall remain a member, the sum of twenty-five 
dollars. 

Sec. 5. — UpoD the refusal ot failure by any member to pay his just dues and sub- 
scriptions, hi? name shall be presented to the Government, and upon their vote, shall 
be struck from the list of members. 

Sec. 6. — Any membei can withdraw from the Association after fulfilling all his ob- 
ligations to it, by giving written notice of such intention to the Secretary. 



ARTICLE n. 

CLASSIFICATION OF MEMBERS. 

Sec. i. — The member? oi the Association may be classified by the Secretary in five 
several divisions, accoiding to the branch of the silk business in which they are respect- 
ively engaged, which divisions shall be a? follows : 

Division A. . . . Importers, dealers and brokers in raw silk. 
" B. . . .Throwsters of and dealers in gum silk. 
" C . . . .Manufacturers of sewing silks and twist. 
" D. . . .Weavers and Dyers. 
" E Manufacturers of fringe, braid, trimmings, &c. 

The divisions may be separately organized by the selection of a chairman by each, 
with such other officers and committees as may be desired, and shall occupy the 
rooms of the Association for their meetings, under arrangement with the Government ; 
and through their chairman, may report to, or communicate with the Association at its 
general meetings upon any matter relating to their special branches. 

Sec. 2. — Members engaged in several branches of the silk business may be regis- 
tered under each. 



ARTICLE III. 

OFFICERS AND THEIR ELECTION. 

Sec. I.— The officers of the Association shall consist of a President, three Vice* 
Presidents, a Treasurer, not less than twelve and not more than twenty Directors, who 
together shall constitute the Government of the Association, and five of whom shall 
form a quorum for the transaction of business. 

Sec. 2. — The Government shall have power to manage the affairs of the Associa- 
tion ; to hold meetings at such times and places as they may think proper, to appoint 
committees on particular subjects from the members of the Government, or from other 
members of the Association, with full power to act on such committees as though 
members of the Governmen t ; to audit bills, and appropriate the funds of the Associa- 
tion ; to print and circulate documents, and publish articles in the newspapers ; to 
carry od correspondence and otherwise communicate with other Associations inter- 



BY-LAWS, IN FORCE, MAY, 1SS0. 7* 

ested in the development of the Silk Industry ; to employ agents, and to devise and 
carry into execution such other measures as they may deem proper and expedient to> 
promote the objects of the Association. 

Sec. 3. — After the first choice, all the officers of the Association shall be annually 
elected by ballot at the annual meeting, at such place as the Government may appoint,. 
a majority of the members present being necessary to constitute an election, and such 
officers shall continue in office for the term of one year, or until their successors are 
elected and qualified to take their places. 

Sec. 4. — The Government of the Association shall choose a Secretary and fix his. 
salary ; and may fill any vacancies occurring in their body, by death, declination to 
serve, resignation, or any other cause, after the annual election, at any regular or 
special meeting at which a quorum shall be present. 



ARTICLE IV. 

DUTIES OF OFFICERS. 

Sec. I. — It shall be the duty of the President, or, in his absence, of one of the. 
Vice-Presidents, in order of seniority, to preside at all meetings of the Association and 
of the Government ; end the President or one of the Vice-Presidents shall audit and 
sign the annual accounts of the Treasurer. 

Sec. 2. — The Treasurer shall keep an account of all moneys received and expended 
for the use of the Association, and shall make disbursements only upon vouchers ap- 
proved, in writing, by the Secretary and any member of the Government. When his- 
term of office expires, he shall deliver over to his successor all books, moneys and 
other property ; or in the absence of the Treasurer elect, to the President. 

Sec. 3. — It shall be the duty of the Secretary, who shall not be engaged in any 
branch of the Silk Industry, to give notice of, and attend all meetings of the Associa- 
tion and its several divisions, and to keep a record of their doings ; to conduct all cor- 
respondence, and to carry into execution all orders, votes and resolves, not otherwise 
committed ; to keep a list of the members of the Association ; to collect the fees, 
annual dues and subscriptions, and pay them over to the Treasurer ; to notify officers 
and members of the Association of their election ; to notify members of their appoint- 
ment on committees ; to furnish the chairman of each committee with a copy of the 
vote under which the committee is appointed, and at his request give notice of the 
meetings of the committee ; to prepare, under direction of the Government, an annual 
report of the transactions and condition of the Association ; and generally to devote 
his best efforts to forwarding the business and advancing the interests of the Association. 



ARTICLE V. 

MEETINGS OF THE ASSOCIATION. 

Sec. I. — The regular meetings of this Association shall be held at such place as the 
Government may appoint, upon the Second Wednesday of February, May, August 



72 THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 

and November, and notice of such meetings, signed by the Secretary, shall be mailed 
to the address of each member, at least ten days before the time appointed for the 
meeting. 

Sec. 2.— The meeting in May shall be the Annual Meeting, for the election of 
officers, and receiving the report of the Government. 

Sec. 3. — Special meetings may be called by the Government, or upon the written 
•application to the Secretary, of ten members, not in the Government ; notice thereof 
to be given in the same manner as for the Regular Meetings. 

Sec. 4. — It shall require ten members present at any meeting to form a quorum ; 
and in case of there not being a quorum, the meeting my be adjourned by the pre- 
•sidine officer. 



ARTICLE VL 

The order of business shall be as follows : 

1.— Calling of the Roll. 

2. — Reading of the Minutes. 

3. — Election of Officers or New Members. 

4. — Reports of Officers. 

5. — Reports of Committees. 

6. — Receiving Communications. 

7. — Unfinished Business. 

8. — New Business. 



ARTICLE VIL 

Sec. I.— These By-Laws maybe amended or repealed by a vote of two-thirds of 
the members present at any duly organized meeting of the Association ; provided 
notice of such proposed change shall have been presented, in writing, at a previous 
meeting. 



SECRETARY'S REPORT. 



In conformity with the by laws of the Association, the Secretary has 
the honor to submit the following report, prepared under direction of its 
Board of Government, and presenting a review for the past year of the 
transactions and the condition of the Silk Association of America. 

The silk industry during the past year has shared in the general revival 
of prosperity. The purchasing power of the middle and upper classes — 
the consumers of silk goods — depends chiefly upon the question whether 
their own business is active and profitable. An increased consumption 
of silk manufactures follows closely in the wake of renewed enterprise 
and activity in other departments of trade and commerce. The enlarged 
demand, thus created, applies as well to the foreign as to the domestic 
fabrics, and the imports for the past year, of silk manufactures, exceeded 
those of the previous year by 28 per cent, and of the year before by 
nearly 30 per cent ; their total invoiced value for the year 1879 amount- 
ing to #25,830,829. 

The fact that there has been so large an importation of silk goods from 
Europe need not, however, occasion regret, in view of our own more 
rapid advances in manufacture. A greater number of people wear and 
use these fabrics than ever before ; and having become accustomed to 
them, will perpetuate the demand when American manufacturers are more 
fully prepared to supply the wants of their countrymen — and country- 
women. 

While nobody believes that imported silk goods are paying the full 
measure of duties to the Government, it should be a source of satisfac- 
tion that they do provide one of the largest sources of the public revenue. 
Estimating by the percentage paid in previous years, we may calculate 
that the importations of silk goods yielded, last year, 115,000,000 to the 
United States treasury. If we choose to call this large sum a "tax," we 
should at least be thankful that it has fallen upon the class of people who 
are best able to afford it — the rich, the prosperous, those who have 
money to spend and spare for foreign luxuries. The Government is also 
to be congratulated on a somewhat greater efficiency in the collection of 



74 



THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 



this branch of the revenue. As is well known, the chief method by which 
the full payment of duties is avoided, is by undervaluation of invoices. 
The Custom-House officials have, however, compelled the raising of un- 
dervalued invoices throughout the year; so that the Government col- 
lected duty in the last six months of 1879 on about $800,000, and in. 
the first four months of 1880 on about $525,000 added to the original 
invoices. If a sermon on the morals of trade were in order, these figures 
would furnish a text. 

The most trustworthy index of the enlargement of silk manufacture 
in this country, is to be found in the record of increase of raw silk 
imported. These figures, from time to time supplied to the members of 
this Association in weekly and monthly circulars, are extremely sugges- 
tive. They show that in the calendar year 1879, there were imported 
18,936 bales of raw silk, valued at $9,921,032. This is an increase, as- 
to the number of bales, of nearly 40 per cent, over 1878, and of 91 per 
cent, over 1877; as to values, of 45 per cent, over 1878, and 80 per 
cent, over 1877. In general terms it may be stated that the consump- 
tion of raw silk has doubled within two or three years, and at present 
shows no signs of nearing its limit. The proportion of increase has been 
greater in imports from Japan than from any other source. A table ap- 
pended to this report gives details, by which it appears that the receipts 
of Japan silk for the 12 months ending April, 1880 (inclusive), exceeded 
those of the preceding twelvemonth by 43 per cent. This is the more 
remarkable, since the total export of silk from Japan to all countries was 
somewhat less in 1879 than in any of three preceding years. 

The price of raw silk rose about 10 per cent, in June, 1879, an d this 
advance was maintained till August, when values receded to within 5 per 
cent, of their previous position. * The rise of price stimulated the de- 
mand and production in Japan, so that it is now estimated that 700 es- 
tablishments — large and small — are employed in that country in reeling 
and preparing silk for export. As might be expected under such pres- 
sure, instances of carelessness in the preparation of Japan silk have been, 
more frequent than they formerly were; and it seems probable that some 
establishments that go by the name of filatures do little more than re- 



* The remarkable decline in the value of raw silk which is the feature of the present 
year, took place after the date of this report. 



THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 75 

reel the fibre. There has been no improvement in Chinese silk : the 
complaints of adulteration and other defects are more pronounced than 
ever. It has been urged that the Silk Association of America take some 
active measures for representing these facts abroad. A project for a Con- 
ditioning House in New York has been placed before the Association, 
and it is hoped that the enterprise will obtain sufficient support. One 
of the objects which may possibly be reached when a Conditioning 
House is established, will, it is hoped, be to ascertain definitely the ex- 
tent and amount of adulterations and bad reeling ; and to fix in each in- 
stance the responsibility upon the Asiatic producer. 

Sharp and continuous competition has been the marked characteristic 
of the business in sewing silk and machine twist. This branch of the 
industry has secured to itself the home market, and has long since 
•ceased to be affected by importations from abroad. But there is no 
agreement between our manufacturers upon prices, and a ruinous system 
of discounts to purchasers has reduced profits to the slenderest margin. 
The old abuse of presenting elaborate and costly cabinets has also broken 
out afresh, with renewed force. It is an absurd custom, and might be 
checked at once, or at least kept within reasonable bounds, if a few 
leading firms would agree upon the point, and then abide by their agree- 
ment. 

The effect of the fierce rivalry in the sewings and twist trade is shown 
by a very remarkable fact. While the number of concerns engaged in 
all other branches of the silk industry has largely increased, in this it 
has remained almost stationary, only one new firm having been started 
during the year. The business is, however, very active ; most of the 
factories have had all the orders they could fill, and they are running 
on full time. The operatives are more benefitted than their employers. 
The quantity of raw silk consumed and goods made in this branch of 
business has been as great as in previous years, but the value produced 
was less. 

In woven goods the conditions of the market have not been quite so 
severe. It is worth noting, however, that while the prices of manufac- 
tured goods in almost every other kind of industry rose rapidly during a 
part of the past year, and have since retained a decided advance, — there 
has been no corresponding rise in the prices of silk fabrics. In fact, the 
course has been somewhat the other way. One of our most careful 



76 THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 

manufacturers estimates that he is selling his goods (in April) on art 
average of 5 per cent, cheaper than at this time last year, while having 
to pay more than then for both raw material and labor. Admitting that 
this estimate is correct, it must be conceded that business is conducted 
more economically and on a smaller margin of profit than formerly. 
The improvements in machinery and manufacturing processes during the 
year have not been sufficiently marked to account for the discrepancy. 
Undoubtedly the volume of business has been larger, and hence could 
be conducted at somewhat lower cost. 

The Secretary of this Association has been appointed United States 
Special Agent to collect the statistics of the silk industry for the Xth 
Census. In order to make this work as complete as possiblf, great 
pains have been taken to obtain full lists of all the silk manufacturers in 
the country-. The investigation has already revealed the fact that the 
number of concerns engaged in this industry is far greater than was pre- 
viously supposed, and the lists lengthen with fresh additions almost every 
day. The publication of these lists, in the form of a Directory, issued 
under the auspices of the Association, will show that a very large number 
of the smaller class of manufacturers has begun business within two or 
three years. The compilation made in 1875-6 showed that there were 
at that time 279 concerns engaged in silk manufacture. The new lists 
now ready for publication increase the number of names to at least 400, 
and if branches and agencies be included, to about 500. After making 
all due allowance for the greater thoroughness with which names and 
addresses have been collected, we must admit that the added length of 
the lists is mainly due to an actual and very large increase of the number 
of concerns engaged in manufacture ; we may fairly estimate that there 
are now 50 per cent, more than there were three or four years ago. 

The advance of the silk industry in Paterson, N. J. was very fully set 
forth at this year's annual dinner of the Silk Association of America, in 
a valuable address by Mr. George Wurts, editor of The Press of that city. 
The following is an extract of the statistical portion of his speech : 

The details compiled in 1876 for the work entitled " The Silk Industry of America ■* 
gave 37 silk factoiies in Paterson, including 5 dyeing establishments ; number of oper- 
atives nearly 8,000 ; wages $2,664,993 ; capital, $5,926,804 ; throwing spindles, 74,- 
323 ; power looms, 730 ; hand looms, 563 ; braiding spindles, 23.445 ; pounds of silk 
dyed, 550,000. 



THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 77 

In a paper read before the Paterson Board of Trade by Mr. C. Lambert, giving the 
statistics of the silk industry in this city* for 1876, he estimated the yearly product a<. 
about $6,000,000. 

The report of the New Jersey Bureau of Labor and Statistics for 1879 gives the value 
of the silk product of the State in that year as $13,700,846. 

Finally, the following facts are taken from an immense amount of statistical infor- 
mation gathered recently by The Press. It was obtained by carefully visiting each es- 
tablishment, large and small — some of them two or three times — and securing the data 
from first hands. A careful compilation of these figures shows the total production oi 
silk in Paterson for the ten years past, to have been as follows : 1870, $4,263,260 ; 
1871, $8,017,172; 1872,59,556,700; 1873, $6,977,264 , 1874, $5,217,616; 1875^ 
$7,162,948; 1876, $7,467,756; 1877, $7,454,780 ; 1878, $9,076,968 ; 1879 $13,306,- 
672 ; 1880, 3 months, $4,796,490. 

The following figures represent the silk manufacture of Paterson: 

Number of firms and corporations, 77 

Total number of operatives. , 1 1,465 

Disbursed fortnightly in wages, . . $137)305 

Disbursed annually hi wages, $3,569,930 

Capital in mills and machinery, about $9,000,000 

Number of power-looms,. 2,518' 

Number of hand-looms, .... 1,128- 

Number of throwing spindles, 143,618 

Number of braiding spindles, 52,838- 

Square feet of flooring space used, 1,357,452 

Pounds of raw silk used per year, , 1,289,20a 

Value of finished product per year $13,306,672 

Silk Dyeing : 

Number of firms in addition to private dyehouses, IO 

Number of men employed, 729. 

Amount disbursed in wages per year, $397? ^50 

. Capital invested,. . , about $280,500 

Number of pounds of silk dyed per year, 785,550 

Value of product per year, $4,125,750 

Silk Manufacturers' Supplies : 

Number of firms, , H» 

Number of hands employed, 401; 

Amount disbursed in wages per year, ' $99,710 

Capital invested, about $175,000 

Value of product per annum $235,345 

Recapitulation. 
Number of firms and corporations engaged in silk manufacture 

and its dependencies, '. . 102 

Total number of hands employed, i 2 >599 

Total disbursed in wages per year, $4,066,990 

Total capital invested, $9j955,50o 

The completeness of the above returns is indicated by the fact that they are obtained 
from 29 more concerns than had previously been enumerated as engaged in the silk 
business at Paterson. Hitherto 48 was the highest number attained ; the above list 
has 77. It appears that about one-fourth of the entire population of Paterson is em- 
ployed in the silk mills and their dependencies. 

* Paterson. 



7 8 THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 

Remarkable as are the foregoing statistics of the industry in Paterson, 
they may be paralleled so far as rapid growth is concerned, in the increase 
of silk weaving in Hoboken, Jersey City Heights and neighborhood ; 
and in the very great addition to the number of fringe and dress-trim- 
ming manufacturers in the city of New York. Throughout the entire 
range of the industry, along with the increase in number of small con- 
cerns, there has been frequent enlargement of the mills and facilities of 
the larger ones. With every change of machinery to meet new wants of 
fashion, better goods, of higher order, and more difficult to make, have 
been required, and the products a*e continually improving. Happily, 
there has been no serious attempt in Congress, to interfere by tariff legis. 
lation with the march of improvement in this industry. The absence of 
discussion on this subject at Washington, so far as silk goods are con- 
cerned, is a chief cause of the growth of enterprise in their manufacture. 
While ail — proprietors, operatives and consumers — have benefitted by 
this forbearance on the part of our legislators, it has been of vital impor- 
tance to the smaller manufacturers, since an interruption of business 
would be fatal to their enterprises. 

One of the tables appended to this report shows that the value of silk 
goods manufactured in this country, last year, was nearly $30,000,000. 
On comparing this with the similar table in previous annual reports, it 
■will be found that all branches of the industry except sewings and twist 
have increased their production. 

While the tendency of fashion has been steadily toward more elaborate 
and costly designs, the plainer goods have had comparative neglect. 
These circumstances have compelled not only many changes in ma- 
chinery, but have also brought about, in some instances, a complete 
reorganization of factories. Figured goods of intricate patterns, involving 
variety and richness in colors, are now the rule rather than as formerly 
the exception, and these have obtained fair prices, though as a whole 
somewhat lower than in previous years, or at all events showing no up- 
ward tendency. In wages there has been a small advance, variously 
■estimated as from 5 to 10 per cent. It is noteworthy that this advance 
has taken place in the face of an unusually large immigration of opera- 
tives from Europe. 



THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 79 



Since the date of the last annual Report, death has been busy in the 
ranks of the Association. Mr. Thomas N. Dale was at the time of his 
decease an honorary member. The following resolutions were adopted 
at a meeting held July 22nd, 1879 : 

Whereas, by the death of Mr. Thomas N. Dale, of Paterson, N. J. on July 17th, 
1879, the Silk Association of America lost an Honorary Member, a founder of the 
Association and one of its earliest Vice-Presidents ; and 

Whereas, Mr. Dale was a devoted friend to the entire silk interest of this country, 
and gave to it the benefit of his enlarged views, ripe experience, and special study of 
the subject ; and 

Whereas, Mr. Dale was solicitous for others' welfare rather than for his own, and 
gave freely of his time and efforts in behalf of the industrial classes, to lighten their 
burdens, to improve their prospects, and to procure for them the benefits of technical 
education : it is hereby 

Resolved, That in the death of Mr. Dale, the Silk Association of America has lost 
a valued counselor, and its members an esteemed friend ; and 

Resolved, That we hereby tender to the widow and family of our deceased Brother 
the assurance of our sincere sympathy, while we extend to them the testimony justly 
due, that in his intercourse with us, Mr. Dale won and preserved to the last the repu- 
tation of an active, honest, and upright man. 

The death of Mr. Benjamin B. Tilt took place September 30th, 1879. 
He was one of the earliest members of the Association. 

Mr. Tilt came to this country from Coventry, England, in his 28th year, about 50 
years ago. He began the manufacture of silk in Boston as a member of the firm of 
Tilt & McDowell. On the death of Mr. McDowell in 1843 the firm of B. B. Tilt & 
Co. was formed, and continued to 1847, when it was succeeded by Tilt & Dexter, who 
in 1849 opened a small store in New York. That firm by another change of interest 
and partnership became Dexter, Lambert & Co., and Mr. Tilt started a silk commis- 
sion house in New York. In securing himself against losses in trade, Mr. TiLT 
became the owner of silk throwing machinery in the old Phoenix Mill of Paterson, 
N. J., and this led to his undertaking silk manufacture there, which has since steadily 
increased. 

In 1862 Mr. Albert Tilt, his only son, was taken into partnership, and the firm of 
B. B. Tilt & Son was formed ; the growth of the business in 1863-4 required the use 
of three separate mills — the Phoenix, the Beaver and the Watson. In 1865 a control- 
ling interest was obtained in the Phoenix manufactory, which had before been mainly 
used for cotton, and it was thenceforth devoted to silk. 

Mr. Tilt won a world-wide reputation by liberal displays of machinery and 
manufacture at the Paris and Centennial Exhibitions, and thereby benefitted the whole 
silk industry of this country. His private life was marked by uniform and gentle cour- 
tesy to his associates and by acts of unostentatious charity. 

The death of Mr. William A. Hadden took place April 2nd, 1880. 
The following resolutions were adopted at a meeting held April 13th, 
1880: 

Whereas, it has pleased Almighty God in His wisdom to take away from us our 
most worthy friend Mr. William A. Hadden, who, as a member of the firm of David 



So THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 

Hadden & Co., and of the firm of Hadden & Co., was one of the earliest, truest and 
most liberal friends of the silk trade of America ; who, in all his dealings as a mer- 
chant, was a pattern to all who associated with him, and has left a record which ought 
not to perish ; therefore be it 

Resolved, That we sincerely mourn the death of Mr. Wm. A. Hadden, and acknow- 
ledge it as a loss to the silk trade of America ; and that we place on the records of the 
Silk" Association of America our estimate of his character as an upright man and an 
honorable merchant, and hold it up for imitation. 

Resolved, That an engrossed copy of the foregoing be sent to the surviving member 
of the firm of Hadden & Co. « 

At the annual meeting of the Silk Association of America, held on. 
Wednesday, May 14th, 1879, at No. 44 Howard Street, N. Y., the fore- 
going report was read, accepted, and ordered to be printed. 

WM. C. WYCKOFF, 

Secretary, 



The death of Mr. Robert Hamil, a Vice-President of th'e Association, 
took place September nth, 1880. (Mr. Hamil' s last illness had taken 
a serious form at the time of the annual meeting, and although the final 
event was of a later date, some record of it seems proper in the present 
publication.) The following resolutions were adopted at a meeting held 
September 21st, 1880. 

Whereas, our dear friend and associate, Robert Hamil, has been called away 
from us by death, and 

Whereas, Mr. Hamil has been identified with the silk industry of America for a 
quarter of a century, and was one of the founders of the Silk Association of America, 
and, at the time of his death, one of its Vice-Presidents, and was always in the front 
rank of the advocates and promoters of American industry ; therefore be it 

Resolved, That the Silk Association of America sincerely sympathises with Mrs. 
Hamil and the relatives of our departed friend in their great affliction; that we too feel 
the loss of one who was so much and so constantly with us and whose career was so 
successful and so honorable. 

Resolved, That the silk trade of America has in Mr. Hamil's death lost a wise 
counselor, a long-tried faithful friend, a bold and ever ready champion ; and that we 
proudly hold up as a pattern his business life, as a manufacturer and a merchant, 
marked as it was throughout with inflexible integrity and honor. 

Resolved, That a copy of this preamble and resolutions be engrossed and presented 
to Mis. Hamil. 



Statistics. 

A brief explanation of the following statistics may contribute to their 
usefulness. There are three tables of the imports of raw silk at the ports 
of New York and San Francisco : the quantity that arrives elsewhere 
in the United States is inconsiderable. The number of bales as stated 
in the tables is accurate ; their valuation, as furnished by Custom House 
returns, is probably only approximate. The smaller table of imports of 
raw silk is brought down to a later date than the Secretary's report, and 
indicates the proportion of the supply derived from different sources. 
The chart of raw silk prices shows vividly the great fluctuations in 
the value of that material, though not including the most recent. 

The tables of imports of silk manufactures at the port of New 
York show that in certain lines they are falling off. With the revival 
of general prosperity among consumers, we may, however, expect an 
increase in the importation of all articles of luxury for a few years to 
come. In drawing deductions from the figures of this table, two things 
should be considered ; first, the values assigned are those of the invoices, 
and are made as low by the importers as the Custom House authorities 
will permit; it is believed, in fact, that the goods are largely under- 
valued. The official reports of investigating commissions appointed by 
the U. S. Government have estimated the undervaluation as on the 
average not less than 25 per cent. Second, the duty paid on these 
goods, and the importers' profits, should be added to the invoices, 
in any calculation of the value of these imports in the United States 
markets. Of all the silk goods brought into this country, 94 to 95 
per cent, come to the port of New York. 

The tables of imports of both raw silk and manufactures give them 
by fiscal as well as by calendar years. 

A table is furnished estimating the value of silk goods manufac- 
tured in the United States in 1879. These figures cannot be directly 



82 THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 

compared with those of imported goods for reasons already stated. 
It may be assumed, however, that our manufactories contributed more 
than a third in value of the silk goods used in the country. 

The table of United States imports entered for home consumption 
shows distinctly the sources of the public revenue from Customs duties. 
It will be noticed that silk goods stand third in the list of articles 
contributing to that revenue, and that the greater part of it is drawn 
from few sources. 




THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 

Fluctuations of Raw Silk : 



83 



Upper line, waved, 
Middle line, 
Lower line, dotted, 



Loxdox Prices : bv H. Zweifel & Co. 



Best Italian Organzine. 
Japanese Maibash. 
Chinese Tsatlce III. 

















— ^ 






















VO 

CO 


VO 

CO 


M 

VO 

00 


CO 
VO 

CO 


VO 

CO 


10 

VO 

CO 


vo — r~» 

vo vo.2 

co co A 


-/-CD- 

vo_ 

CO 


At 




CO 


CO 


CO 


CO <* 
C0 CO 


10 VO 

r-* 1-. 
CO CO 


CO 






/ 


















/ 




\ 












l\ 


?. 


d. 












i\ 


/ 




_L 






A 






\ 


46 


,, 












y 


/ 




\ 












1 \ 


45 


6 
























/ 








45 


» 
























( 








44 


6 




















\ 




' 








44 


" 




















s 


/ 










43 


6 


\ 


















\ 


I 


\ 








43 


" 












/ 








\ 


/ 


\ 








42 


6 


\ 


















\ 


/ 




| 






42 


» 


v 










/ 








1 


/ 










41 


6 










( 








1 


/ 










41 


• » 


N 










/ 








\ 


7 




\ 






40 


6 




\ 








1 








1 


1 










40 


)» 




\ 




























39 


6 




\ 










1 


















39 


» 




\ 








1 


i 


















3S 


6 












1 














VI - 






38 


•> 












1 














V 






37 


« 










J 




\) 












\ 






37 


» 
































36 


K 










/ 
















\ 






36 


>. 










/ 


\ 


1 \ 












\ 






35 


6 






Z7 


\ 


/ 




1 \ 




\ 








\ 






35 


» 






/ 


\ 


/ 




\ 




\ 










V 




34 


6 






/ 


\ 


/ 


1 


\ 




\ 










\ 




34 


» 




1 


I 


\ 


/ 


. t 


\ 




\ 










\ 


\ 


33 


6 






/ 


I 


/ 


jt 


1 \ 




\ 










\ 


it 


33 


,, 






/ 


I 


/ 




/ 




\ 










\ 




32 


6 






/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


" 






\ 










1 


32 


» 




\ 


/ 






I 


; \ 






\ 








\ 




31 


6 




\ 


J 






!\ 


/ : \ 






\ • 












31 


„ 












:\ 1 


' \ 






\ 








" 


/ 


30 


6 












/ 1 


; 






\ 




A 




/' 


^az_ 


30 


» 












/ \ 


; \ 




/ 


^ s \ 




/ \ 




1 / 




29 


6 












1 i 






_,' 


V 


^-^ 


/ \ 




\J 




29 


„ 










1 














-^ \ 








2s 


6 










1 


' \ 












\\ 








28 


» 


^ 






V 


I 


t , 












1 


\ 






27 


6 


^ 






\ 


/ 


/ l 












1 


\ 






27 


„ 








\ 


/ 


; 














_L 






26 


6 










/ 


' 










1 


\ 






26 


11 








\ 


/ 












1 








25 


6 








\ 


/ , 












1 








25 


,, 








V 


/ 1 














, \ 






24 


6 










1 
















; \ 






24 


„ 


- s 
























1 \ 






23 


6 






J 


\ 


1 
1 














\ \ 






23 


11 






1 


\ 


1 
















1 \ 


! 




22 


6 




1 


1 




















\ \ 






22 


» 




', 


1 




















\ \ 






21 


6 




1 


, 


























21 


» 




\ 


1 




















\ 


\ 


', / 


20 


6 




\ 


1 




















\ 


\ 


\ / 


20 


„ 




» 
























\ 




19 


6 






J 






















\ 




19 


11 


























\ 


\ 




IS 


6 
























\ 


\ 


/ 


IS 


,, 














i 














\\ ! 


/ 


11 


6 




























V v 


/ 


17 


» 




























\ 1 




16 


6 




























\ 




16 


11 




























\i 




15 


6 




























V 




15 


" 



84 



THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 



CLASSIFIED 

IMPORTS OF RAW SILK AT THE PORTS OF NEW YORK 

AND SAN FRANCISCO. 

From July ist, 1879, to June 30th, 1880. 





From 

England and 

Continent. 


Japan. 


Hong Kong. 


Shanghai. 






BALES. 


BALES. 


BALES. 


BALES. 


1879. 


July, - 


511 


132 


57 


194 


tt 


August, - 


289 


77 


677 


231 


11 


September, - 


164 


281 


611 


455 


(( 


October, - 


179 


480 


686 


810 


(t 


November, - 


200 


3i3 


69 


657 


11 


December, 


IOO 


1,101 


3%3 


2,103 


1880. 


January, 


I50 


610 


187 


851 


<( 


February, 


26 


674 


573 


874 


< ; 


March, 


306 


677 


732 


1,022 


i ( 


April, 


80 


300 


149 


3 68 


I i 


May, - 


95 


3 6 4 


576 


916 


I ( 


June, 


202 


158 


365 


716 


Total 


in Twelve Months, 


2,302 


5,167 


5,065 


9^97 



Compiled by the Secretary of the Silk Association of America. 



THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 



85 



















-1- 


c 




T}- 


CO O 


C\> 


NO 


M 


CO 


rj- 


















t-« 


"«*■ 


NO 


>-l 


HH 


CO 


X 


O 


On 




















n 





co 


CO 


M 








OO 


O 


NO 






W 
































vd 


P 












10 


H- 1 


l>> 


NO 


CO 


I>- 


On 


HI 


rl- 


O 




00 


~ 












=ts= 




ON 


<* 


t^ 


1— 1 


NO 


u~> 


1— 1 


CO 




< 
















1—1 














Tf 




.O 


> 






























=1^ 




Eh 
















































CO 


CO 


Tf 


M 


-* 


NO 


CO 


u-> 


ON 


N 




00 


c/5 












CO 


CO 


CO 


Tl- 


CO 


!>. 


On 


co 


ON 






< 
















CO 




CO 




CO 






LO 








_ 









O 






CO 


r^. hi 


«5f 


VH 


l>- 


LO 


ON 








O 






00 


O 






00 


CO 


t^ 


CO 


ON 


CO 


T»- 


t^. 














On 






r-x 


^1 




CO 


CO 


NO 


CO 


M 






W 


































t-*» 


;d 


On 






Tf- 






10 


M 


rp 


H-l 


HH 


ON 


vO" 


LO 




00 


l-J • 


i-< 














HH 


*-< 


NO 


!>■ 


HH 


CO 


HH 


to 




<! 


^ 


















H-l 










CO 






> 






























=33= 




O 




































H 
NO 






































On 






OO 


M 






O 


NO 


^ 


ON 


CO 


^d- 


LO 


O 




00 


v" 


no 






M 








LO 





CO 


CO 


CO 


On 


CO 


CO 






— 
1-1 

< 




















co 










On 








NO 





CO t^ 


■<*■ 


CO 


lO HI 


CO 


h-l 


«*■ 


M 


CO 








LO 





On t^ 


co 


^*" 


On O 


■^h 


ON 


O 


t-i 


to 








Th 


M 




CO 


O 


CO 


O 







OO 


ON 


^ 


10 






w 




























00* 


^ 


no 


1—1 


<N> LO 


co 


M 


On On 





t^ 


O 


N 


CO 




t-» 


►j 


co 




CO O 


O 


CO 


HH 


r* 


** 


LO 


<M 




LO 




00 


< 


=^= 






M 




»-i 














LO 




w 


> 


























=3* 





































00 


































ON 


CO 


lo t^» 


10 


O 


<N) 


NO 


NO 


ON 


CO 


NO 


NO 




in 


CO 




ON NO 


CO 


LO 





u-» 


ON 


CO 


NO 




O 






P3 








rh 


rt- 


tO 














CO 








ON 


NO 




O 


On 


CO 




CN| 


!>. 


<* 





I>» 








NO 


N 




• O 


NO 


"=*" 







O 





00 


OO 


ON 








LO 


On 




CO 


-* 


>— 1 




t^ 


O 


NO 


co 










W 






























C*N 


p 


t^ 








O 


O 




M 


O 


rh 


CO 


NO 


HH 




t^ 


,-1 


=3* 








1—4 


CO 






co 


t— 1 


■<* 




rt 




00 


< 


























HH 




1-1 


> 


























=«=> 





































H 

00 


































NO 


v© 




hH 


^ 


O 




U~t 


i>» 


On 





•<*" 


CN» 




00 


in. 


M 








CO 


CO 




co 


NO 


cs 





t-^ 


^*" 






— 


























CO 








NO 


CO 


C 


"5 NO 


HH 


CO 


^ 


• "<*• 


O 


ON 


M 


t>* 


NO 








'H- 


1>- 


n 


"N OO 


t!" 


t^. 


CM 





HH 


CO 


CO 


ON 


O 








M 


OO 


U 


-I CO 


** 


LO 


c 


N NO 


<N1 


On 


I>- 


O 


LO 




6 


W 
O 


=££= 


O" 


c 


Jn cnT 


O" 


CO" 


Of 


^ <nT 


NO" 


no" 


no" 


co" 


no" 




00 


H-l 




lo 


c 


HH 


O 


t^ 


£• 


^ )-4 


H-l 




t-l 


<N1 







00 


> 






C\ 


•* 


co 
















CO 




p 

































00 




























■*& 






CS> 


rt- 




rt- 


LO 


OO 


1> 


- O 


O 


O 


«M 


I>- 







in 




NO 


^ 


t- CO 


LO 


CO 


t- 


- !>- 


l/~> 


>-< 


CO 


CN1 


10 












Tj 


1- LO 


O 


co 














ON 
CO 








1 
1 


1 


1 
1 


1 


1 
1 


1 


1 


1 


1 
1 


1 


1 
1 


1 


, 




V 






1 




1 






















































































b 












, 




, 




1 




1 




, 




Z 
































c 
































£ 






1 


a 


) ' 


CD 


•— 




^ ^ 




1 




1 


- 










^ 


rC 


5 »-T 


,0 


-Q 


> 

c 













H 








j 


i 


'J 
t 

< 


1 

3 


3 
h 


a 

a 


S 

2 O 

i 


a 
C 


5 


Q 


^ o3 
O 

•— 

O 


,o~ 


HI 


< 


£ 
% 


O" 

1 1 



- 8 

^ a 

s < 



86 



THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 







£ 


< 




'f 1 


fc 


^ 


o 


R 




S3 


C/J 


W 


H 


Hi 


P^ 


< 
o 


o 




Ph 


H 




H 



i_t i—i a» 







rt- 


O 


O 


vo 


LO 


LO 


CO 


vo 


i-i 


O 


CO 


o 


CO 






t}- 


VO 


CO 


LO 


LO 


ON 


t^ 


ON 


CO 


"**• 


CO 


ON 


rl- , 




H 


CO 


co 


M 


ON 


^ 


CO 


t>. 


LO 


t^ 


CO 


co 


CO 


t^ ' 
































t> 


CO 


h- i 


ON 


VO 


CO 


o 


ON 


CO 


LO 


CO 


l-H 


LO 


t^ 




J 


r-> 


vo 


lO 


ON 


r^ 


o 


CO 


ON 


t^ 


i>^ 


CO 


LO 


CO 




< 


CO 


CO 


VO 


l-H 


** 


lO 


hi 


CO 


VO 


LO 


t^ 


LO 


CO 


10 


f> 


=^= 
























LO 


00 




























*& 


l " 1 
































M 


on 


VO 


O 


CO 


NO 


CO 


CO 


1>» 


LO 


t^ 


ON 


Ci 




C/2 


rh 


CO 


CO 


»-i 


VO 


i— i 


vo 


CO 


CO 


LO 


LO 


"3" 


LO 




« 


vo 


VO 


LO 


rt- 


O 


HH 


CO 


'*■ 


1— 1 


ON 


CO 


o 


LO 




1-1 






























<• 






l-i 




i-i 


l-H 






l-l 




l-H 


HH 


O 




w 
































On 


vO 


on 


M 


0\ 


ON 


CO 


l-l 


«* 


VO 


CO 


CO 


t^ 






o 


VO 


to 


<d- 


LO 


l-l 


IS. 


-=t- 


ON 


1— i 


Th 


LO 


r^ 






o^ 


■3- 


ON 


vo 


t^ 


LO 


O 


LO 


l-l 


VO 


CO 


t>. 


CO 


































P 


LO 


CO 


ON 


CO 


lO 


(-1 


i— i 


LO 


KH 


O 


vo 


VO 


O^ 




►j 


IN 


t^ 


l-l 


LO 


^t- 


o 


LO 


CO 


LO 


CO 


ON 


O 


o 


m 


< 
> 


vo 


** 


LO 


CO 


co 


■* 






vo 


rf 


vo 


O^ 


vc 


vo 


=«J= 
























~ 


Jt^ 


























M 


LO 


CO 




























=^= 




CO 


CO 


L^ 


co 


LO 


M 


co 


lO 


CO 


LO 


VO 


CO 


I>- 




en 


*4- 


LO 


vo 


vo 


ON 


VO 


CO 


ON 


CO 


CO 


r-^ 


1^ 


co 






LO 


(-1 


CO 


LO 


CO 


ON 


HH 


>-i 


co 


t~^ 


ON 


^h 


CO 




H-l 






























<< 


i—( 


l-H 


l-H 












l-l 






l-H 


1— 1 




M 


























M 






VO 


r^ 


VO 


"* 


ON 


ON 


ON 


CO 


VO 


o 


o 


LO 


^r 






o 


^*- 


VO 


t-l 


LO 


ff 


VO 


l-H 


!>. 


LO 


Tt- 


"* 


CO 




« 


LO 


lo 


"tf- 


ON 


LO 


1>- 


NO 


^ 


CO 


VO 


vc 


O 
































P> 


vO 


O 


ON 


CO 


CO 


VO 


h-l 


^t- 


Tl- 


CO 


VO 


LO 


h- 1 




i-l 


vo 


l-H 


t^ 


l-l 


ON 


r-^ 


CO 


co 


vo 


LO 


ON 


CO 


ON 


p 


vO 


oo 


CO 


CO 


"* 


** 


1—1 


CO 


"* 


co 


|-H 


LO 


LO 


1^ 


*8> 
























~ 


!>. 




























lO 


CO 




























=^= 




Tt- 


l-l 


CO 


rt- 


LO 


NO 


LO 


CO 


CO 


CO 


ON 


rh 


co 




trt 


t^ 


!>. 


-* 


co 


t^ 


CO 


ON 


CO 


On 


ON 


CO 


CO 


HH 




h1 


ON 


CO 


CO 


CO 


ON 


oo 


t-l 


vo 


OO 


t^ 


CO 


CO 


On 
































«i 




i— i 


l-H 


















l-H 


ON 




w 
































CO 


t>. 


CO 


On 


CO 


l-l 


LO 


<* 


!>. 


LO 


OO 


^ 


LO 






CO 


CO 


t^ 


co 


rf 


CO 


CO 


!>. 


o 


OO 


Tl- 


Th 


CO 




w 


vo 


O 


LO 


CO 


>-h 


LO 


^*- 


CO 


vo 


O^ 


CO 


VO 


I>» 
































p 


CO 


CO 


VO 


LO 


LO 


vo 


CO 


LO 


CO 


co" 


CO 


hH 


t^ 






CO 


ON 


i-i 


l-i 


o 


CO 


LO 


CO 


LO 


OO 


CO 


LO 


o 


00* 




' "f 


VO 


LO 


^ 


<* 


CO 


CO 


VO 


CO 


ON 


CO 


CO 


t~>. 




























vo" 


00 




























*#= 




O 


o 


O 


ON 


On 


CO 


LO 


^> 


O 


**■ 


CO 


CO 


rh 




t/5 


o 


lo 


t-^ 


ON 


CO 


VO 


h-l 


CO 


vo 


CO 


VO 


CO 


co 






co 


ON 


^ 


ON 


O^ 


ON 


LO 


vo 


CO 


t^ 


ON 


1>- 


i>- 




< 






M 




i-i 








M 


1-1 


1-1 


1-1 


CO 






l rt- 


I>~ 


LO 


t^ 


On 


CO 


■sj- 


CO 


CO 


CO 


CO 


1>- 


CO 






co 


sC 


CO 


.Q\ 


CO 


^h 


)—i 


Tf 


CO 


ON 


CO 


O 


CO 








tJ- 


LO 


vo' 


CO 


^h 


VO 


co 


h-( 


CO 


l-H 


co 


O 




a 






























d 


co" 


CO 


r^ 


vo 


LO 


<*■ 


!>■ 


o 


*-* 


t^ 


LO 


ON 


►H 




j 


o 


o 


CO 


o 


vo 


CO 


ON 


<!*■ 


ON 


CO 


CO 


OO 


CO 




«! 


~ 


CO 


t^ 


t^. 


"t- 


ON 


-* 


vO 


t^ 


l-H 


t^ 


ON 


ON 


on 


> 


=€©= 


_~ 
















M 




HH~ 


ON 


00 




























^= 




CO 


CO 


oo 


CO 


co 


l-l 


"* 


^h 


M 


LO 


ON 


ir^. 


VC 




t/2 


LO 


ON 


LO 


CO 


o 


CO 


ON 


r^ 


CO 


LO 


CO 


CO 


CO 




^ 




Tj- 


CO 


co 


ON 


ON 


OO 


CO 


LO 


l-l 


CO 


NO 


ON 




5 




co~ 




,_r 




._r 




M " 


w" 


N~ 


M 


CO 


ocT 




(Q 


























1-1 








i 




• 




• 




1 




1 




t 








• 




1 




1 




1 




1 




1 




i 








i 




■ 




i 




1 




1 




1 




w5 

X 




. 




1 




1 




1 




1 




1 




i 


H 






























o 










i 




i 




1 




1 








2 






p 

.3 

o 




a, 
< 


1 


a 
»— » 


1 

' — » 


■4-T 
to 

to 

< 


a 

CO 


<u 

■% 

t") 

o 


Vh** 
0> 

£ 

o 
> 
o 


<u 

B 
(J 


O ' 



THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 



87 







CO 


NO 


i-t 





CO 


O 


1-1 


vo 


On 


1-4 


ON 


On 


is. 






t^ 


On 


CO 


Tj- 


CO 


ON 


CO 


vo 


LO 


Th 


LO 


M 


c< 






t^ 


LO 


CO 


CO 


CO 


CO 


HH 


CO 


CO 


vo 


LO 


Th 


1— 1 


vo 

00 


ON 


tC 


Tp 


co~ 


tP 


On 


00" 


On 


hh" 


00" 


tC 


CO 


00" 


hi 


CO 


CO 


CO 


t>* 


N 


to 


CO 


t>* 


N 


LO 


•^t- 


O 


'tf- 


< 


l-H 


CO 


NO 


u-> 


t^ 


in 


vo 


"* 


LO 


CO 


CO 


^* 


NO 




> 






























10 
































CO 





■<*■ 


LO 


Tl- 


NO 


LO 


CO 


CO 


CO 


O 


NO 


O 


r^ 


CO 


NO 


"* 


lO 


LO 


NO 


LO 


LO 


vo 


t^ 


vo 


O 


NO 


NO 


00 


w 


CO 


LO 


l-H 


On 


CO 


O 


to 


l-H 


CO 


LO 


ON 


ON 


NO 




1-1 

M 






~ 


























CO 


M 


rj- 


NO 


CO 


CO 


VO 


->*■ 


vo 


rt- 


ON 


ON 


CN1 






C* 


rt- 


ON 


l-H 


•<* 


to 


O 


CO 












. 


H 


CO 


LO 


l-H 


NO 


NO 


t^ 


LO 


CO 


n- 


CO 


NO 


LO 


co 


t^ 




























00 


O 


N 


LO 


l-H 


Th 


l-H 


On 


VO 


CO 


On 


CO 


ON 


O 


CO 


H-J 


LO 


CO 


LO 


00 





O 


vo 


l-H 


t^ 


CO 


On 


CO 


LO 


<! 


*S= 




VO 


Th 


J>- 


O 


vo 


CO 


CO 


CO 


-* 


-* 


LO 




p» 




























O 

-4-> 

vo 

00 














1— 1 














NO 




























=6©= 




t^ 


LO 


CO 


co 


10 


CO 


■* 


l-H 


CO 


On 


CO 


VO 


LO 


CO 


CO 


ON 


eo 


«* 


CO 


CO 


r^ 


CO 


T*- 


CO 


CO 


"* 


CO 


1-1 


M 


M 


co 


t- 


ON 


-* 


ON 


CO 


co 


CO 


On 


CO 


NO 




< 






1-1 






1-1 




l-H 


HH 








O^ 






On 


CO 


NO 


O 


CO 


ON 


M 


t^ 


^h 


On 


CO 


LO 


ON 






CO 


HH 


fc-s. 


O 


*d- 


"* 


CO 


CO 


^J- 


CO 


^*- 


VO 


NO 


. 


W 


On 


O 


10 


l-H 


On 


CO 


ON 


I>- 


ON 


co 


vo 


CO 


<* 


00 

CO 




























& 


t^ 


t^ 


O 


to 


"* 


CO 


Tt- 


t^ 


■* 


LO 


t^ 


On 


CO 


i-l 


CO 


CO 


t>. 


lo 


rj- 


ON 


CO 


On 


•* 


l-H 


O 


vo 


CO 


<J 


>-t 


CO 


-* 


CO 


1— 1 


LO 


"* 


■* 


vo 


LO 


rf 


CO 


CO 




■4-> 

CO 

l-H 


P> 


=S8= 
























^ 
=€5= 




<* 


C<1 


LO 


Is 


rh 


NO 


rt- 


On 


CO 


On 


•* 


co 


On 


CO 

W 


co 


On 


O 


On 


CO 


CO 





LO 





ON 


CO 


bs, 


LO 


CO 


vo 


ON 


t^ 


CO 


CO 


CO 


ON 


CO 


ON 


0^ 


CO 


"* 




< 












l-H 






t-H 




l-H 




O 




PQ 
































10 


tJ- 


t-^ 


10 


CO 


t^ 


"* 


t^ 


LO 


t^ 


ON 


co 


M 






CO 


t^ 


O 


00 


ON 


CO 


CO 


VO 


CO 


On 


CO 


rh 


CO 






"* 


l-H 


CO 


ON 


On 


"<* 


l-H 


^h 


LO 


NO 


CO 


**■ 


«* 


On 
CO 


w 




























£> 


CO 


t^ 


CO 


CO 


O* 


On 


CO 


co 


1>« 


NO 


LO 


Tj- 


CO 


1-1 


LO 


CO 


NO 


ON 


O 


CO 





O 


CO 


O 


VO 


co 


CO 


<5 


M 


CO 


NO 


CO 


O 


CO 


l-H 


CO 


t>- 


t^ 


Tj- 


On 







*> 


=€6= 




























CO 
CO 


























CO 




























*& 




LO 


t^ 


NO 


CO 


CO 


ON 


CO 


CO 


CO 


co 


CO 


m 


CO 


CO 


l-H 


CO 


t>. 


VO 


ON 


ON 


LO 


On 


LO 


CO 





CO 


CO 


W 

h-1 

< 


LO 


NO 


CO 


£^ 


ON 


vo 


| -' 


ri- 


CO 


CO 


On 


On 











i-T 


i-T 


i_T 


l-H 




n"" 


i-T 


i-T 




>_r 


no" 




n 


























M 






ON 


N 


00 


t^ 


Th 


** 


O 





LO 


CO 


LO 





CO 






CO 


O 


CO 


HH 


O 


CO 


ON 




CO 





t^ 


CO 


CN1 






CO 


On 


10 


NO 


10 


CO 


HH 


10 


CO 


t^ 


LO 


cs 


CO 


O 


W 




























CO 


D 


"* 


10 


Is 


NO 


NO 





NO 


O 





1^ 


l-H 


l-H 


CO 


CO 


iJ 


On 


CO 


CO 


CO 


l-H 


CO 


N 


t^ 


On 


N 


t^ 


NO 


CO 




«: 


** 


NO 


!>. 


hH 


t^ 


On 


O 


HH 


CO 


LO 


O 


t^ 


NO 




> 


=^= 



































1—1 




►"• 


>~* 


M 


w 




w 




M 


On 
CO 




























^fc 




10 


NO 


CO 


lo 


M 


ON 


CO 


|_| 





On 


CO 


LO 


no" 


CO 

W 
i-l 


CO 


NO 


t-H 


CO 


CO 


NO 


ON 


CO 


CO 


CO 


^h 


co 


>-H 


CO 


CO 


10 


•H 


CO 


VO 


t^ 


HH 


t^ 


CO 


On 


<* 


NO 






l_P 


*_T 


co" 


i_r 


CO 


^M 


c<f 


CO*" 




H-T 


^ 


i-T 




PQ 


























CO 






1 




1 




1 




1 




1 




, 




1 








1 




» 




• 




1 




1 




1 








1 




1 




1 




1 




1 




1 




, 


V 


j 




























a 






1 




1 




1 




• 




1 




1 




e 


1 




























2 




















1 










c 


! 






M* 




»-T 


CD 


1 












£ 








CD 


»-T 




,0 


b 

d 

a 
1 — » 


b 




1 




1 


- 






'a 


CO 

CO 

< 


a 

CD 

c/3 


O 

c 


a 

CD 

> 

O 


a 

CD 

CD 
CD 

ft 


S-H 

CD 


O 


'£h 

Oh 
< 




cd" 

1 — » 


3 


H 



S8 



TH- S LK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 



o 

fa 
o 

H 

O 
fa 

fa 
ffl 
H 

<: 

en 
fa 
fa- 
t3 
H 
U 

Si 

a 

t— I 
OT 

fa 

o 

B 

o 

Ah 





' 


ci 


m o <t "-, fi c w vo 


— t-^ 


VO rO i- 


o 


vo r O u-, CO 1^ CO 


VO 








vo 


CN i-i CI N N K C W 


C^ vo 


Cl vo Z^ 


^,- 


VO VO CO M O tJ- 


N 








vo 


CO 1 n CI t^> n n 


CO O 


VO CO O 


vo 


vo vo O VO "3- vo 


CI 


























o 


vo" 


CO O VO CI o f^ 


CO o 


^ O M 


-r 


^t- CO vo CO O t-^ 








t->. 


vo 


n 01 CO C ■**■ VO 


CS i-i 


t>. IN 


co 


i-i CO CI vo !-■ CO 


CO 






GO 


O 

5= 


^- CO W w CO^ 'T 








— OO 


vo" 
CI 

=!ft 








VO 


O N — OO -t O iO 


O VO 


ci r-^ . 


i^ 


O vo co N 00 CN 


o 








■^r 


O 0C vo vo G M" CO N 


CO CO 


CO CO 




G vo « CO O CO 










M 


O CI ^ n Ol>-CNVO 


CO HH 


CO CO 


OC 


CI vo O i-i O fN 


t^ 




























o 


MO N fT lO n n 


Ttf- HH 


vo O • 


Tj- 


O vo CI tj- vo O 


o 








VO 


i-i o ^o o\h m 


l-l CO 


CO CO 


irj 


CO , C C C CO 


o 






oo 


VO 


CO -^ C, NM m 








i-i O O vo to 


00, 








co 
=^ft 


w n eT 








W Tf 


CO 








i_ 


co n . vo O O M vo O N 


CI N . 


_ 


VO O Tt- O CI vo 


o 








O 


O Cl CO O O vo CO 


CO CO 


Tt" vo 


cs 


O O ^ N O U 


^r 








o 


CI CO 


n co • 


VO 


CO O vo i-i co N 


i^ 


























CO 


o 


■f o • o CI *-. CO 


O t-» 


CO CO • 


VO 


*tf- m * N to ro 


n 






CO 


n to o »-i O i 




i~^ M 


vo 


CO vo Tf O vo !->. 


i^. 






<0 


CO ^t * CO VO CO IN 








O t^ CM 


vq^ 




























M 


MOO M 




• 




w VO 


cT 








4ft 


• 




• 






CO 

4ft 








o 


^j. u-i w n CO O M "3" 


vo vo 


CO CI . 


_ 


CO i-i vO 1^ 1^ i-i 


CI 








>-o 


01 r-» o M ■<*■ ^- n •**■ 


^r o. vo vo 


CO 


C) »i O vo t-» i-i 


CN 








VO 


vo LO Ifl r}- m O VO C 


CO CO VO CO 


rr 


co vo O O O vo 


CO 


























CO 


<*■ 


vo n i-i oc O O m 


vo O 


vo vo . 


to 


O w co O Tl- to 


o 






CO 


VO 


O N CI OC -f VO 


■St- 


i-i CI 


vo 


rj- CO CO O VO 


N 






t» 


M vo M CO N O 








C vo O^ 


co 




























O 


Tj- M 








W rf 


r}- 








4ft 












CN 
4ft , 








OO O o vo — n n rr 


l-l l-l 


o ^- . 


N.CC a C) N 


|H 








O 


VO CO CI Tj- CO rf CO CI 


VO N 


CO vo 


o 


vo O CI VO vo O 


VO 








CN 


i^cOVOOi-ivOwCI 


l-l VO 


N N . 


"* 


CN CO CO vo O CO 


VO 






4 

CO 






















0'-'cst^r-«0C0Hi 


CO O CO 


N 


VO N CO VO VO CO 


CI 






CO 


in t ci co co o 


CN 


CO CO 




CS CO CO N N 


o 






m 


CI VO n O i-i !>. 








C ^CO - 


CI 




























o 


M CO M 








w CO 


CO 




















CI 








4ft 












4^= 








N 


i-iOvO M N h in o 


>-i CI 


oco . 


OC 


O 1-^ vo i- -sf O 


CO 








o 


O O M M CI N »0 OCC CI 


CO VO 





O VO vo O vo OO 










CO 


VOCO m N ^f" M OVO 


OVO 


VO CO . 


vo 


N tO lO N C O 








vrj 




















o 


t^ O O vo m <f O 


i-i vo 


i-i N . 


tO vo 


00 




c<T 


CO 


O N n M vo CO CO 


*>. "<*■ 






* M O M i-i 


o 




VO 


>-< ^t "I M O O^ 




rj- w • 




CI Tf CO 


























IS 










^ M 


to 








4ft 






• 






CN 

4ft 








CN 


CO N . 00 O N O 


i-i CI 


i- rh CO 


N OO N to •* to VO 


VO 








0\ 


On vO vo CO "T 


CO 1- 


N CNN 


CI 


i-i vo CO i-i CI h< 


00 










<t M . C * ION . 


co oo 


CI CI VO 


■sj- VO vo OO N OO CO 


to 






CO 




















N 


h M- . io rt-NOO 


VO o 


O vo 


C) 


vo O tf vo if O 


IN 






o 


Tj- O CO CO CO ^ 


CI 


vo rf 




UO hi VO vo to H 


o 






N 


vo * co co m • 








ON M O 










4ft 


H H W • 








cT 


IN 








VO 


vo ir, n n in n O O 


i-i o 


N CI 




00 ~ t>. ~ co O 




. 






CO 


OO « n O h co M 


i-i CO 


N CO 




CI VO CO O CO M 


5:- 










N OC N CO ^-O O 


VO HI 


t^ o . 




i-i n t-^ 1- O l>» 


N 






CO 




















co 


VO i^ M co O O CO CN 


lO i-i 


VO o . 




't h CO VO CI CO 


CVl 






N 


MO N VCO iO 


"tf 


VO ">*■ 




CO OO -f CO O 


M 






o 


CO O^ O^ wi 








M 11 <JN 


O 








l-l 

=5: 


M H M 










o 

4ft 








M 


o i- rh co C oc vo . 


o ~ 


CN -i 




vo (.1 CO vo O O 


o 








CO 


i-i CO O O ^ CO o 


— •- 


■rf vo 




L-O f ") to VO C^<D 


CO 








O 


M CI CO i-i CI CO CI • 


vo O 


O 1^ . 




c\o o o co o 


N 


























CO 


rt- 


ON w C O i- • 


vo CI 


- OC 




: : : n vo -> 


CN 






CO 


CO 


VON O i- CI CI 




c ^r 




^- v.~, ro co CO 


^r 






CO 


CO i-i vo CO O * 


I- 1 








o 








l-l 


Hi l-l 








i-T 


o" 








4ft 












a 








VO 


N M vO 1^- CO 0„ CT 


3 — 


— oc 




r-- 'O co oc ii 


c 








CM 


v~^ vO O- CO CO vO"' o 


N OC 


- :: • 




Ov O vo O o vo 


cq 








O vo O. o ^- - M o% • 


i- CI 


^- vo • 




O n N IN N VO 


CO 


























O 


<*■ 


N vo »h vo O O O 


— vo 


VO Th • 




C — 'O VO fN 


O 






N 


o 


O CO c-J v~^ CO vo 


►1 CI 


« vo 




-y ■— — uo vo 


CO 






00 




N Tj- 1-H O -^ O^ . 








i- CO — ' O 


CO 






M 


VO 

*ft 


h ci m" ; 








M tvf 


vo 






s 


■ 


1 1 1 1 
■ 1 1 1 

III! 

1 1 1 1 


1 

I 


t ■ 

i 
I i 


' 


,'.',' 


■ 






- 
u 
(-, 
pi 
< 


: 


1 1 1 

i i i ■ J5 

: ^ 1 ^ CJ 


1 


• .a ■ 


in 


- ^ o .S 

. % ^ r ° ^ 

C/! ri u fl N; 


n 








L73 


Satins, 

Crapes, 

Tongcc 

riushes 

Velvets 

Ribbon 

Laces, 

Embroi 


r/T „r 
? > 

rt ^O 


Cravats 
Handlci 

Mantill 


t.o 

t/J 
V 

> 


Hose, 
Sewing 
Braids : 
Silk an 
Silk an 
Silk an 


§ 





THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 



89 





ON^O • t^ COCO in 


no rhNO no co *h 


O l-< ON CO *-* NO 


NO 




CMS ■+ . !>. O O « 


inroNNb 


"-" O -+ co On CO O 


in 


no 


tr^vo O . N in N t^. 


O VC CO CO moo Tt- rh NO CO ci c-« 


CO 










t^ 


00 i>-no • N c^c 


»>> -t- -hco 


rh inNC On in t^. 


NO 


CO 


■st-NO »-i 'OO O -t^ 


CO CO ON 


in 1-1 On t^ 1>- 


O 


M 


CO Tj- . M I>- N 


*-• 


On 11 O 


C< 


1 

in 


cT • t-T cnT m 




esT 


C<T 


00 


** ! 






cq 




• 










N O <t h " NrtOOOO O h\0 00 • 


NO mvo On cq no in 


in 


• 


h-i NO •-" CO COCO CO co vo in ono t^ • 


M 00 in -3- NO M in 


CO 




N "^-O tJ- f*. !>. t^ C» -^"NO >nO N 


no co ^j- in co to 


in 








CO 


t-^co nn 000 <t ro in O 1-1 t^ • 


m t-H in n 1-1 csi t^ 


On 




ThNi-H CO On N CO CO UTO • 


tn CO On ^t- On 


O 


7 


no in comO , 


Oh O 


t-N. 


NO 


(Vj 1-1 hT M a 


N~ 


O" 


CO 


£ : 

t 




cq 




CO>nOO« s Ol^«>>l>.Nt-»0»-i«0 ■ 


• no rt- On hh in On 


M 




NO CO rt-OOVD t*- t^- CO in in l>-CO N 




CO CO O M O VO 


NO 


00 


On O O m ON inNO <t I^O ONCO ON 




NO On N 11 t-i ON 


NO 










CO 


>-T CO "^ N M* O" Tp H H Tp CO H 




in in On in cq cq 


CO 


M 


OO (ON in CO rj- NO OnO^- 




rJ-CO M co in 


!>. 


1 


N CO N\0 O ■-» , 




M M CO 


O 


]>. 










!>. 


l-l i — 11 — I »— ( « 




M M 


ON 


CO 


** ! 






=^= 




vo ir»T}-vo NO\NO • CO CO inCO 


• no co M tnco m 


CO 




OO'+CM^NinCO . t^OO in ^j- 




ThNO ■<*■ On m w 





On 


t^ t^ I>. On NO OO n m . On rt- to N 




NO in O ON O CO 


o\ 


t^. 










CO 


NtO* m O fOinrh • OnnO hh t-^ 




O On cq CO rt- 


CO 


M 


t>.«CO COi-iONTt-. O N * 




. vo in O m<f 


cq 


1 


COi-h-^- M NonO\ . *-**-* 




O »-< M 


O 


CO 










I>» 


CO M M • 




M N 


CO 


CO 


• 










in d 1- NvCO t^t>- 'CO InNO tO 


• NO in rf tJ- COCO 


On 


d 


-+ OsNm NCArj- h . O VO On CO 




■ Osh t-t co On On 


O 


I-HLOOC<J|-IC<II-HO . 0\N 0\H 




in cq t-i -rt- J>> co 


in 


CO 










CO 


no co N co N N in in * cocoNin 




'no (ONinco 


NO 


1— 1 


OnnO in h O NO\ • h n m\o 




• O O O CO HH 


On 


1 


NO N Tf N N CAN . N H 




H COINmOO 


in 


On 










I>- 


NO M M t-l . 




> M CO 


O 


CO 


5- : : 






CO 




1 1 1 1 1 1 1 


l l 1 1 






1 1 1 1 1 ■ 1 


1 l 1 


1 




■ 1 1 1 1 1 1 


1 l 1 1 






iiiii*i 


' «r ' 


1 


CO 

W 




00 




■ 1 • 1 1 1 1 






H 

< 


■ 1 1 ■ ■ •*< 

1 1 1 1 <u 1 £ 


id Bind 
Worste 
Cotton, 
Linen, 


1 


1 1 ^ 1 <U 1 1 v 


3 




V* «T ^ Zf 3 .. <U Cv 


g£ w ei T3 TD Td 

." " TD ran™ 




H 








> 


O ^ C3 ^ r^ ^ 

H-i *r " r^ ^J 





EXPORTS OF SILK MANUFACTURES FROM FRANCE. 

TOTALS FOE 50 TEATS. COMPILED FE03I OFFICIAL RECORDS. 



VALUES IN MILLIONS OF FRANCS. 


Years. 


Plain Silks. 


Figured 

Siiks. 


1 Mixtures of 
i Silk wirh 
other Textile 


Silk 
Ribbons. 


Sundry 
Silk Goods. 


Total Silk 

of 
• all kinds. 




Millions. 


Millions. 


Millions. 


Millions. 


Millions. 


Millions. 


1827 


51.8 


19.7 


4.0 


24-4 


I5.9 


II5.8 


1828 


5I.O 


18.3 


4-8 


27.5 


13.8 


II5.4 


1829 


46.I 


17-4 


6.8 


26.5 


!4-3 


III. I 


1830 


5i-3 


19.0 


5-9 


22.9 


I2.0 


III. I 


183I 


59.6 


17.8 


4-7 


24.3 


I2.9 


"9-3 


1832 


5i-3 


17.7 


5-i 


28.2 


9-5 


106.8 


1833 


69.4 


21.4 


4-7 


30-7 


12.7 


138.9 


1834 


53-4 


17-7 


4-7 


2 3-3 


13.0 


112. 1 


i$35 


63-3 


24.7 


5-9 


33- 2 


17-3 


144.4 


1836 


59-9 


24.7 


5.8 


32.8 


16.9 


140. 1 


1837 


38.2 


12.9 


5-4 


22. 4 


11. 4 


9°-3 


1838 


60.3 


21.3 


3-9 


34-6 


19-3 


139.4 


1839 


59.8 


25.1 


5-2. 


35-3 


15-4 


140. 8 


1840 


60.4 


28.8 


6.6 


29-3 


16.8 


141. 9 


1841 


61.4 


40.2 


8.9 


34-2 


17-4 


162. 1 


1842 


43.8 


28.5 


8.4 


19.8 


11. 6 


112. 1 


1843 


48.8 


34-2 


8. 7 


23.8 


14. 1 


129.6 


1844 


54-3 


33-o 


11. 1 


3i-i 


14.2 


143-7 


1845 


50.0 


34.8 


11. 5 


31.6 


13.0 


140-9 


1846 


53-i 


3M 


10.9 


35-i 


16.4 


146.6 


1847 


54-2 


33-2 


11. 1 


36-3 


14.2 


149.0 


1848 


60.3 


18.2 


8-3 


41.7 


10.8 


J 39-3 


1849 


84.4 


29.2 


12.6 


50.4 


16.2 


192.8 


1850 


104.0 


32.5 


18.3 


68.8 


22.9 


246.5 


1851 


113. 6 


27-7 


14.4 


55-8 


28.1 


239.6 


1852 


121. 9 


34.o 


16.8 


75-5 


3i-5 


279.7 


1853 


i5i-7 


44-4 


28.6 


in. 8 


32.8 


376.3 


1854 


122.0 


33-7 


23.0 


96.6 


36.0 


3 XI -3 


1855 


141. 7 


39-2 


19=0 


116.8 


41.6 


358.3 


1856 


178.8 


72.0 


18.9 


i3i-9 


52.3 


453-9 


1857 


170.6 


75-5 


24.7 


112. 4 


52.3 


435-4 


1858 


156.2 


57.o 


22.9 


95-5 


47-° 


37S.6 


1859 


201.2 


66.1 


41.6 


136.8 


54.2 


499.9 


i860 


212.8 


49-6 


63-9 


70.3 


58.2 


454. & 


1861 


162.3 


26.5 


59.2 


44-3 


41.0 


333-3 


1862 


I 93- 1 


29.6 


59-7 


47-3 


33-8 


363-5 


1863 


221.4 


3°-3 


33-i 


49-i 


36.4 


370.3 


1864 


270. 1 


24.3 


25.2 


47-4 


41.2 


408.2 


1865 


289,7 


I2 -3 


17. 1 


67.2 


42.2 


428.5 


1866 


309-9 


7.0 


15.0 


88.2 


47-6 


467.7 


1867 


293.8 


9-i 


18.4 


61. 1 


40.0 


422.4 


1868 


3*3-3 


7-6 


21.0 


56.8 


43-o 


452.7 


1869 


312.9 


3-7 


I 59 


77-5 


37-3 


447-3 


1870 


351.7 


4.0 


J 9o 


64.6 


45.2 


485.0 


1871 


316.3 


4-3 


15.6 


113. 6 


33- 2 


483.0 


1872 


3*7-8 


1.8 


*9-5 


5i-4 


47-2 


437-7 


1873 


35i-5 


2-7 


2 3-i 


55-4 


45-8 


478.5 


1874 


323-0 


*-5 


11. 9 


42.1 


37-5 


416.0 


1875 


278.8 


4.3 


19.6 


34-6 


39-3 


376.6 


1876 


197.7 


7-5 


2 7-5 


20.2 


42.8 


295.7 


1877 


153-6 


7.4 


36.6 


19.2 


58.3 


275- 1 



THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 91 

Silk Manufacture 

IN THE UNITED STATES. 

PRODUCTION OF FINISHED GOODS, 

In the Calendar Year ending December ji, 1879. 



Machine Twist, - -"" 


$ 5. 8 9 I J 3°° 


Sewing Silk, ------ 


778,250 


Floss Silk, ------ 


166,935 


Dress Goods, - 


3> 8 9 6 o 2 5 


Satins, ------- 


1,100,175 


Tie Silks and Scarfs, - 


547,675 


Millinery Silks, ------ 


977-495 


Broad Goods not above enumerated, 


538,655 


Handkerchiefs, ------ 


3,583-125 


Ribbons, ------ 


5,535,205 


Laces, ------- 


406,300 


Braids and Bindings, - 


828,255 


Fringes, Dress and Cloak Trimmings, - - - 


3,590,860 


Cords, Tassels, Passementerie and Millinery Trimmings, 


93 ,54o 


Upholstery and Military Trimmings, - - - 


947,405 


Coach Laces and Carriage Trimmings, 


23,470 


Fur, Hatters' and Undertakers' Trimmings, 


62,810 


Embroideries, - 


54,900 


Silk Value in Upholstery and Mixed Goods', - 


123,750 




$29,983,630 


RECAPITULATION. 




Sewings, Twist and Floss Silk, - - $ 6,836,485 




Broad Goods, - - - 7,060,525 




Handkerchiefs, Ribbons and Laces, - 9,524,630 




Trimmings and Small Goods, - 6,438,240 




Silk Value in Mixtures, - - - 123,750 


. 


$29,983,630 





Compiled by the Secretary of the Silk Association cf America. 



92 



THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 



en 


ON 




IS 




oo 


A 


1-1 


P-l 


sf 


H 


H 

n 


i — i 


CO 


£ 


5 


D 


H-^ 




o 


W 


SB 






hh 


P 


HH 


55 




W 


— 






P^ 




<J 


fT H 


w 


n 


>H 




H 




sn 


C/J 


H 


H 


(4 




O 


rt 


fe 


PL, 


fc 




O 






r^ 


H 




Pi 


. — 1 


B 




^> 




V) 


rl 


£ 




O 


£ 


O 


i — i 


K 




s 


K" 1 


o 


<! 


K 



Proportion 

of Total 

Duties, 

Per Cent. 


co o ^ coco O OVO CO hi 
co >-. i^CnO Onh is lo co 


inNfONOOOO cono co O O O 
co On IS ^ co CO O N N NvO \C 


O i-O i-^-foroN N CO 

C^H M 


CO l_| _ hi _, hi ,_, 




Duty re- 
duced to 
Ad Valorem 
Per Cent. 


■^t- Lo ISCO N OCnOnNOn 


m CMS OnCO CO O 


O LO LO hi tJ- 


tJ- hi OCO CO i^ ^- N O X 

LONO LO CO COCO NCOCON 


On tJ- On IS co co O 

CO CO CO LO CO tJ- r^- 


loco coco is 


Tariff. 


T3 'd'^rs'O 

Cj ^ O rf d) u u 

.% z .*; .*: - ■* - ~ 
fa ri fa ri fa 


ri o ri 

rt fi ri 


specific, 
mixed, 
ad val. 
specific. 




rtf- MO LO O NO O LO LONO loco lo co ^t- O NNi^n coco O 

CO CO CO LOCO CO CO NO m MD O CO OCO CO tS CO LO CO LO Tf CO 

IS O ONCo" 6 CO NO COhIiCO 6 hi 6>C0 IS r^- CO Hi H OO hA Is 

LO ^ O LO LO On t^ ON O ThCO is ^ co coco h o Th rJ-OO <t 

Oncoco co is lo On o NcnN-t mO com co is co tJ-hiNO 

O lono"no" co co" "d- -T co lo Tp d" On hTco" k-T\o~ On co" coco"co" 
CO O hi Is tj- On LOCO COCO O CO OnOnO hi is hi IS CON 0\ 
coco O LortHi cono rj-O Ono coco NlsroO On Onco Is 



OCO rf NO LOLOThCOCOCOCOCO CO 



LOISCOISLOOnLOhi O t^LOCOCOrJ-O i- NO LO LO rf- ON 

NO GO tJ- On hi hi O CONO i-NN O LO ^ On ON O NO COOnco 



tJ- CO t^ CO CO LOCO CONO CO CO t^- 
NC^O LOhi Is LO CO ISCO ON O 

Nhoo ^- loco co t^-cx) On co co 



LO CO Hi IS hi IS IS LONO rh 

t^-cohinoOOO^COO 
O ON^-iscois^cocoO 

IS CO o" co 0\ o" LO t£oo" co" lo co" O * "-T t£ h-T CO hi"co" Tp LO 

ISLOCOCO^-LOISONISO ON CO ^ CO On t^- tJ- hi NO ISCOCO 
O LONO ONHi QnONO hi COCO LOISCO rj- Q Tj" ONNO Ch H O 



rh O cono NO no lo On 

IS CO CO HI HI 

=33= 



O O N N CO N 't CO N hi COCOH1 



o 



O T3 
^ ri 



fcp o 



CD 


Hj 


p 


„ 


hi 


5 


u 

ri 


3 


a 


£ 












u 


2 


£ 


o 


ri 

a 


s 


ri 




— 

tr. 


d 

a 
< > 




n 


r. 




ri 


K/ 


o 


X 


•— 

'a. 


JO 

c 


lo o - 


C/3 t- 1 



S d ^ 

t S~! a" 

^ w - s ^ 

^ ^ ^ s 

C o C rt 
d 'g ri j^> 



u 



Pn-i ph 



fa <v 



a S 

en 

ri oi 
<u _ri 

WO 



^ S 

<u" P 

Oh <" 

H^ 3 



11 

o 
SO 






11 



o 

<i-T 

fa <Z2 



ri 

8 if! 

Oh> j^ ri 

c^ !> PP co 



THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 



93 



trj 


_ 


CO CO O 





O QO 


C^VO 


T*- 


-* 


CI 


o 


J\NCO 


CO 


j _ l 


M 


O CO oo 


t^ 


t^ 


O 


n 


"* 


<* 


CO 


CO 


CO 


CO 


CO 


0-1 


CO 


CO 


CI 


CO 


CI 


co 























O 


LO 


o 





C 


O 


o 


O 


o 


O 


o 


O 


o 


3 


o 








O 


o o 


o 


O 


O 





o 








o 




o 
o 


t». 





COOO 


O 


o 


CO 


co O 


rt- 


CO 


CO 


os 


t-> 


CO 


t>- o 


co 


t-s 


co 


Tf- 


^ 


vo 


co 


1>- 


O 


CO 








o 


-t- 


o 


lo 


O 


_ 


O CO 


1^ 


COVO 


vo 


-h 


M O 


CI 


Os 


\r, 


t^ o 


io 


O 


C<l 


CO 


-t- 


CO 


N 


-«*• 


<M 


co 


CO 




Co 


-<*■ 


CO 


CO 




CO 


coo 


CO co 


C) 


CO 


CO 


■* 




CO 


co 


co 


CO 


Tj- 



C3 CC 





— • 


d ^ ^-' 


""O 73 "3 


5 


.„ > o > 








> 


o X 


X! ~ 


ax S 


X x - 




^rt G rt 


s 


la's 


als 


T3 
03 



VO OC -+0 sfr w co ^ t-^ l>« l>~o lo O lo 


O co 


H 


co O O 


O *+ LO 


OS co 


CO 


l-l CO O O COON^O | -' OS OS TJ- OSCO ON Th 


CO "tf" 


CI 


«*■ 


~ O 


t^ t>. t-» 


CO LO 


CO 


hoo coco loco O oo inO\inO os co co tj-oo ++ 


1- 


co 


LO «* 


Tf" t^ OS 


OS LO 


rf 


CO <t HVOOOO CON-t COCO tJ- CMninin 


t^ CO 


co 


CO 


t^co 


oo Nin 


t^ ^ 


CO 


MOO ^ LOO LO LOOO CO rf CO OsO CO ^ HH 


CO HH 


i>« 


o. 


LO O 


HH VO O 


O Os 


C) 


















l-H VO O^O O Nln N CO LOCI t^-vO 'it- t>- ■<*■ 


t^ o 


() 


COCO vo 


y-i * vo 


CO LO 


Os 


N>+ fOfOO ON ON 1>~0 LO CO hH GO VO Th CO 


t^o 


LO 


<* 


co O 


O OSCO 


OO l>- 


LO 


LOLOrJ-rJ-T^-COCOCOCOCOCOCOCO CO CO CO 












o^ o 

HH M~ 

CO 


co 
co 


M COX) ■+ OC N^" -tCX -+LOLOO t^ 


O !>• 


r^ 


o 


t^ O 


O h-. oo 


o -+- 


■*t- 


CO loco lo O vo O O Os t^co rt-o hh OM3 


co O 


LO 


LO 


LOCO 


Osvo SO 


I>> CO 


Os 


HHI-iCO'rl-l-l^j-Ti-COCO OSCO LO LO LO CO CO 


^-VO 


-T 


c^ 


LO CO 


VO* VO* I>» 


-* d 


OS^CO i-i LOO O LO hh GO N OO OO LOCO l-H 


CO >-< 


-h 


Cl 


OS OS 


I>-CO LO 


^ o 




CO CO l-H OS LO OSCO CO HH CO CO LO i-H OWO CO 


co O 


Os 


CO 


co O co O co 


rt-GO 


CO 


















COrfON'^-LO^-LOLOt^vO'OOO O OS -r?-SO 


O O 


r^ 


c^ 


co o 


f> CO ^ 


^ o 


CO 


1>~ COCO VO COCOI>-rhO COCO t^CO HH CO O 


Os mh 


() 


C) 


OS LO 


OS LOSO 


LO OS 


«+■ 


t^C-»0 NCOmOO N CM3NH CO NN COCs 


LO t^ 


LO 


^r 


co O 


CO ^t- CO 


rt- co 


I>- 


















COCOi-hi-hi-hi-iCOi-h M N 












O vo 

Os 

CO 


vo 

OS 

CO 



a -a 



C o 



■r. 



a 



v> o 
B > 



03 zn 

cn tc--o 

II s 



CO 

» § ^ 

Ph P3 c^ 



of ' £ 

o c 

o: ^ - 

rt oo ^ 

l! 

. - o 



CO HH 



— > ' ^ O J2 G >^ 



03 — ! 



^rinUKO 



J4 v. 

o o 



G 

•a .2 

'co '> 
G O 



i ■£> 


1 co 


O 


o 






sj 


XJ 




1 o 


G 2 


lS5 

G 


'5 ° 


- G 


rtvj 


, o 2 


^^ 


<^ a 


C3 j2 


ngs, 
and 


42 w 


h£o .b 



f,§ 



co t-( 

-Q 03 
03 



a 








o 












fH 


, p" 


03 


g 


O 


o 


^2 


H 


<TS 












G 




*o 





^^ f -;O^PhK>P; 



AMERICAN 



SILK GOODS 



DIRECTORY. 



INCLUDING SILK MANUFACTURERS, DEALERS IN 

SILK MANUFACTURES, AND RAW SILK 

IMPORTERS AND BROKERS. 



Compiled by Wm. C. Wyckoff. 



1880 



The present directory has fewer errors than its predecessors, but is 
still, doubtless, incomplete. Its compiler will be greatly obliged, if 
notice is sent to him of errors or omissions and of r changes in firms, 
companies or agencies ; as such informationjmay be utilized hereafter. 

44 Howard Street, 

New York. 



AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTOR! 

SILK MANUFACTURERS, AND DEALERS IN SILK MANUFACTURES. 



CALIFORNIA 



*Bel cling Bros. & Co. (See BocJcville, Conn.) 565 Market Street 

San Francisco. 

The California Silk Manufacturing Co. Kodgers, Meyer & Co. F. 

Habenicht, Treasurer; H. M. Hale, Secretary. Machine Twist, 

Sewing Silk, Embroidering Silks and Tram. Agent : Robert 

R. Yates, 585 Market Street San Francisco. 

Mills, cor. of 11th Avenue and P. Street, South San Francisco. 

California Trimming Co. Gaeth & Roehrigs, Proprietors. Dress 

and Upholstery Trimmings. 727 Market Street. . . San Francisco. 

Carlson & Currier, Agents for Belding Bros. & Co. (See BocJcville, 

Conn.) 565 Market Street San Francisco. 

Columbat, Mrs. A. Dress Trimmings. 104 O'Farrell Street 

San Francisco. 
* Cutter, John D. & Co. (See Newark, N. J.) Salesroom, Palace 

Hotel San Francisco. 

Ettinger, S. Dress Trimmings, Fringes, Gimps, Cords, Tassels, 
Buttons, Upholstery and Military Trimmings. 105 Post Street, 

San Francisco. 
Fromm k Schaefer. Dress and Upholstery Trimmings. 113 Minna 

Street . San Francisco. 

Higinbotham & Co. San Jose Silk Co. Tram and Fringe Silk. 

San Jose. 
*Nonotuck Silk Co. (See Florence, Mass.) Salesroom, 549 Market 

Street * San Francisco. 

Norcross & Co. Flags, Military Embroidery, Regalia and Dress 

Trimmings. 6 Post Street San Francisco. 

Pacific Fringe Factory. Auerbach & Thompson. Silk Fringes and 
Gimps. 

Factory and Salesroom, 751 Market Street. . San Francisco 
Union Pacific Silk Manufacturing Co. George C. Bode, President. 
Ribbons. (Reported not in operation, October, 1880. ) 

Mills San Francisco. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association cf America. 



9 8 AMERICAN SILK GOODS^ DIRECTORY. 

Viannay, A. Dress Goods. 213 Post Street San Francisco. 



CONNECTICUT. 

Adams, E. & Co. E. Adams, Manufacturer. Woven Goods. Office, 
10 Greene Street, New York. 

Mill at Birmingham- 

^tna Silk Co. F. E. Porter, President; J. B. Eldridge, Treasurer. 
Sewing Silk aud Machine Twist. Agencies in New York and Phil- 
adelphia. 

Mills Norfolk. 

Allen, Dwight. Throwster South Coventiy. 

Atwood, Orlo. Machine Twist. 

Mills and Salesroom New London. 

*Belding Bros. & Co. Sewing Silk, Machine Twist, Floss, Embroid- 
ery and Fringe Silks, Tram and Organzine. Salesrooms, 456 Broad- 
way, New York; 105 Summer Street, Boston; 56 West 4th Street, 
Cincinnati; 147 and 149 Fifth Avenue, Chicago; 603 Washington 
Avenue, St. Louis; 6th, cor. of Arch Street, Philadelphia, L. C. 
Hall, Jr., & Co., Agents for Philadelphia house; 565 Market Street, 
San Francisco, Carlson & Currier, Agents; Belding, Paul & Co., 
28 and 30 St. George Street, Montreal, Canada. 

Mills, Eockville; also at Northampton, Mass, and Montreal, 

Canada Eockville. 

*The Brainerd and Armstrong Co. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. 
Salesrooms, 469 Broadway, New York; 238 Market Street, Phila- 
delphia; 35 Sharpe Street, Baltimore; 4 Fifth Avenue, Pittsburg. 

Mills New London. 

Bridgeport Coach Lace Co. B. K. Mills & Co. Coach Lace, Fringe 
and Tassels. 

Factory and Salesroom, 56 and 58 Cannon Street, Bridgeport. 
*Brown, L. D & Son. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. Sales- 
rooms, 119 Summer Street, Boston, and 439 Broadway, New York. 

Mills Middletown. 

*Chaffee, O. S. & Son. Sewing Silk, Machine Twist, and Embroid- 
ery Silk. Salesroom, Mansfield Centre. 

Mills Willimantic and Mansfield Centre. 

* Cheney Bros. Silks, Satins, Dress Goods, Printed Silks, Handker- 
chiefs, Spun Silk Yarns and Fabrics, Eibbons, Organzine and 
Tram. Salesrooms, 477, 479, 481 Broome Street, New York, and 
Galveston, Texas. Financial Office, South Manchester, Ct. 

Mills Hartford and South Manchester. 

* Denotes connection by membership with, the Silk Association of America. 



CONNECTICUT. 99 

Clark, K. S. Sewing Silk, Machine Twist, Floss Silk, and Tram. 
Agents, Cook, Valentine & Co.. 327 Broadway, New York, and 
Kingman and Freeman, 57 Mercer Street, New York. 

Mill M ount Carmel. 

Hammond & Knowlton. Sewing Silk, Machine and Button-hole 
Twist. Salesroom, 496 Broadway, New York. 

Mills Putnam. 

Hanks, P. G. & J. S. Machine Twist. 

Mill and Salesroom Gurleyvihe. 

*Hayden, J. H. & Son. Tram, Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. 
Kingman & Freeman, Selling Agents, 57 Mercer Street, New York. 

Mills Windsor Locks. 

Heminway, M. & Sods' Silk Co. M. Heminway, Pres.; H. Herain- 
way, Treas. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist, Embroidery, Sad- 
dlers' Knitting and Filling Silks. Salesrooms, 78 Reade and 
99 Church Streets, New York ; 14 North 5th Street, Philadelphia. 

Mills . . . . Watertown. 

^Holland Manufacturing Co. Ira Dimock, Manager ; S. L. Burling- 
ham, Attorney. Sewdng Silk and Machine Twist. Salesrooms, 
H. Eldridge, Agent, 435 Broadway, New York ; 19 High Street, 
Boston ; C33 Market Street, Philadelphia. 

Mills Willimantic. 

^Leonard Silk Co. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. J. H. Simonds, 
President and Treasurer, Warehouse Point, Conn. Salesrooms, 
140 Church street, New York ; 44 Chauncy Street, Boston ; 
235 Arch Street, Philadelphia ; 27 German Street, Baltimore. 

Mills Warehouse Point- 

Macfarlane, James S. Sewing Silk, Machine and Button-hole Twists. 
Salesroom, 43 Walker Street, New York. 

Mills Mansfield Centre. 

Marvin, John M. Organzine, Tram, Machine Twist, and Sewing Silk. 

Factory and Salesroom, cor. State and Wall Streets 

New Haven- 
Merrick & Conant Manufacturing Co. Sewing Silk and Machine 
Twist; also, Silk Throwsters. 

Mill East Hampton. 

Morgan & Bottum Machine Twist. 

Mills South Coventry. 

Pardee, C. H. & Booth, J. H. Coach Laces and Carriage Trim- 
mings, 9 Wooster Street New Haven. 

Smith, E. B. Machine Twist. Belding Bros. & Co., Selling Agents, 
456 Broadway, New York. 

Mill Gurlevville. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



ioo AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

Turner, P. W. & Son. Tram, Organzine, Sewing Silk and Machine 
Twist, Salesroom. 27 Greene Street, New York. 

Mills - Turnervflle. 

"Washburn, A. Fringe Silk. , South Coventry. 

"Williams, W. E. (H. M. Cady.) Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. 

Mill Gurleyville. 

Willi aiantic Silk Co. John M. Hall, President ; W 7 m. H. Osborn, 
Treasurer. Hat Bands and Bindings. 

Mill W 7 illimantic. 

Winsted Silk Co. E. Potter, Manager. Machine and Buttonhole 
Twist, and Sewing, Embroidery and Eloss Silks. Agencies in 
Boston and Chicago. 

Mill W^est Winsted. 



ILLINOIS. 

*Aub, Hackenburg & Co. (See Philadelphia.) Salesroom, 152 Fifth 
Avenue Chicago. 

*Belding Bros. & Co. (Sse Bonkville, Gonn.^ Salesroom, 147 and 
149 Fifth Avenue Chicago. 

*Cutter, John D. & Co (See Newark, N. J. ) Salesroom, 127 Filth 
Avenue « Chicago. 

*Eureka Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Canton, Mass.) Salesroom, 
115 Fifth Avenue . Chicngo. 

Fiedler, A. B. Dress Trimmings, Fringes, Gimps, Ornaments, Cord, 
Tassels and Buttons. Salesroom, 48 East Madisjn Street ; Fac- 
tory, 449 and 451 North W r ells Street Chicago. 

Foster, G. F., Son & Co. Cords, Fringes, Tassels, Society and Mili- 
tary Trimmings. Office, 4 Market Street ; Factory, 205 Kandolph 
Street Chicago. 

Gossage, Charles & Co. Dress Trimmings. (Agency, Cor. Church 
and W 7 orth Streets, New York.) 108 State Street Chicago. 

Heuer & Brockschmidt. Dealers in Upholstery Trimmings. 16 
Fifth Avenue Chicago. 

Jacobs. W\ W. & Co. Fringes, Tassels, Cords, Upholstery and 
Drapery Trimmings. 185 and 187 Wabash Avenue Chicago. 

*Nonotuck Silk Co. (See Florence, Mass.) Salesroom, 159 Fifth 
Avenue Chicago. 

Peters, M. Upholstery Trimmings, Cords, Tassels and Fringes. 
61 Washington Street Chicago. 

*Skitmer, Wm. (See Holyoke, Mass.) Salesroom, 119 Fil'th Avenue, 

Chicago. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



KANSAS, MAINE, MARYLAND, MASS. ioi 

KANSAS. 

* Boissiere, E. V. Ribbons and Dress Trimmings. Also, Silk Cul- 
ture. 

Mills Silkyille, Williamsburgh P. O. 



MAINE. 

Haskell Silk Co. James Haskell, President ; Frank Haskell, Treas. 

Sewing Silk, Machine Twist, Organzine, Tram and Fringe Silk. 

Kingman & Freeman, Selling Agents, 57 Mercer Street, New York. 

Mills Saccarappa- 



MARYLAND. 

* Aub, Hackenburg & Co. (See Philadelphia.) Salesroom, 19 Light 
Street Baltimore- 

*Brainerd & Armstrong Co. (See New London, Conn.) Salesroom' 
35 Sharp Street Baltimore. 

Carpenter, John. Fringes and Undertakers' Trimmings. 88 South 
Eutaw Street Baltimore- 

* Leonard Silk Co. (See Warehouse Point, Conn.) Salesroom, 27 

German Street Baltimore^ 

Muncler, Theophilus. Dress and Upholstery Trimmings. 81 Lex- 
ington Street Baltimore. 

Sixco Bros. 50 North Charles Street Baltimore. 

Stem, S. L. Dress and Upholstery Trimmings, Piece Goods and 
Neckwear. Office, 101 German Street. 

Factory, 43 German Street .Baltimore. 

Tallermau, Gusta. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. 67 North How- 
ard Street Baltimore. 



MASSACHUSETTS. 

BOSTON. 

Abercrombie, Geo. N. Fringes, Cords, Tassels, Buttons, &c. Office, 
12 West Street, Boston. 

Factory, 19 Franklin Street Boston. 

Barr, Eider & Co. Dealers in Sewing Silks. Salesroom, 21 Summer 
Street Boston. 

* Belding Bros. & Co. (See Bocbville, Conn.) Salesroom, 105 Sum- 
mer Street Boston. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Assoc'ati r c : / l . . 



102 AMRICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

Boston Elastic Fabric Co. (See Chelsea, Mass.) Salesroom 
Devonshire Street Boston. 

* Brown, L. D. & Son. (See Middletown, Conn.) Salesroom, 19 
Summer Street Boston. 

Burr, Brown & Co. (See Eingham, Mass.) Salesrooms, 163 Devon- 
shire, and 24 Arch Streets Boston. 

* Cutter, John D. & Co. (See Newark, N. J.) Salesroom, 442 

Washington Street Boston. 

Downs & Adams. (See Boston Highlands.) Salesroom, 5 Chauncy 
Street . . , , Boston. 

* Eureka Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Canton, Mass.) Salesroom, 

Seavey, Foster and Bowman, Agents, 40 Summer Street . . Boston. 
Farwell, Isaac Jr., & Co. (See Watertown, Mass.) Salesroom, 92 

Arch Street , Boston. 

Fiedler, Moeldner & Co. Dress and Cloak Trimmings. Salesroom, 

11 Avon Street, Boston. 

Factory, 473 to 477 Tremont Street Boston. 

French, A. W. Dealer in Gum Silks. Salesroom, 19 Summer Street, 

Boston* 
Glendale Elastic Fabric Co. (See Easthampton, Mass.) Salesroom, 

10 Milk Street Boston. 

* Holland Manufacturing Co. (See Willimantic, Conn.) Salesroom, 
4 19 High Street ,.,..' Boston. 

Hubbard, Dudley. Fringes, Cords, Tassels and Buttons. 22 Win- 
ter Street Boston. 

Kelsea, Joseph N. (See Antrim, N. H.) Salesroom of Selling 
Agents, 105 Summer Street > Boston. 

^Leonard Silk Co. (See Warehouse Point, Conn.) Salesroom, 44 
Chauncy Street. Boston. 

Linneman, C- A. Silks, Fringes and Trimmings. 28 Chauncy 
Street « Boston. 

Lipper, M. W. & Co. (See Philadelphia.) Salesroom, 49 Summer 
Street Boston. 

Messinger, Y. J. & Co. Dealers in Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. 
23 Dock Square , . Boston. 

Newey, Joshua E. Skein Silk Dyer. 812 Albany Street . . Koxbury, 

Boston. 

*Nonotuck Silk Co. (See Florence, Mass.) Salesroom, 18 Summer 
Street t Boston. 

Polhaus, E. Silk Dyer Jamaica Plain, Boston. 

Schoenfuss, F. & Co. Fringes, Buttons and Cords. 383 Washington 
Street Boston. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk' Association of America. 



MASSACHUSETTS. 105 

Seavey, Foster & Bowman. See (Eureka M'f'g Co. Canton, Mass.) 
40 Summer Street Boston. 

*Springneld Silk Co. (See Springfield, Mass.) Salesroom, 93 High 
Street Boston. 

Thairlwall, Wm. C. Spun Silk, Cotton and Linen Yarns. 38 Lin- 
coln Street. Boston. 

Titer, William. (See New Brunswick, N. J.) Salesroom of Selling 
Agent, 18 Summer Street . . Boston. 

Whitney, H. L. Dealer in Sewing Silk. Salesroom Boston. 

Wilkins, Thomas & Co. Dealers in Sewing Silks. Salesroom, 
Greene Street, near Bowdoin . , Boston. 

Ziegler, Alfred. Suspender Web, Upholstery Trimmings, Fringes, 
Gimps and Silk Ties. Salesroom, 5 Chauncy Street, Boston. 

Factory, Decatur Avenue, cor. of Pynchon Street. . . Boston. 

MASSACHUSETTS, Continued. 

*Belding Bros. & Co. (See Bockville, Conn.) 

Mill at. Northampton. 

Boston Elastic Fabric Co. Suspender Webs, Garter Yv^ebs, Frills, 
Cords and Braids. Salesrooms, 175 Devonshire Street, Boston, 
and 102 Chambers Street, New York. 

Mills Chelsea. 

*Bottuni, C. L. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist, also Silk Dyeing. 

Conantv.lle Silk Mill Northampton. 

Burr, Brown & Co. Fringes, Gimps, Cords, Tassels, and Carriage, 
Military and Upholstery Trimmings. Salesrooms, 168 Devonshire 
and 24- Arch Street, Boston. 

Factory Hingham. 

Downs & Adams. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. Office, 5 Chauncy 
Street, Boston. 

Factory. . . Boston Highlands. 

*Eureka Silk Manufacturing Co. J. W. Seavey, President; F. A. 
Foster. Secretary; John A. Bowman, Treasurer. Sewing Silk, 
Machine Twist and Embroidery Silks. Salesrooms, 7 Mercer Street, 
New York; 40 Summer Street, Boston; 115 Fifth Avenue, Chicago; 
707 Washington Avenue, St. Louis. 

Mills Canton. 

Farwell, Isaac, Jr., & Co. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. Sales- 
room, 92 Arch Street, Boston. 

Mills Watertown. 

Glendale Elastic Fabric Co. Joseph W. Green, Jr., Treasurer. 
Elastic Gorings, Cords, Braids and Garter WVbs. Agents, Stod- 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



ao 4 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

dard, Lovering & Co., 10 Milk Street, Boston, and 8 Thomas 
Street, New Ycfrk. 

Factory , Easthampton. 

Glenwood Mills. O. G. Webster and A. S. King. Sewing Silk and 
Machine Twist. Salesroom, 57 Mercer Street, New York. 

Mills Easthampton. 

Gold Medal Braid Co. H. A. Daggett, President. Silk Fishing 
Lines. 

Factory Attleborough Falls. 

*Lathrop Bros. Sewing Silk, Machine Twist and Fringe Silk. 

Mills and Salesroom Northampton. 

Mansfield, G. H. & Co. Braided Fishing Lines. 

Factory and Salesroom Canton. 

^Nonotuck Silk Co. Ira Dimock, President; A. T. Lilly, Treasurer. 
Sewing Silk and Machine Twist- Mills, at Florence and Leeds, 
Mass. Salesrooms, 19 Mercer Street, New York; 18 Summer 
Street, Boston; 159 Fifth Avenue, Chicago; 417 and 419 North 
Fourth Street, St. Louis; 88 West Third Street, Cincinnati; and 
at Gloversyille, N. Y. 

Mils Florence. 

*Skinner, William. Unquompnk Silk Mills. Organzine, Sewing 
Silk, Machine Twist, Dress Goods, Satins de Chine, Grosgrain, 
Braids and Bindings. Salesrooms, 43 Mercer Street, New Y r ork; 
and 119 Fifth Avenue, Chicago, 111. 

Mills Holyoke. 

^Smith & Bice. Sewings and Machine Twist. Agencies in Boston, 
New York, Philadelphia and Chicago. 

Mill and Salesroom Pittsfield. 

^Springfield Silk Co. O. H. Smith, President; H. W. Hallett, Treas- 
urer. Sewing Silk, Machine Twist, Organzine and Tram. Sales- 
rooms, C. F. Lockhardt, Agent, 73 Leonard Street, New York; 
George W. Knight & Co., Agents, 93 High Street, Boston; George 
W. Sparks, Agent, 17 South 4th Street, Philadelphia. 

Mills Springfield. 

Streeter & Mayhew. Machine Twist, Sewings, Fringe and Floss 
Silks, Tram and Organzine. 

Mills Shelburne Falls. 

*Warner, Luther J. Sewing Silk, Machine Twist and Embroidery 
Silk. 

Mills and Salesroom Northampton. 

"Worcester. Silk Co. E. M. Kennedy, Proprietor. Plain and Fancy 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



MASS., MO., N. H , N. J. 105 

Schappe Gros-grain Ribbons. Geo. R. Kennedy, Agent, Worces- 
ter, Mass. 

Mills Worcester. 

Ziegler, Conrad. Silk Dyer. 54 George Street Roxbury. 



MISSOURI. 

*Belding Bros. & Co. (See Rockville, Conn.) Salesroom, 603 Wash- 
ington Avenue , St. Louis. 

*Eureka Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Canton Mass.) Salesroom, 
707 Washington Avenue St. Louis. 

*Nonotuck Silk Co. (See Florence, Mass.) Salesrooms, 417 and 419 
North 4th Street St. Louis. 

Schacht & Bro. Dress Trimmings. 326 Market Street, St. Louis. 



NEW HAMPSHIRE. 

Childs, Ruthan. Organzine and Tram. Selling Agents, Kingman 
& Freeman, 57 Mercer Street, New York. 

Factory. , Hillsborough Bridge. 

Kelsea, Joseph N. Sewing Silk, Machine Twist and Tram. Agents, 
W. J. Baker, 105 Summer Street, Boston; Kingman & Freeman, 
57 Mercer Street, New York. 

Mills and Salesroom Antrim. 



NEW JERSEY. 

PATERSON. 

Adams, R. & H. Ribbons, Fancy Silks, Handkerchiefs, Mosquito 
Nets, Crinolines and Wiggins. Salesrooms, 16 and 83 and 85 
Greene Street, New York. 

Harmony Mills, Van Houten Street Paterson. 

American Braid Co. Benj. Curley & Co. Silk Watch Chains, &c. . . 

Paterson. 
Anderson, John & Sons. Handkerchiefs, Figured Dress Goods, Ties 
and Scarfs. Whitney & Mathews, Agents, 85 Leonard Street, 
New York. 

Totowa Mills, 48 Redwood Street Paterson. 

Ashley & Bailey. Tie Silks, Dress Goods and Handkerchiefs. 
Agents, Stanton Bros., 466 Broome Street, and Whitney & Mathews, 
85 Leonard Street, New York. 

Mills, River Street Paterson. 

Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



106 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

Ashley, William. Handkerchiefs, Dress Goods, Tie Silks and Scarfs. 
Agents, Whitney & Mathews, 85 Leonard Street, New York. 

Mills at Fort Plain, New York, and the Franklin Mill, Mill 

Street Paterson. 

Auer, C. B. Satins and Brocades. Murray Mill, Mill Street 

Paterson. 
Auerbach & Co. Sewing Silk and Twist. Salesroom, 481 Broadway, 
New York. 

Mill Paterson. 

Baare, Frederick. Soft Silk Winding. Van Houten Street, Paterson. 

Ball, William. Handkerchiefs. 93 Biver Street , . Paterson.. 

Barnes & Peel. Silk and Mohair Braids, Organzine and Tram. 

Beaver Mill, 1 to 9 Broadway Paterson. 

*Booth, J. H. & Co. Tram, Organzine, Floss and Sewings. Agent, 
Wm. Kyle, 54 Howard Street, New York. 

Mills, Cor. Market and Spruce Streets. Paterson. 

Broomhall, George L. Dress Goods, Handkerchiefs and Millinery 
Silks. Agents, Whitney & Mathews, 85 Leonard Street, New York. 

Ashley & Bailey Mill, Warren Street Paterson. 

Bruchet, Louis. Handkerchiefs. 93 Biver Street Paterson. 

Chapin, J. L. Dress Goods and Handkerchiefs. Selling Agents, 
96 Beade Street and 56 Worth Street, New York. 

Arkwright Mill, Beach and Morton Streets Paterson. 

Colle, J. Chenille. 360 Main Street Paterson. 

Crawford, Paul. Handkerchiefs, Scarfs, and Dress Goods. Agent, 
William Whiteside, 107 and 109 Franklin Street New York. 

Dale Mill, Railroad Avenue ... Paterson, 

Crew, Sons & Co. Silk Finishers. Watson Mill, Bailroad Avenue, 

Paterson. 

Day, John. Handkerchiefs. 93 River Street Paterson. 

Dale, Frederick S. Silk and Mohair Braids and Bindings, and Com- 
mission Throwster. Agents, Dale & Kimball, 419 and 421 Broad- 
way, New York. 

Dale Mill, Railroad Avenue Paterson. 

*Dexter, Lambert & Co. Twill Silks, Tie Silks, Ribbons and Dress 
Silks. Salesrooms, 33 and 35 Greene Street, New York. 

Mills, Straight Street Paterson. 

Doherty & Wads worth Dress Goods, Handkerchiefs, Tie Silks and 
Grenadines. Selling Agents, Field, Morris, Fenner & Co., 55 
White Street, and Albert Haager & Waldburger, 60 Worth Street, 
New York. 

Arkwright Mill, Beach and Morton Streets Paterson. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



PATERSON, N. J. 107 

Dorgeval, P. Silt Looms. Dale Mill, Railroad Avenue . . . Paterson 

Dumas & Taber. Dress Goods, Bolting Cloth and Loom Crepe. 

Selling Agents, Lewis Bros. & Co., 88 Worth Street, New York. 

Mills at Paterson and at Boslyn, L. I Paterson. 

*Dunlop, John. Union Silk Works. Organzine, Sewing Silk, Ma- 
chine Twist, Saddlers' and Embroidery Silks. Salesroom, 25 Mer- 
cer Street, New York. 

Mills, Morton Street Paterson. 

Fletcher, John & Son. Handkerchiefs. Factory, 106 Straight Street, 

Paterson. 
Fletcher, Joseph Commission Throwster. Factory, 119 Tyler Street, 

Paterson. 
*Franke, Louis. Tram and Organzine, Fringe Silk, Machine Twist 
and Silk Braids, especially prepared for Trimming Manufacturers. 
Salesroom, 110 Grand Street, New York. 

Factory, cor. Jay and Clinton Streets Paterson. 

Freeman, H. H. & Co. Broad Silks, Handkerchiefs and Grenadines. 
Dunlop Mill, cor. of Morton and Straight Streets . . . Pa'terson. 
Frost, George. Throwster and Soft Silk Winder. (New mill build- 
ing), Madison Street Paterson 

Grant, E. (Eeported out of business, Oct., 1880.) 116 Slater Street, 

Paterson. 
Greenwood Bros. Commission Throwsters. 51 Mechanic Street, 

Paterson. 
Greenwood & Jackson. Commission Throwsters. Dale Mill, Bail- 
road Avenue Paterson. 

Gregson, McCulloch & Co. Spun Silk. 42 Van Houten Street, 

Paterson. 
Greppo, Claude. Silk Dyer. Office, 27 Mercer Street, New York. 

Works, Dale Avenue and Slater Street . . Paterson. 

*Grimshaw Bros. Grimshaw Mill. Handkerchiefs, Scarfs, Dress 
Goods and Millinery Silks. Salesroom, 71 Franklin Street, New 
York. 

Mills, Dale Avenue and Slater Street Paterson. 

Grish, John. Satins, Dress Goods, Handkerchiefs and Chenille. 
Salesroom, 31 Walker Street, New York. 

Benson Mills, 57 and 59 Bridge Street Paterson. 

*Hamil & Booth. Passaic Silk Works and Hamil Mill. Tram and 
Organzine, Fringe Silks, Millinery and Fancy Silks and "Ribbons. 
Salesroom, 96 and 98 Grand Street, New York. 

Office of Mills, Ward Street Paterson. 

Handy, Robert. Dress Goods on Commission. 104 Straight Street, 

Paterson. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



108 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

Hawks, M. J. & Co. Prussian Bindings, Galloons, &c. M. EL 
Chapin, Agent, 68 Greene Street, New York. 

Hamilton Mill, Mill Street Paterson. 

Holmes, W. D. Dress Goods, Handkerchiefs, &c. 11 \ Fair Street, 

Paterson. 
Hopper & Scott. Organzine and Tram. Hope Mill, Mill Street, 

Paterson. 
Jones & Hopper. Dress Goods and Handkerchiefs. Watson Ma- 
chine Co. Railroad Avenue Paterson. 

Little, W. & Co. Totowa Mill. Kearney Street Paterson. 

Lockett, John. Handkerchiefs, Dress Goods. Scarfs and Millinery 
Silks. Agents, Whitney & Mathews, 85 Leonard Street, New 
York. 

Dale Mills, Railroad Avenue Paterson. 

Lucas, Samuel. Dress, Millinery and Tie Goods and Handkerchiefs. 

Fair Street Paterson. 

Lyons Silk Works. Jerome Yacher, Supt. Handkerchiefs and 
Dress Goods. Selling Agents, Schoals & Howell, 34 Walker 
Street, New York. 

Mills Paterson. 

*Mackay, J. P. Dress and Millinery Goods, Handkerchiefs and 
Veilings. Salesroom, 89 Leonard Street, New York. 

MH1, 60 to 66 Water Street Paterson. 

Martin, Adam & Co. Handkerchiefs, Millinery Silks and Dress 

Goods. 55 and 57 Van Houten Street Paterson. 

Marland, J. Handkerchiefs. 93 River Street Paterson. 

McAllister, James. Throwster. 32d Street and 10th Avenue 

Paterson. 
*Meyenberg, S. M. Millinery Silks, Scarfs, Veils and Ties. Sales- 
room, 40 Lispenard Street, New York. 

Factories, Hoboken, N. J., and Ward Street Paterson. 

Miller & Brown. Dress Goods and Handkerchiefs. 93 River 

Street " Paterson. 

Morlot, George. Silk Dyer. Office, 454 Broome Street, New York. 

Works, 32d Street and Tenth Avenue Paterson. 

Neuburger Braid Co. L. & H. Neuburger. Silk Braids, Fancy 
Goods, Bindings, and Raw Silk Throwing on commission. Sales- 
rooms, 39 and 41 Walker Street, New York. 

Mills ■ « Paterson. 

Nightingale Bros. Plain and Figured Dress Goods, Satins, Tie 
Silks, Brocades, Tissues and Gauze. Agents, Wm. Whiteside, 
107 and 109 Franklin Street, and Field, Morris, Fenner & Co., 55 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



PATERSON, N. J. 109. 

and 57 White Street, New York. Office, 299 Broadway, New 
York. 

Boudinot Mill, Straight Street Paterson. 

Nightingale, James, Jr. Dale Mill, Railroad Avenue, Paterson. 

Nightingale, James, Sr. Dress Goods, Handkerchiefs and Scarfs. 
Agents, Whitney & Mathews, 85 Leonard Street, New York. 

Totowa Silk Mill, 14 Kearney Street Paterson. 

Paterson Dyeing Association. Silk Dyers. Black, Colored, Shaded 
and Printed Dyeing. 

Franklin Mill, Mill Street, opposite Ellison Paterson. 

Paterson Dyeing and Finishing Co. C. Greppo, President. Dyeing 
and Finishing Piece Goods. Office, 27 Mercer Street, New York. 

Works opp. Van Houten and Mill Streets Paterson. 

*Pelgram & Meyer. Ribbons and Dress Goods. Salesrooms, 57 
and 59 Greene Street, New York. 

Mills, Van Houten Street Paterson. 

Penrose & Co. Handkerchiefs and Dress Goods. Selling Agents, 
Ammidown, Lane & Co., 87 and 89 Leonard Street, New York. 

Mills, cor. Fair and Washington Sts., and Dale Mills 

Paterson. 

* Phoenix Manufacturing Co. Albert Tilt, President and Treasurer. 

Handkerchiefs, Brocade, Dress Goods, Fancy Ribbons and Ties. 
Agents, Greeff & Co., 90 to 94 Grand Street, New York. 

Phoenix Mill, Van Houten Street Paterson. 

* Pioneer Silk Co. John Ryle, President. Tram, Organzine and 

Ribbons. 

Murray Mills, Mill Street Paterson. 

Pocachard, A. Dress Silks and Novelties. 

Factory, 173 to 177 Market Street .Paterson 

Rousset, J. Silk Dress Goods and Millinery Silks. 

Hope Mill, Mill Street Paterson. 

* Ryle, John C. & Co. Commission Silk Throwsters. 

Central Silk Mill, Ellison Street . . . « Paterson. 

Schmidt, F. C. & Co. Soft Silk Winders. 

Dale Mill, Dale Avenue Paterson. 

* Scott, John Jackson. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist, Fishing 

Lines, and Silk Dyeing. 

Factory, Grant Locomotive Works Paterson. 

See & Sheehan. Silk Dyers. Office, 96 Grand Street, New York. 

Dye Works, Ellison Street Paterson. 

Sherratt, Thomas. Dress Goods and Handkerchiefs. 60 Railroad 
Avenue Paterson. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



no AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY, 

-Singleton, George. Tram, Organzine, Sewing and Machine Twist. 

Watson Mill, Railroad Avenue Paterson. 

.Southworth Bros. Dress Goods and Handkerchiefs, Agents, Am- 
midown, Lane & Co., 87 and 89 Leonard Street, New York. 

Mills, Morton Street Paterson. 

^Strange, William & Co. Silk Goods, Ribbons, Millinery and Dress 
Silks, Tram and Organzine. Salesrooms, Strange & Bro., 42 and 44 
Greene Street, New York. 

Mills, Essex and Paterson Streets Paterson. 

TJrbahn, A. 93 River Street Paterson. 

Walthall, James & Son. Floss and Embroidery Silks, Tram, Sewing 
Silk, Machine Twist and Saddlers' Heavy Canton Twist. 

Mill, 93 River Street. ... Paterson. 

^Weidmann, J. Silk Dyer. Black Dyeing a specialty. New York 
Office, 46 Howard Street. 

Dye Works, Cor. Paterson and Ellison Streets Paterson. 

Winfield, A. D. & Co. Silk and Mohair Braids, Prussian Bindings, 
Galloons, and Coat Hangers. Agent, John Stuart, 71 Franklin 
Street, New York. 

Union Works, cor. Market and Spruce Streets, Paterson. 

NEW JERSEY, Continued. 

J3annigan, P. & I. Tram, Organzine, Fringe Silks, Ribbons and 
Satin Dress Goods. New York Office, 68 Greene Street. 

Mills and Salesroom Lake View. 

^Chaffanjon C. "Favorite" Silk Manufactory. Black Gros Grain, 
Faille, Serges and Satin de Chine. Agents, Wilmerding, Hoguet 
& Co., 64 and 66 White Street, New York. 

Mills, 177 to 189 South Street Jersey City Heights. 

^Columbia Silk Manufacturing Co. John Dunlop, Pres. and Treas. ; 
L. Chapperon, Sec'y. Gros Grains and Figured Dress Goods. 
Selling Agents, Fred'k Yietor & Achelis, 66 Leonard Street, New 
York. 

Factory, Grand and 3d Streets. Hoboken. 

*Comby, John. Black and Colored Gros Grains. Salesroom, C. 
Passavant & Co., Agents, 222 Church Street, New York. 

Mills West Hoboken. 

*Cutter, John D. & Co. Inslee A. Hopper, late President of the 
Singer Manufacturing Co., Special Partner. Sewing Silks, Ma- 
chine Twist, Tram, Organzine, Gros Grain, Dress Goods, Serges, 
Satin de Chine and Sewing Silk Braids. Salesrooms, 329 and 331 
Broadway, New York; 442 Washington Street, Boston; 735 Mar- 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



NEW JERSEY. ni 

ket Street, Philadelphia; 127 Fifth Avenue, Chicago, and Palace 
Hotel, San Francisco. 

Newark City Silk Mills Newark. 

Edson, T. Handkerchiefs. 90 Springfield Avenue Newark. 

Ehler, A. & B. Progress Mills. Dress Goods, Serges, Satin de Chine. 

Mill, 564 and 566 Palisade Avenue Jersey City Heights. 

Field, Morris, Fenner & Co. Plain, Black and Colored Silks. Sales- 
rooms, 55 and 57 White Street, New York. 

Factoiy, corner of Columbia and Lincoln Streets 

Jersey City Heights. 
Gazzera. A. Throwster. Factory and Salesroom. (P. 0. Address, 

Paterson, N. J.) Haledon. 

*Givernaud Bros. Black and Colored Dress Silks, Serges, Satin de 
Lyon, Damasses, Satins and Armures. Office, 46 Howard Street, 
New York. 

Mills West Hoboken, Homestead and Hackensack. 

Jackson George. Braids. Selling Agent, 104 Duane Street, New 
York. 

Factory Little Falls. 

*Jourdeuil & Pinkney, Dress Silks, Serges and Satin de Chine. 
Salesroom, 123 Mercer Street, New York. 

Mills West Hoboken. 

Kamp, M. & C. Dress Goods. Concordia Mill, 19 to 24 Bloom 

Street, Town of Union Weehawken. 

Laubsch & Gelan. Brocades, Plain Dress Goods and Neck-wear 
Silks. Factory, corner of Palisade Avenue and Columbia Street, 

Weehawken. 
Lovatt, Charles. Sewings and Machine Twist. 36 Crawford Street, 

Newark. 

*Meyenberg, S. M. (See Paterson, K J.) Mill at Hoboken. 

*New York Silk Manufacturing Co. Gros Grain "Ribbons, Beltings, 
Hat Bindings, Elastic Goods. Office and Salesroom, 70 Greene 
Street, New York. 

Factory Marion, N. J. 

Pages, J. B. Silk Dyeing Works. 97 and 101 Adams Street, 

Hoboken. 
Perks, George A. & Co. Upholstery Trimmings. Salesroom, 34 
South Second Street, Philadelphia. 

Mill Camden. 

Schneely & Grossenbacher. Broad Goods and Jacquard Silks. 
Office and Factory Clifton. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



H2 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

*Simon, Herman. Dress Goods and Fancy Silks. Agents, E. Oel- 
berman & Co., 57-63 Greene Street, New York 

Mill, Garden and Morgan Streets, Town of Union, Weehawken. 

Sonntag IJ. Dress Trimmings. 219 Congress Street 

Jersey City Heights. 
Spangenberg, C, Jr. Upholstery Trimmings. Factory and Sales- 
room, 221 Park Avenue Hoboken. 

Teste, Molinero & Co. Dress Goods, Satins, Serges and Tie Silks. 
Agents, A. Person, Harriman & Co., 457 Broome Street, New 
York. 

Mills, Paterson Avenue West Hoboken. 

Ther, William. Laces, Hair Nets and Mitts. Office, 383 Broadway, 
New York. Agent, M. Drost, 18 Summer Street, Boston. 

Factory and Salesroom New Brunswick. 

Wortendyke Manufacturing Co. C. A. Wortendyke, President and 
Treasurer. Tram, Organzine, Fringe Silks, Dress Goods and 
Handkerchiefs. Selling Agents, Ammidown, Lane & Co., 87 and 
89 Leonard Street, New York. 

Brick Mill .Wortendyke^ 



NEW YORK. 

KEW YORK CITY. 

Ackermann, W. C. Upholstery Trimmings 233 Sixth Avenue. 

Adams, B, & Co. (See Birmingham, Conn.) Bibbons, Handker- 
chiefs and Mosquito Nets 10 Greene Street. 

Adams, B. & H. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesrooms, 16 Greene 
Street, and 83 and 85 Greene Street- 
Anderson, John & Son. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom of Selling 

Agents 85 Leonard Street. 

Ashley, William. (See Paterson, JV. J.) Salesroom of Selling Agents, 

85 Leonard Street. 

Ashley & Bailey. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesrooms 

85 Leonard and 466 Broome Streets. 
American Silk Label Manufacturing Co. George Hey, Manager. 
Silk Labels -and Coat Hangers. Agencies at Boston, Chicago, 
Cincinnati, Philadelphia, and St. Louis. 

Salesroom and Factory 389 Broome Street. 

* Aub, Hackenburg & Co. (See Philadelphia.) Salesroom 

15 Mercer Street. 
Auerbach & Co. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom, 481 Broadway. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



NEW YORK CITY. 



i3 



Bannigan, P. & I. (See Lakeview, N. J.) Salesroom 

68 Greene; Street. 

Barnard, O. H. Undertakers' Trimmings 

511 to 513 West 30th Street. 

Basch k Hirsch. Dress Trimmings and Silk Fringes 

55 Mercer Street. 
Beierstedt, Carl. Upholstery Trimmings , . . 138 Canal Street. 

* Belding Bros. & Co. (See Bockville, Conn.) Salesroom 

456 Broadway. 

Benz, Oscar. Dress Trimmings 354 East 10th Street. 

Bernstein, A. Millinery Trimmings 1680 Lexington Avenue. 

Bernstein & Co. Cords, Tassels and Specialties. 133 Mercer Street. 
Bernstein, Samuel. Fringes, Dress Trimmings and Ribbcns. 

Factory and Salesroom 91 Bleecker Street. 

Bertschy, Bertha Viola. Ribbons, Fringes, Trimmings and Novel- 
ties Corner 57th Street and 10th Avenue. 

Betts, J. Silk Braids 519 West 45th Street. 

Blau & Hoffman. Fringes, Chenille and Dress Trimmings 

51 Greene Street. 

Bodmer, Edward. Silk Dyer 423 West 53d Street. 

Bodmer, Emil & Co. Silk Dyers. 404 West 50th Street. 

Boesen, Pauline. Fringes and Passementerie. ... 45 Mercer Street. 

* Booth, J. H. & Co. (See Paterson N. J.) Salesroom 

54 Howard Street. 

Boston Elastic Fabric Co. (See Chelsea, Mass.) Salesroom 

102 Chambers Street. 
*Bottum, C. L. (See Northampton, Mass.) Salesroom of Selling 

Agents 329 and 331 Broadway. 

Braillard, L. J. Silk Dyer 418 and 420 West 27th Street. 

*Brainerd & Armstrong Co. (See Neiv London, Conn.) Salesroom,, 

469 Broadway.. 
Broomhall, George L. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom of Selling 

Agents 85 Leonard Street.. 

Brown, Edward G. Uphol itcry Trimmings. 

Factory and Salesroom 787 and 789 Broadway. 

*Brown, L. D. & Son. (See Middletoxm, Conn.) Salesroom 

439 Broadway. 

Brown, Wm. P. Ribbons 457 to 463 West 45th Street. 

Buschamnn, C. H. & Co. Fringes, Dress Trimmings, Cords and 

Tassels 36 East 14th Street. 

Butler, H. V. , Jr. 4 & Co. Wholesale Paper Dealers ; Silk Ribbon 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



ii4 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

Paper a Specialty. General Agents for the Iyanhoe Manufacturing 

Co 32 Eeade Street. 

Gamp, McKeans & Co. Trimmings, Fringes, Cords and Tassels. 

Factory and Salesroom . 19 Mercer Street. 

*Oha£fanjon, C. (See Jersey City Heights, N. J.) Salesroom of Selling 

Agents 64 White Street. 

Chapin, J. L. (See Paterson, N. J. ) Salesrooms of Selling Agents . . . 

96 Reade Street and QG Worth Street. 

*Cheney Bros. (See South Manchester, Conn. ) Salesrooms 

477, 479 and 481 Broome Street. 
Childs, Ruthan (See Hillsborough Bridge, N.H) Salesroom of Selling 

Agents . . 57 Mercer Street. 

City Button "Works. ^Erlanger & Liebman, Proprietors.) Silk and 

Crochet Buttons. Factory, 116 "Walker Street; Office 

154 Centre Street. 
Clark, R. S. (See Mount Carmel, Conn.) Salesrooms of Selling Agents, 

227 Broadway and 57 Mercer Street. 

Cohen, B. L. Embossing Velvet and Watering Silk 

178 Centre Street. 

Collet, A. Upholstery Trimmings. Factory and Salesroom 

900 Broadway. 

* Columbia Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Hoboken, N, J.) Salesroom 

of Selling Agents, 66 Leonard Street 

"■Comby, John. (See West Hoboken, N. J.) Salesroom of Selling 

Agents * 222 Clmrch Street. 

"Oopcutt, William H. & Co. (See Yonkers, N. Y.) Salesroom... 

31 Greene Street. 
Crawford, Paul. (See Pater son, N. J.) Salesroom of Selling Agents, 

107 and 109 Franklin Street. 

* Cutter, John D. & Co. (See Newark, N. J.) Salesrooms 

329 and 331 Broadway. 
Dale, Frederick S. (See' Paterson, N. J.) Salesrooms of Selling 

Agents 419 and 421 Broadway. 

Dalton, Joseph. Hair Nets, Laces and Canvas. Factor} 7 , 108 and 
110 Worcester Street. Selling Agents, Cook, Valentine & Co., 

327 Broadway. 

Dean & Matthews. Fringes and Dress Trimmings 

19 East 14th Street. 
Deppeler & Kam merer. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. 

Factory and Salesroom, 108 Grand Street. 

*Dexter, Lambert & Co. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesrooms 

33 and 35 Greene Street. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



NEW YORK CITY. 115 

Dietzel & Green. Fancy Trimmings. Factory, 398 Broome Streei 
New York. Agency, 33 Roedingsmarkt, Hamburg, Germany . 

Office 601 Broadway. 

Doherty & Wadsworth. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesrooms of Selling; 

Agents 55 White and 60 Worth Street*. 

Dreyfus Bros. Fringes, Upholstery Trimmings and Passementerie. 

88 Prince Streei. 

Dreyfus & Hecht. Dress Trimmings 107 Greene Streei. 

Dumas & Taber. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom of Selling Agents 

88 Worth Streei. 
*Dunlop John. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom. ..25 Mercer Streei. 

Eicke, Edward. Military and Schutzen Trimmings : 

157 Canal Streei. 
Ellison, Adolph S. Fringes, Passementerie, Cords, Tassels, Chenille, 

Buttons and Novelties 103 and 105 Greene Streei. 

Erskine, John & Co. Ribbons. Factory, 517 to 525 West 45tL 

Street. Salesroom 52 Greene Streei. 

Eschbach, S. & Son. Silk Dyers 341 West 41th Streei. 

Estberg, E. (See Brooklyn, E. D.) Office 460 Pearl Streei. 

*Eureka Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Canton, Mass.) Salesroom,, 

7 Mercer Streei. 

Fessler, H. Cigar Ribbons, Galloons and Prussian Binelings 

503 to 507 Fhvt Avenue. 
Field, Morris, Fenner & Co. (See Jersey City Heights, N. J.) Sales- 
room . . 55 White Streei. 

Fisher, M. Dress Trimmings 471 Broadwav. 

Fisher & TofT. Dress Trimmings. Factory and Salesroom 

8 Howard Street. 

*Franke, Louis. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom 

110 Grand Street. 
Friend, Hermann. Trimmings and Passementerie. 604 Broadway. 

*Funke, Hugo. (See College Point, L. I., N. Y.) Salesrooms 

23 and 25 Greene Street. 

Gartner & Friedenheit. Handkerchiefs 89 Grand Street. 

Gehlert, Edward. Fringes, Dress Trimmings and Passementerie. 

2327 Fourth avenue. 
Gimpel, Henry. Dress Trimmings. Factory and Salesroom .... 

403 Broadway. 

*Givernaud Bros. (See Hoboken, N. J.) Salesroom 

46 Howard Streei . 
Glendale Elastic Fabric Co. (See Eadhampton, Mass.) Salesroom, 

8 Thomas Street. 



* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



n6 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

Glenwood Mills. (See Easthampton, Mass. ) Salesroom 

57 Mercer Street. 

Glockmann & Lingg. Fringes and Dress Trimmings 

810 Broadway. 
Gminder, Frederick & Co. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. Agencies 
in Philadelphia and Chicago. Salesroom, 66 Greene Street. 

Factory 10 th Avenue and 45th Street. 

Godshalk, E. H. (See Philadelphia, Pa.) Salesroom 

71 Franklin Street. 

Goodman, B. Silk Webbing 7 White Street. 

Gossage, Charles & Co. (See Chicago, III.) Salesroom of Selling 

. Agents Cor. Church and Worth Streets, 

Graf, Jacob. Embroidery by Hand and Machine 

215 Church Street. 
Graham, John & Son. Upholstery and Undertakers' Trimmings. 

Factory and Salesroom 516 to 521 West 35th Street. 

Greenbaunj, Louis & Son. New York Cord and Tassel Mill. Pic- 
ture and Curtain Cords and Tassels. Factory and Salesrooms. . . 

65 and 67 Duane Street. 

Greppo, Claude. (See Paterson, N. J.) New York Office 

27 Mercer Street. 

*Grimshaw Bros. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom 

71 Franklin Street. 
Grish, John. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom of Selling Agents, 

31 Walker Street. 

Grollimund, J. Cigar Bibbons 461 West 40th Street. 

Hafelfinger Jacob. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. Factory and 

Salesroom 444 West 38th Street. 

Hafelfinger, Fritz. Fringes and Dress Trimmings 

461 West 40th Street. 

Hafelfinger, John. Dress Trimmings 462 10th Avenue. 

*Haniil & Booth. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom 

96 and 98 Grand Street. 

Hammond & Knowlton. (See Putnam, Conn.) Salesroom 

496 Broadway. 
Harris & Klein. Dress, Cloak and Millinery Trimmings and Hat 

Cords 7 Washington Place. 

Haskell Silk Co. (See Saccarappa, Me.) Salesroom of Selling Agents, 

57 Mercer Street 
Haubner, L. D. Upholstery Trimmings. Factory and Salesroom. 

606 Eighth Avenue. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silt Association of America. 



NEW YORK CITY. 



'7 



Hawks, M. J. & Co. (See Paterson, K J. ) Salesroom of Selling 

Agents 68 Greene Street. 

*Hayden, J. H. & Son. (See Windsor Locks, Conn.) Salesroom of 

Selliug Agents 57 Mercer Street. 

*Hayes, Thomas F. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. Factory and 

Salesroom 5 to 9 Union Square. 

Heidenreich, John. New York Silk Dyeing Works. Silk Dyer. 

543 and 545 Tenth Avenue. 

Heinemnn, Jacob. Dress Trimmings C50 Broadway. 

Heminway, M. & Sons. Silk Co. (See Watertown, Conn.) Sales- 
rooms 78 Reade Street and 99 Church Street. 

Henze, Marcus. Upholstery Trimmings and Fringes. Factory and 

Salesroom '. 7*29 Broadway. 

Hertlein & Schlatter. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. Factories, 

29 Mercer and 210 Canal Streets; Office, 29 Mercer Street. 

Hess, Isaac. Dress and Cloak Trimmings, Fringes, Cords and 

Tassels. Agency, 1 N. 5th Street, Philadelphia. Salesroom and 

Factory 5 Howard Street. 

^Hinze & Co. Silk Refinishing Works 47 Mercer Street. 

Hirsh, M. & Son. Dress Trimmings and Passementerie 

420 Broome Street. 
Hobley Bros. (See Brooklyn, E. D.) Salesroom, 107 Grand Street. 

Hofmann, F. Braids, Cords and Tassels 91 Mercer Street. 

^Holland Manufacturing Co. (See Willimantic, Conn.) Salesrooms, 

435 Broadway. 

Horn, Henriette. Ribbons 231 West 29th Street. 

*Horstmann, Wm. H. & Sons. (See Philadelphi" .) Salesroom. . . . 

410 Broadway. 

Howard, George. Millinery Silks. Factory and Salesroom 

404 West 33d Street. 

*Itschncr (Werner) & Co. (See Philadelphia.) Salesroom 

70 Mercer Street. 

Jackson, George. (See Little Falls, N. J.) Selling Agent 

104 Duane Street. 
Jackson & Co. Upholstery Trimmings. 115 to 121 East 13th Street. 

* Jennings, A. G. (See Brooklyn, N. Y.) Salesrooms 

473 and 475 Broome Street. 
*Jourdeuil & Pinkney. (See West Hobjken, N. J.) Salesroom 

123 Mercer street. 

Judson, Charles. Webs and Suspenders 73 Leonard Street. 

Kammerer & Bockstoever. Fringes, Dress Trimmings, Cords and 
Tassels Ill Greene Street. 

* Denotes connection by membership with, the Silk Association of America. 



n8 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

Kelty, G. L. & Co. (See Brooklyn, E. D.) Salesroom 

744 Broadway^ 
Kelsea, Joseph N. (See Antrim, N. H.) Salesroom of Selling* 
Agent 57 Mercer Street- 
King, Alexander & Co. Dealers in Organzine, Tram, Fringes, 
Machine Twist and Sewing Silk. Salesroom, 54 Leonard Street. 
Kingman & Freeman. Dealers in Organzine, Tram, Fringe Silk, 
&c. Agents for Streeter & Mahew, Glenwood Mills, Haskell Silk 

Co., R. Childs, J. N. Kelsea, and R. S. Clark. Salesroom 

57 Mercer Street. 

Klous, Seman k Co. Novelty Silk "Works. Silk Novelties 

113 Mercer Street. 

Krause, R. Embossing Silk and Velvet 138 TVooster Street.. 

Kresse, F. C. Dress Trimmings. (Not found Oct., 1880.) Formerly, 

300 Canal Street. 
Krumsick, Rudolph. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. 

Factory and Salesroom 29 Howard Street, 

Kunz, Samuel. Ribbons and Fringes 413 East 25th Street. 

Kursheedt Manufacturing Co. Dress and Upholstery Trimmings, 

190 to 194 South Fifth Avenue.. 

Langlotz, Louis. Dress and Cloak Trimmings 

461 West 40th Street. 

Laurent, Eugene. Needle-wrought Silk Buttons 

225 East 125th Street- 
Lehman, Reinhardt & Selling. Undertakers' Supplies 

105 to 111 Crosby Street. 

Leiter, J. H. Upholstery Trimmings and Gimps 

210 and 212 Canal Street- 

*Leonard Silk Co. (See Warehouse Point, Conn.) Salesroom 

140 Church Street. 

Leschhorn, F. & Co. Dress and Cloak Trimmings, Cords, Tassels,. 

Chenilles and Buttons. Factory and Salesroom, 21 Howard Street.. 

Lindenthal Bros. Upholstery and Drapery Trimmings. Agency, 

Boston. Office 739 and 741 Broadway.. 

Lipper, M. TV. & Co. (See Philadelphia.) Salesroom 

338 Broadway- 
Lips & Nathan. Lyons and Cref elder Silk Rennishing Establish- 
ment. Factoiy and Office 28 Howard Street. 

Lobenstein, S. Upholstery Trimmings 38 East 14th Street. 

Lockett, John. (See Paterson, X. J.) Salesroom of Selling Agents, 

85 Leonard Street- 
Loehrs, Charles & Son. Fringe Ties 105 Prince Street.. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



NEW YORK CITY. 



19 



Lowenstein, J. & Co. Fringes, Cords and Passementerie 

85 Walker Street. 
*Loth, Joseph & Co. Ribbons and Bindings. Salesroom, 458 Broome 
Street. Factory 517 to 523 West 45th Streets- 
Lyons Silk Woi'ks. (See Pater son, N. J.) Salesroom of Selling 

Agents 34 Walker Street.. 

Macfarlane, James S. (See Mansfield Centime, Conn.) Salesroom. . . 

43 Walker Street. 
*Mackay, J. P. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom, 89 Leonard Street. 

Mackie, J. B. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist Spooler 

227 West 22d Street- 
Mai dhof, J. Fringes and Dress Trimmings, Cords, Tassels and 
Chenille Fringes. Agencies, Philadelphia, Chicago and San Fran- 
cisco. Factory and Salesroom 401 Broadway .. 

Manchester Gimp Co. (See Brooklyn, E. D.) Salesroom 

429 Broome Street. 

Handel, Henry. Dress Trimmings, Braids, Cords and Molds 

114 Centre Street.. 

Mantoue & Boehm. Fringes and Dress Trimmings, 

69 Mercer Street, 

Martin, Adam & Co. (See Paterson, N. J.) 

Salesroom of Selling Agents 84 Franklin Street. 

Martin, Charles N. Sewing Silk and Twist 

Salesroom, 350 Canal Street. 

Masius, Leopold. Fringes and Braids, 647 Broadway- 
Matter, John. Silk Dyer, 333 West 44th Street. 

Menges, A. & Co. Dress and Cloak Trimmings, 

644 and 646 Broadway. 

*AIeyenberg, S. M. (See Paterson, N. J.) 

Salesroom, 40 Lispenard Street. 

Meyer, L. & Co. Upholstery Trimmings. Factory and Salesroom, 

424 Broome Street. 

Moeller, Frederick. Yarns 61 Lispenard Street- 

Moeser, James. Upholstery, Dress and Cloak Trimmings 

117 Macdougal Street, 
Moll, August. (See Brooklyn, N. Y.). . .Salesroom, 109 Grand Street. 

Morlot, George. (See Paterson, K J.) 

New York Office, 454 Broome Street. 

Morrison, James. Dress and Cloak Trimmings . . 28 Howard Street. 

Miiller, Ernst. Millinery Trimmings 

Factory and Salesroom, 127 Grand Street- 



* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America, 



'I20 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

^Murray, Russell. Dealer in Organzine and Tram, and English and 

Domestic Cotton Yarns 52 Greene Street. 

Neuburger Braid Co. (See Paterson, K J.) 

Salesrooms, 39 and 41 Walker Street. 

Neustadter, William. Dealer in Tram, Organzine and Spun Silk. . . . 

Salesroom, 83 Mercer Street. 

New, Jacob. Ribbons. , 

Factories, 529 to 533 West 54th, and 522 to 526 West 55th 

Street; Salesroom, 63 Greene Street. 

*New York Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Marion, K J.) 

Salesroom, 70 Greene Street- 
New York Woven Label Manufacturing Co. Wm. Friedhof. Woven 

Silk Labels and Hangers for Coats, Hats and Shirts; also Silk 

Badges 

Factory, 52 Mercer Street; Office, 479 Broadway. 

Nightingale Bros. (See Paterson, N. J.) 

Salesroom of Selling Agents, 107 Franklin Street and 55 White St. 

Office, 299 Broadway. 

Nightingale, James, Sr. (See Paterson, N. J.) 

Salesroom, 70 Greene Street. 

*Nonotuck Silk Co. (See ^Florence, Mass.) 

Salesroom, 19 Mercer Street. 

Nordheim & Deimel. Upholstery Trimmings 734 Broadway. 

O'Brien, Maurice. Worsted. Worsted and Silk, and Silk Upholstery 

Trimmings. Factory and Salesrooms, 

90 and 92 Bowery. 
*Oneida Community. (See Community, N. Y.) Thomas Handy, Agent. 

Salesroom, ... 387 Broadway. 

-Opper, Morris. Dress Trimmings 

Factory and Salesroom, 684 Broadway. 

Owen & Stiffsonn. Bullion, Fancy and Chenille Fringes, Borders, 

Galloons, Gimps, Cords and Tassels 109 East 13th Street. 

Paterson Dyeing and Finishing Co. (See Paterson N. J.) 

New York Office, . . 27Mercer Street. 

*Pelgram & Meyer. (See Paterson, N. J.) 

Salesrooms, 57 and 59 Greene Street. 

Penrose <fc Co. (See Paterson, N. J.) 

Salesroom of Selling Agents, 87 Leonard Street. 

Phillips, A. L. & Co. Cloak, Furriers' and Hatters' Trimmings. . . 

121 Spring Street. 
♦Phoenix Manufacturing Co. (See Paterson, N. J.) 

Salesrooms, 90 to 94 Grand Street 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



NEW YORK CITY. 121 

Piek, S. Fringes and Cloak Trimmings. Office, GOT and GOO Broadway. 

Factory, Bleecker Street and South Fifth Avenue. 

Pocachard, A. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom of Selling Agents, 

55 White Street. 

Popper & Halm. Dress Trimmings 177 Mercer Street. 

ProsDitz, D. Cords, Ornaments and Tassels . . .424 Broome Street. 
Bauch, John. Novelty Embroidery Co. Embroideries by hand 

and machine 12 Lispenard Street. 

Beitmeyer, Wm. (See Brooklyn, K Y) 

Salesroom, 260 Canal Street. 

Beshower, Joseph. Dress Trimmings, Fringes, Ornaments and 

Trimmings 3 East Fourth Street. 

Bomann, William. Cords and Tassels 552 Broadway. 

Byer & Wagner. Upholstery Trimmings, Frame Fringes, Tassels, 

Cord and Curtain Loops 

Factory and Salesrooms, 167 and 169 Canal Street. 

*Byle, William. Dealer in Thrown Silks (also Importer of Baw 

Silks.) 54 Howard Street. 

;Sacks & Bro. Silk Fringes. Factory and Salesroom, ... .... 

34 Greene Street. 

Salate Bros. Dress Trimmings. Factory and Salesroom, 

170 and 172 Centre Street. 

Sandmann, Philip. Furriers', Dress and Cloak Trimmings 

263 Bowery. 

*Sauquoit Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Sauquoit, N. Y.) 

Salesroom, 54 Howard Street. 

-Schmadeke & Underbill. Dress and Cloak Trimmings 

Factory and Salesroom, « 444 Broome Street. 

Schmid, Francis J. Coach Laces and Carriage Trimmings 

Factory and Salesroom 5 West Fourth Street. 

Schmidt, C. A. Drapery and Upholstery Trimmings 

Factory and Salesroom, 83 and 85 Chambers, and 65 and 67 
Beade Streets. 
iSchmutz, K. Dress and Millinery Trimmings . 504 West 45th Street. 

Schnitzler, B. Cords, etc 1 58 South Fifth Avenue. 

Schoals & Howell. (See Lyons Silk Works, Paterson, N. J)" 

Salesroom, 34 Walker Street, 

Schwensen & Becker. Fringes, Dress Trimmings, Chenille, Cords, 
Tassels and Ornaments. Agencies, at Boston, Chicago and Phila- 
delphia. 

Factory and Salesroom, 15 and 17 Mercer Street. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



122 . AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

*Seavey, Fibster & Bowman. (See Eure 7 ci Silk Manufacturing Co., 

Canton, Miss.) Salesroom 7 Mercer Street. 

See & Sheehan. (See Pater son, N. J.) New York Office, 

96 Grind Street.. 
*Silbermann, J. & Co. Bonnet and Belt Bibbons, Dress Trimmings, 

S.Ik Handkerchiefs and Piece Goods 

Factories, 452 to 456 Tentli Avenue, and at Main Street, 
Poaghkeepsie. New York Salesroom, ... 53 Greene Street.. 

Silberstein, M. Furriers' Trimmings 115 Mercer Street. 

*Simon, Herman. (See Weehawlcen, N. J.) Salesrooms 

57 to 63 Greene Street.. 

*Skinner, Geo. B. & Co. (See Yonkers, N. Y) Salesroom 

27 Mercer Street. 

* Skinner, William. (See Holyoke, Mass'.) Salesroom 

43 Mercer Street. 
Smith, E. B. (See Gurleymlle, Conn.) Salesroom of Selling Agents, 

456 Broadway. 
Southworth Bros. (See Pater son, N. J.) Salesrooms of Selling 

Agents 87 and 89 Leonard Street. 

Splitdorf, Henry. Silk Covering to Telegraph Wire 

180 Centre Street. 

Springer, K. & Co. Dealers in Tram and Twist 

464 Broome Street. 

^Springfield Silk Co. (See Springfield, Mass.) Salesroom 

73 Leonard Street. 
Stanton Brothers. Commission Merchants and Manufacturers of 

Silk and Lace Novelties 466 Broome Street. 

*Stearns, John N. & Co. Black and Colored Gros Grain Silks, Bro- 
caded Dress Silks, Plain and Fancy Handkerchiefs. Factories, 
213 to 221 East 42d Street, and 214 to 224 East 43d Street.. 

Salesroom 458 Broome Street. 

Stehr, Carl. Silk and Cotton Labels and Coat Hangers for Clothiers. . 

22 Eldridge Street. 

Steinhardt, A. Cords and Tassels 147 Woosier Street. 

Stepath, Charles. Dress and Cloak Trimmings, Fringes, Cords and 

Tassels. Factory and Salesroom 

50 Mercer Street and 477 Broadway. 

* Strange, William & Co. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesrooms 

42 and 44 Greene Street. 
Straus, F. A. Cotton, Worsted and Silk Yarns. ..29 Howard Street. 
Streeter & Mahew. (See Shelburne Falls, Mass.) Salesroom of Sell- 
ing Agents 57 Mercer Street. . 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



NEW YORK CITY. 123 

Sturzenegger, R. Embroideries 321 East 6 th Street, 

Sutro Bros. Silk, Mohair, Cotton and Gilt Braids, Tubular Braids 
and Hat Cords, Bow Ties, Fringe Braids, and Braided Cords. 
Sole Manufacturers of Braids on Patent Cards. Agencies at 

Boston and Chicago. Factory and Salesroom 

35 and 37 Wooster Street. 
Teste, Molinero & Co. (See West Hoboken, N. J.) Salesroom of 

Selling Agents 457 Broome Street. 

Thalmann, N. Silk Bibbons 19th Street and 11th Avenue. 

Ther, William. (See New Brunsivick, N. J.) Office, 383 Broadway. 
Thorp, James H. & Co. (See Manchester Gimp Co., Brooklyn.) 

Salesrooms 429 Broome Street. 

Thorp, Robert & Sons. Galloons, Prussian Bindings, Bibbons, Silk, 

Cotton and Mohair Braids 52 Greene Street. 

Tilt, B. B. & Son. (See Phoenix Manufacturing Co., Paterson, N. J.). . 

90 to 94 Grand Street. 
Tingue, House & Co. Mohair, Genappe, Worsted, Cotton and Spun 

Silk Yarns - . . , 56 Reade Street. 

Turner, P. "W. & Son. (See Turnerville, Conn.) Salesroom 

27 Greene Street. 

Ulmer & Pauer. Silk Dyers 13 to 17 Crosby Street. 

Union Braiding Works. John Henry Vogt. Silk, Cotton and 
Worsted Braids, Dress and Millinery Trimmings and Novelties. 

Factory, 13 Baxter Street. Office 42 1 Broadway. 

Tan Liew, H. A. Dress Goods. Factory, 6 1 7 West 39th Street. 

Office. . ' 140 Church Street. 

Tickers & Weston. (See Philadelphia.) Salesroom 

52 White Street, 
Tictory Silk Mills. (See Jersey City Heights, N. J.) Salesroom of 

Selling Agents, 55 White Street. 

* Walter, Richard. Organzine, Tram and Ribbons 

Mills, 452 to 458 West 46th Street, Salesroom of Selling 

Agents 222 and 224 Church Street. 

Webendorfer, H. & Co. Cords, Fringes, Tassels and Trimmings. . . . 

288 Bowery. 

Wehrlin, M. & Co. Silk Dyers , 

10th Avenue, bet. 44th and 45th Streets. 
*Weidmann, J. (See Paterson, N. J.) New York Office, 

46 Howard Street. 

Weil, L. Dress and Cloak Trimmings, 75 Greene Street. 

Weinberg, R. & Son. Upholstery Trimmings, 

740 and 742 Broadway 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



124 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

"Weinberg, C. W. Dress Trimmings. Salesroom, 23 Howard Street* 
"Weiss, Willliam & Co. Fringes and Dress Trimmings 

Factory and Salesroom, ... 534 Broadway. 

Winfield, A. D. & Co. (See Paterson, N.J.) 

Salesroom of Selling Agents, 71 Franklin Street. 

"Williams, P. H. & W. Silk and Worsted Upholstery Trimmings 

145 and 147 Fifth Avenue. 

"Wimpfheimer, C. Dress Trimmings 113 Mercer Street. 

Wortendyke Manufacturing Co. (See Wbrtendyke, N. J.) 

Salesroom of Selling Agents, 87 Leonard Street. 

Tondork, William. Dress Trimmings. 156 Orchard Street. 

Zaissen, William. Silk Dyer 333 West 62d Street.. 

BROOKLYN. 

Carpenter, E. Upholstery Trimmings, Cords and Tassels. (Not in 

operation October, 1880.) 947 Broadway Brooklyn, E. D. 

Estberg, E. Shade Tassels and Cords. Office, 460 Pearl Street, New 
York. 

Factory, 72 to 76 Hamburg Avenue, Brooklyn, E. D. 

Halsey, A. Designing and Painting on Silk 

287 Union Street, Brooklyn. 

Hobley Bros. William H. C. K. Higgins, Agent. Belt Kibbons, 

Dress Trimmings, etc. Salesroom, 107 Grand Street, New York. 

Factory 56 and 58 North 1st Street, Brooklyn, E. D. 

^Jennings, A. G. Guipure, Thread, Blonde, Brussels and Bretonne 
Laces, Lace Mitts, Scarfs, Neck Ties and Hair Nets. Salesrooms, 
473 and 475 Broome Street, New York. 

Factory, " Jennings Lace W r orks," Park Avenue and Hall 
Street, Brooklyn. 
Kelty, G. L. & Co. Upholstery, Trimmings, Furniture Coverings and 
Curtain Materials, Cords, Gimps, Tassels, Fringes, etc. Salesroom,. 
744 Broadway, New York. 

Factory, 197 to 207 10th Street, Brooklyn, E. D. 

Manchester Gimp Co. Furniture Gimps. Agents, James H. Thorp 
& Co., 429 Broome Street, New York. 

Factory corner of North 4th and 5th Streets, Brooklyn, E. D. 
Maynard, A. & Co. Upholstery Trimmings. 

Factory and Salesroom . . 100 South 6th Street, Brooklyn, E. D. 
McLure, S. Upholstery and Dress Trimmings, Fringes, Cords, Tas- 
sels and Gimps. Factory and Salesroom, 

261 Fulton Street, Brooklyn. 

Moll, August. Braids. Salesroom, 109 Grand Street, New York. . . 

Factory, 146 to 152 First Street, Brooklyn, E. D. 



* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



NEW YORK STATE. 125: 

Need, Samuel N. Nottingham, Calais and Brooklyn Lace Works. 
(Not in operation, October, 1880.) Hey ward Street, cor. Wythe 
Avenue, Brooklyn, E. D. 

Naul, J. Cords and Braids 128 Myrtle Street, Brooklyn, E. D. 

Reitmeyer, William. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. Salesroom, 

2G0 Canal Street, New York. 

Factory, 17 to 27 South Third Street. Brooklyn, E. D. 

Soar, Henry G. H. Nottingham Laces and Hair Nets 

58 and 6J North First Street, Brooklyn, E. D. 

Steinborn & Huppelsberg. Dress Trimmings and Laces 

57 and 59 Scholes Street, Brooklyn, E. D. 
Will, Jacob. Hat Cords. . ..357 South Third Street, Brooklyn, E. D. 

Willis, Thomas. Marine Pictures in Silk 

91 Degraw Street, Brooklyn. 

NEW YORK STATE, Continued. 

Ashley, William. (See Paterson, N. J.) 

Mills, at Fort Plain.. 

*Copcutt, William H. & Co. Ribbons, Handkerchiefs, and Piece 
Goods. Salesroom, 31 Greene Street, New York. 

Mills, . Neppherhan Av., Yonkers. 

Dumas & Taber. (See Paterson, K J.) 

Factory, at Koslyn, L. I. 

*Funke, Hugo. Ribbons, Organzine and Tram. Salesrooms, 

23 and 25 Greene Street, New York. 

Mills, College Point, L I. 

Haiges, M. Dress Trimmings 46 Arcade Building, Buffalo. 

Hilton, Isaac. Dress Trimmings > .. 

Factory and Salesroom 179 River Street, Troy- 
Jewell & Bassett. Central City Ruffling and Lace Goods Manufactory. 

43 to 47 Monroe Block, Syracuse- 
Lacy, Lawrence. Lace Goods .... 48 South Salina Street Syracuse. 
Macfarlane, William. Nepperhan Silk Works. Thrown Silk, Sewing 

Silk and Machine Twist 

Mills and Salesroom Yonkers. 

*Nonotuck Silk Co. (See Florence, Mass.) 

Salesroom, at Gloversville. 

*Oneida Community. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. Thomas. 
Handy, Agent. Salesroom, 387 Broadway, New York. 

Mills, ...... Community.. 

*Sauquoit Silk Manufacturing Co. L. R. Stelle, President; Richard 
Rossmassler, Treasurer. Tram, Organzine and Fringe Silks 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



126 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

Factories, Sauquoit, near Utica, N. T.; Scranton, Pa., and 
Philadelphia. Sile^room^, cor. CDlumbia Avenue and 
Eandolph Street, Philadelphia, and 54 Howard Street, 

New York Sauquoit. 

*Silberman, J. & Co. (See New lork, N Y.) 

Mill at Poughkeepsie, N . Y. 

^Skinner, Geo. B. & Co. Tram, Organzine, Fringe Silk, Sewing 
Silk and Machine Twist, Salesroom, 27 Mercer Street, New York. 

Mills, Yonkers. 

Togt, Albrecht. Dress Trimmings , 

116 North St. Paul Street, Rochester. 

OHIO. 

Atkins, "W. E 102 West 5th Street, Cincinnati. 

*Aub, Hackenburg & Co. (See Philadelphia.) Salesroom 

69 West 3d Street, Cincinnati. 

Bauer, Adolph. Fringes and Dress Trimmings 

142 West 5th Street, Cincinnati. 

*Belding, Bros. & Co. (See Rockmlle, Conn.) Salesroom 

56 West 4th Street, Cincinnati. 

Broegelman, F. Upholstery Trimmings 

204 Vine Street, Cincinnati. 

Franz, John. Fringes and Upholstery Trimmings 

25 Oregon Street, Cleveland. 

Hoffmeister, F. Fringes and Passementerie 

152 West 4th Street, Cincinnati. 

Hoffmeister, Louis. Fringes, Tassels, &c 

104 West 5th Street, Cincinnati. 

Mueller, Anton 7 East Pearl Street, Cincinnati. 

*Nonotuck Silk Co. (See Florence, Mass.) Salesroom 

88 West 3d Street, Cincinnati. 

PENNSYLVANIA. 

PHILADELPHIA. 

*Aub, Hackenburg & Co. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. Sales- 
rooms, 20 North 3d Street, Philadelphia ; 15 Mercer Street, New 
York ; 19 Light Street, Baltimore ; 69 West 3d Street, Cincinnati; 
152 Fifth Avenue, Chicago. 

Factory 244 to 248 North Front Street, Philadelphia. 

Barlow, Noah. Upholstery raw and spun Silks 

53d Street and Westminster Avenue, West Philadelphia. 

*Belding Bros. & Co. (See Rockmlle, Conn.) Salesroom 

6th, cor. of Arch Streets, Philadelphia. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



PHILADELPHIA. 127 

*Brainerd & Armstrong Co. (See New London, Conn.) Salesroom. . 

238 Market Street, Philadelphia. 

Bromly & Burns. Dyers of Yarns and Silk Noils 

4026 Orchard Street, Philadelphia. 
Brooks, George & Son. Upholstery and Furniture Coverings. Fac- 
tory and Salesroom 

55th Street and Wyalusing Avenue, Philadelphia. 

Courts, H 163 North 2d Street, Philadelphia. 

Coleman, William. Upholstery Trimmings 

25 North 6th Street, Philadelphia. 

Croxton & Wood. (Reported not running, April, 1880.) 

Wayne Station, Germantown, Philadelphia. 

*Cutter, John D. & Co. (See Newark, N J.) Salesroom 

735 Market Street, Philadelphia. 
Cunningham, W. B. Upholstery Trimmings. Factory and Sales- 
room, 204 Church Street, Philadelphia. 

Davenport, H. Upholstery Trimmings. Factory and Salesroom . . . 
Corner of Mascher and York Streets, Philadelphia. 

Davenport, John. Upholstery Trimmings 

1717 Bodine Street, Philadelphia. 

Davenport, George & Edwin. Upholstery Trimmings 

Susquehanna Avenue and American Street, Philadelphia. 

Dour e dour e & Hensel. Dress Trimmings 

319 to 323 Garden Street, Philadelphia. 
Freyer, H. T. Dress Trimmings. Salesroom, 727 Jayne Street. . . . 

Factory, 25 South Eight Street, Philadelphia. 

Godshalk, E. H. Fringes. Salesroom, 71 Franklin St., New York. 
Factory, cor. of Twelfth and Buttonwood Streets, Philadelphia, 

Goldberg, Emil. Fringes and Dress Trimmings 

122 Onas Street, Philadelphia. 

*Graham, J. C. Dress, Cloak and Upholstery Trimmings 

Factory and Salesroom, 513 Cherry Street, Philadelphia. 

Griswold, W. A. & Co. (See Darby, Pa.) 

Office, 322 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia. 

*Hall, L. C. Jr. & Co., Agents. (See Belding Bros. & Co., Rockmlle, 

Conn.) 

Cor. of Sixth and Arch Streets, Philadelphia. 
Hansell, S. R. & F. Upholstery Trimmings. (Reported not manu- 
facturing, April, 1880.) 

Salesroom, ... 21 North Fourth Street, Philadelphia. 

Harned, L. M. & Co. (See Bristol, Penn.) 

Salesroom, ... 9 Bank Street, Philadelphia. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



128 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

Harrop, J. T. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist 

621 Market Street, Philadelphia. 

Heltwig, Albert. Skein Silk Dyer Philadelphia. 

Heminway, M. & Sons, Silk Co. (See Walertown, Conn) ... 

14 North Fifth Street, Philadelphia. 

Hensel, Colladay & Co. Dress Trimmings 

Factory and Salesroom, 22 to 24 North Fourth Street, (About 

moving to Seventh Street, near Arch,) Philadelphia. 

*Holland Manufacturing Co. (See Willimnntic, Conn.) 

Salesroom, 633 Market Street, Philadelphia. 

Hooley, B. & Son. Tram, Twist and Fringe Silk 

Mill, 319 Garden Street; Office, 226 Market St., Philadelphia. 
*Horstmann, William H.& Sons. Gum Silks, Dress and Cloak Trim- 
mings, Ribbons, Fringes, Floss, Upholstery Trimmings. Coach and 
Carriage Laces and Trimmings, Jacquard Weaving, Military Equip- 
ments, Regalia, Theatrical Goods, Silk Flags, Bunting, Sashes and 

Scarfs 

Salesroom, 410 Broadway, New York, ami at Factory, cor. of 

Fifth and Cherry Streets, Philadelphia. 

*Hovey, F. S. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist . 

Salesroom, 248 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia. 

Hoyle, Harrison & Kaye. Raw Silks for Upholstery 

Cor. of Mascher and Master Streets, Philadelphia. 

Hunter, Samuel. Silk Spooling for Upholstery 

Rusk's Mill, Trenton and Adams Street, Philadelphia. 

Hunter, William & Son. Upholstery Coverings and Tapestries 

611 to 617 Dickenson Street, Philadelphia. 

*Itschner (Werner) & Co. Tioga Silk Mill. Ribbons and Hatbands. 

Salesrooms, 712 Market Street, Philadelphia, and 70 Mercer Street, 

New York 

Mills, Tioga Station, Germantown, Philadelphia. 

Jenkins & Avery. Upholstery Trimmings 

313 Race fc Street, Philadelphia. 

Jones, T. & Son. Silk Dyers 

110 and 112 Putnam Street, Philadelphia. 
Kaufman, Strouse & Co. Scarfs, Ribbons, Fringes and Dress Trim- 
mings Corner of 4th and Race Streets, Philadelphia. 

Kemper & McAuliffe. Fringes. Factory and Salesroom 

33 South 4th Street, Philadelphia. 

Landenberger, Chas. H 1711 Randolph Street, Philadelphia. 

*Leonard Silk Co. (See Warehouse Point, Conn.) Salesroom 

235 Arch Street, Philadelphia. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of America. 



PHILADELPHIA. 12 

Lipper, M. W. & Co. Keystone Braid Mills. Dress Trimming?- 
Salesrooms, 144 and 146 North 5th Street, Philadelphia ; 33G 
Broadway, New York ; and 49 Summer Street, Boston. 

Mills at Wayne Station and Philadelphir . 

Maurer, F. W. Upholstery Trimmings in Silk and Silk and 

Worsted 7 and 9 North 5th Street, Philadelphir. 

Montague & White. Silk Noil Yarns for Raw Silk Tapestries, Repr , 

Upholstery Goods and Tassels 

Howard and Berks Streets, Philadelphi • 
Morel, Charles. Silk Dyer . . 2219 Richmond Street, Philadelphir. 

Oldfield & Bro. Upholstery Goods 

55th Street and Haverford Road, Philadelphia. 

Parks, G. A. & Co. (See Camden, N. J.) Salesroom 

34 South 2d Street, Philadelphia. 

Perry, Vincent 48 Harvey Street Germantown, Philadelphia. 

ReDard, H. Tram and Fringe Silk Throwster 

319 to 323 Garden Street, Philadelphia 

Revel, Justinian. Dress Goods and Dress TrimmiDgs. 

55th Street and Wyalusing Avenue Philadelphia. 

Ridgeway, Edward. Upholstery Goods 

62d Street, West Philadelphi. . 

Roehm, Joseph. Dealer in Sewing Silk and Twist. Ofnce 

47 South 4th Street, Philadelphia. 
Rose, Charles. Cords, Dress Trimmings and Tassels. Factory and 

Salesroom 432 North 3d Street, Philadelphia. 

*Sauquoit Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Sauquoit, N. Y.) Factory 

and Salesroom 

Corner of Columbia Avenue and Randolph Street, Philadelphi: . 

Schultheiss, E. Dress Trimmings and Fringes 

Corner 3d and Poplar Streets, Philadelphir:. 
Shrack & Sherwood. Dress and Upholstery Trimmings and Passe- 
menterie 231 Market Street, Philadelphia. 

*Spiingneld Silk Co. (See Springfield, Mass.) Salesroom 

17 South 4th Street, Philadelphi. . 

Stead & Miller. Upholstery Goods 

Coral and Adams Streets, Philadelphia. 

Sybert, Josiah B. Silk and Worsted Goods 

Columbia Avenue, below Tenth Street, Philadelphia 
Yickers & Weston. Cotton, Wool, and Wool and Silk Hosiery . 
Agencies, Colladay, Trout & Co., 24 and 16 Bank Street, Phila- 
delphia, and 52 White Street, New York 

Factory, Howard Street, cor. Montgomery Avenue, Philadelphia. 

* Denotes connection by membership with the Silk Association of Ameri a. 



130 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

"Walliser, August. Fringes, Cords and Buttons 

132 North Eighth Street, Philadelphia. 
Walliser, Charles. Cords, Millinery Fringes and Passementeries . . . 

251 North Eighth Street, Philadelphia. 

Woelpper Bros. Upholstery Trimmings 

Lehigh Avenue and Third Street, Philadelphia. 
PENNSYLVANIA, Continued. 

Adelaide Silk Factory Mill, at Allentown. 

*Brainerd & Armstrong Co. (See New London, Conn.) 

Salesroom, 4 Fifth Avenue, Pittsburgh. 

*Dexter, Lambert & Co. (See Pater son, N. J.) 

Belmont Mill, Hawley. 

Griswold, W. A. & Co. Spun Silk. Office, 322 Chestnut Street, 
Philadelphia. Mills, at Darby. 

Harned, L. M. & Co. Upholstery Trimmings 

Salesroom, 9 Bank Street, Philadelphia. Factory, Bristol. 

*Sauquoit Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Sauquoit, N Y.) 

Mills, at Scranton. 

RHODE ISLAND. 
It. I. Braiding Machine Co. G. K. Winchester, Treasurer; B. B. 

Edwards, Resident Agent. Silk, Mohair and other Braids 

89 Abom Street, Providence. 
UTAH TERRITORY. 

Egbert, D. K. Dress Goods and Sewing Silk Kaysville. 

Utah Silk Association. Hon. William Jennings, President; P. A. 
Schettler, Treasurer; Hon. Alex. C. Pyper, Superintendent. Rib- 
bons and Silk Culture. Factory, City Creek Kanyon. Office, 

Salt Lake City. 
VERMONT. 

Stearns, J. F. Sewing Silk and Twist 

Mills and Salesroom, Brattleboro'. ■ 

VIRGINIA. 
Old Dominion Manufacturing Co. M. Umstadter, President. Em- 
broideries, Norfolk. 

CANADA. 

*Belding, Paul & Co. Sewing Silk and Twist. (See Bockvitte, Conn.) 

Salesroom and Mill, . . 28 and 30 St. George Street, Montreal. 

Canada Silk Co. A. M. Foster, Pres.; C. Bailis, Sec. and Treas.; 

Reuben Ryle, Manager. Sewing Silk, Machine Twist and Dress 

Goods Montreal. 

Corriveau & Co. Plain and brocaded broad Silks Montreal. 

* Denotes connection by member3hip with the Silk Associat : on of America. 



IMPORTERS OF RAW SILK. 131 

IMPORTERS OF RAW SILK. 

NEW YORK. 

♦Adachi, Nanishiro , 46 Murray Street 

*Auffmordt, C. A. & Co : 33 and 35 Greene Street. 

*Blydenburgh, Jesse S 60 Pine Street. 

♦Carter, Hawley & Co 106 Water Street. 

*Caswell, John C. & Co 87 Front Street. 

Fearon, Low & Co., Shanghai Agency, 112 Front Street. 

*Fogg, H. & Co 32 Burling Slip. 

Fraser, Farley & Co., Yokohama Agency, 64 South Street. 

Frazer & Co., Yokohama Agency, 74 South Street. 

*Gibbes, A. H., Agent of Swire Bros., Shanghai 93 Wall Street. 

*Hadden & Co 109-111 Worth Street. 

♦Kai, Oria, Agent of Yamato Trading Co., Japan. .51 Mercer Street. 

Lane, George W. & Co 107 Water and 93 Front Streets. 

♦Low, A. A. & Bros 31 Burling Slip. 

*Low, C. Adolph & Co 42 Cedar Street. 

Luckemeyer & Schefer, Agents of H. Ludwig & Co., Yokohama 

472 Broome Sireet. 

♦Ludwig, E., Agents of Aries Dufour & Co., Lyons 

454 Broome Street. 

♦Milton, Wm. F. & Co 159 Maiden Lane. 

Morewood & Co 71 South Street. 

Phillips, J. C. & Co 130 Water Street. 

♦Pomeroy, S. W., Jr., Agent of Russell & Co., Hong Kong 

59 Wall Street. 

♦Ryle, William 54 Howard Street. 

♦Sato & Arai, Agents of Shiro Tashiro, Yokohama. 55 Walker Street. 

♦Smith, BeDjamin D., Agent of Vogel & Co., Canton 

113 Water Street. 

♦Smith, Wm. H. & Son 77 William Street. 

Stens, Wm. & Co 477 Broome Street. 

♦Walker, John T 81 Pine Street. 

♦Wetmore, Cryder & Co 74 South Street. 

♦Wood, Payson & Colgate 64 Pine Street. 

♦Yamada, O., & M. Fukui 58 Walker Street. 

♦Yamao, K, Agent of Mitsui & Co., Yokohama . . .46 Murray Street, 



IMPORTERS OF SPUN SILK. 

ThairlwaU, Wm. C 38 Lincoln Street, Boston. 

Walmsley, Philip & Co 353 Canal Street. 

* Indicates membership in the Silk Association of America. ,. 



32 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

BROKERS IN RAW SILK. 

NEW ZOEK. 

Allen, H. S 27 Greene Street. 

Busch, P 107 Grand Street . 

: O'Donoglme, ~D 51 Greene Street. 

: Haywood, Geo. M 90 Franklin Street. 

: Johnson, Rowland 54 Beaver Street. 

: Richards m, B. & Son 5 Mercer Street. 

'Simes, Charles F 46 Howard Street. 

.Vaklron, Hampden. ..... ... 1 Lispenard Street. 



NEW YORK SILK AND WOOL CONDITIONING 
WORKS. 

Toidebard & Muzard 18 Mercer Street. 

* Indicates membership in the Silk Association of America. 



INDEX OF SUBJECTS. 



Page* 

Adulteration of Raw Silk...... _. 11, 75 

Alpaca Braids 153 

American Silk Goods Directory 95 to 132 

Aniline Black 55 

Aniline colors and dyes . . -. ... 55 to 58 

Armures 45 

Asia, direct trade with 7, 13 

Assorting 16, 25, 26 

Banding 33 

Banking 1 

Uills of Exchange 1 

Bindings 49, 153 

Black Dress Silks See " Dress Silks." 

Blonde Lace 53.156 

Braids 49, 141, 142, 147, 153 

' ' tubular 48 

JBraided Cord 48 

Bretonne Lace. ... 53 

Brocades 33, 34, 35, 39, 42, 158 

Brocatelle 8 

Broker in Mining Stocks 155 

Brokers in Raw Silk , 154 

Brussels Lace 53, 156 

Button -hole Twist ] 41, 145, 147, 150 

Buttons 48 

Cabinets 22,75 

Cardinal color 56 

Census (Xth., U. S ) of the Silk Industry .. 76 

Centennial Exhibition 8,20,23,41,45,56 

Chinese Raw Silk (See 'Raw Silk." 

Cleaner and Cleaning 21, 25 

Color-;— Classification of 20 

Colors— in general See " Dye " and " Dyeing '• 

•Commission Merchants 142, 143, 146, 153, 156, 157, 157 

Competition, sevvings and twist trade 22 

Conditioning House in New York 75 

Consumption— comparative— American and Foreign goods ±2 

•Cordonnet . 48,57 



134 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

PAGE. 

Cords 48,49,141 

Country Silk 11 

Credits, commercial and travelers' 1 

Crefeld Goods 42 

Dale, Thomas N 79' 

Damasse Silks See " Brocades.' 

Dealers in American Silk Manufactures 95 to 132 

Declaration of Independence, Silk Manufactures 14 

Directory, American Silk Goods 95 to 132 

Doublers, Doubles and Doubling 25 

Drafts. ' 1 

Dramming 16,25,26 

Dress Silks 28 to 33, 57, 58, 143, 146, 147, 148, 148, 152, 154, 158 

Duties paid by United States Imports 73, 81. 92, 93 

Dyeing 20, 25. 55 to 58 143, 149 

Dye— pure or weighted, Dress Silks 30, 31, 143, 147, 149 

Liniugs ! 36,143,147 

Ribbons and Braids ... 4.6, 49, 14$ 

Sewings and Twist 17,18,143,147,149 

" " " Spun Silk 39 

in general 58.143,149' 

Dyes, Dyestuffs, and Dyewoods 57 

Edgings 156 

Embroidery Silk 145, 147, 150, 153 

European "Weaving 29, 3 ^ 

RawSilk See " Eaw Silk.' 

Exports, Silk Manufactures from France 90 

Eye-glass Cords 141 

Filatures 10, 11, 74: 

Filature-silk 11, 74 

Filature-waste 37 

Filena Scarfs 52 

Finishing See ' Re-finishing V 

Fishing Lines 150 

Flags, 56 

Flannel Silk 145. 

Florentines „ 35 

Floss and Floss Silk 37, 147, 153 

Fluctuations of Raw Silk. See " Raw Silk."' 

Foulards 55,158 

French Exports See "Exports.'" 

Fringes and Fringe Silk ... 47, 48, 57, 142, 150, 151 

Frisons 37 

Galloons 153 

Gambier . 31 

Gendarme Blue 56- 

Gimp : 49 

Greasy Silks 31 

Grenadine 33, 34, 42, 143, 150> 

Gros Grains (See also Dress Silks) 34- 



INDEX OF SUBJECTS. 135 

PAGE. 

Guipure Lace 51,53, 156 

Hadden, Wm. A 79 

Hair-nets ... 52, 156 

Hamil, Kobert 80 

Hand-made Lace . . . .• 54 

Handkerchiefs 41, 143, 147, 152, 154, 158 

Harnesses, and Harness-work 45 

Home Consumption U. S. Dutiable Imports 92 93 

Importers of Raw Silk See "Raw Silk." 

Imports of Raw Silk 13, 74, 84, 86, 87 

" Silk Manufacturers 88, 89 

" Waste Silk 85 

" Total Dutiable 92, 93 

Insertions 156 

Iron, salts of 31 

Italy, annual product, Raw Silk 12 

Jacquard Goods (See also "Brocades") 152 

Machines 33,39 

Japanese Raw Silk See "Raw Silk." 

Knitting-Silk 49, 59, 145 

Knot, cost of 26 

Knots in spooled thread 17 

Lace (silk) 51 to 54, 156 

Lead, acetate of 11 

Length and Strength See "Testing." 

Levantine. 36 

Light, effect of, on colors 57 

Linings 35,57,147, 148 

Loading Silks See "Dye, Pure or Weighted.'' 

Logwood 31 

London Market, Raw Silk 13, 8S 

Looms See "Power-looms." 

Machinery 8, 21, 33, 35, 40, 45, 49, 52 

Machine-twist 14 to 23, 75, 141, 144, 145, 147, 150, 153 

Manufactures of Silk, Product in U. S 91 

" " Imports of See "Imports." 

" French Exports of See "Exports." 

Marcelines 35 

Measuring Machines 21 

Members, Silk Association of America 65 

Millinery Silks 43, 57, 143, 148, 150, 152, 158- 

Mill-waste 37 

Mining Stocks 155 

Mitts 156 

Mohair (Braids). 1*1, 153 

Moire antique 35 

Neckkerchiefs and Neckties See "Ties." 

Nets See ■ ' Hair-nets. " 

Noils 151 

Nubias 156 



136 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

PAGE. 

Officers, Silk Association of America 63 

Operatives, best class of 9 

" learning their work , 29 

" wages of 78 

Organzine 25, 26, 29, 141, 142,150, 150, 153 

Ounce-goods. . . I ... 17 

Parasol Silks 158 

Passementerie , 47, 48, 49 

Paterson, statistics of silk industry 76, 77 

Peacock colors 56 

Pebrine 12 

Piece-goods, various 33 to 36 

Picking 25.26 

Plushes 148, 150, 152 

Potash Prussiate of 31 

Power-Looms ; . . 8, 29, 45, 142 

Prices of Goods, decline ia '. 8, 22. 75, 76 

Printed Silks 39, 42 158 

Production of Silk Goods in the U. S 91 

Pure D ve See '■ Dye, Pure or Weighted." 

Purl Lace and Purlings , 53 

Quilling '. 25 

Haw Silk, brokers 154 

" Chinese 11, 84 

European 12, 75, 84 

Fluctuations 13, 74, 83 

Importers 142, 143, 146, 146, 148, 151, 152, 152, 153, 154 154, 

lc6. 157, 157 

" Imports See "Imports." 

Italian 12 

Haw Silk, Japanese 11, 74, 84 

" Market, May, 77 to '78. 74 

" Quality used 25,28,51 

" " Reeling 24 

" " Where produced ' 10 

Heeling and Re-reeling 10, 11, 24 

Re-finishing 34,35 

Report of Secretary, Silk Association of America 73 

Ribbons 2, 40, 44 to 46, 148. 158 

Sashes 158 

Satin de Chine 35, 147, 148 

Satin and Satins 33, 34, 35, 39, 42, 158 

Satins, printed 39 

Satin stripes 34 

Scarfs and Scarfings 42, 52, 150, 154 

Schappe Ribbons 40, 46 

Secretary's Report 73 

Serges 35, 36, 147, 148 

Se wing-Machine . 15 

Sewing-Silk ... 14 to 23, 57, 59, 75, 141, 144, 145, 147, 150, 153 



INDEX OF SUBJECTS. i 3 7 

PAGE. 

Shawls 156 

Silk Association of America, Annual Keport 61 

11 ' ■« By-Laws 69 

" " " Members 65 

■■ " Officers 63 

Silk Culture 10 

Smyrna Lase 53 

Soapy Silks 31 

Spanish Lace 53,156 

Spectrum . solar 56 

Spinning and Spinning-frame 25 

Spools and Spool printing. . . 21 

Spun Silk 37 to 40, 151, 158 

Standard Dye ... " 17 

Statistics— Explanation of Tables 81, 82 

Stretcher 21 

Suez Canal. . . 13 

Swivel Cloth 56 

Tariff. Effect of 8, 73 

Tassels , 48, 49 

Telegraphic Transfers 1 

Testing, Sewings and Twist 15, 19, 20 

Silks- Dress Goods 32 

" " Fringes 48 

Thread Lace.... " 53 156 

Thrown Silks 141 

Ties and Tie Silks 42, 143, 152, 154 

Tilt, Benjamin B 79 

Torchon Lace 53 

Tram .. "25,26,29,141,142,150,150,158 

Trimmings 47 to 50, 57, 141, 151 

Tubular Braid 48 

Twist See " Machine Twist." 

Twist, Fringe 142, 149, 151 

Twisting 16, 25 

Umbrellas and Umbrella Silk 36 

Undervaluation of Invoices. 74 

Uniformity in Thickness of Thread 16, 24 

United States Imports See ' ' Imports. " 

Upholstery trimmings and brocatelle 8 

Valenciennes Lace 52 

Value of Silks Manufactured in the United States 91 

Veils and Veiling 8 

Velvets 34,148 

Wages 78 

Warping 25 

Waste Silk 24, 37, 85, 142 

Watch-guards 141 

Watering 35 

Weaving— preparatory processes 24 to 27 



138 AMERICAN SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. 

PAGE. 

Weighing' 16 

"Weighting Silks , See "Dye, Pure or Weighted." 

Winders and Winding 16, 25, 26, 141 

Wool and Worsted "Zephyr," &c 156 

Yard-goods 17 

Yarns 151 



<BtL$i:qe^ Si^otLqdemei^. 



140 



THE SILK GOODS OF AMERICA. 



Business Announcements, 



CATALOGUE OF NAMES. 



Allen, Franklin 155 

AuffmOrdt, C. A. & Co 146 

Brainerd & Armstrong Co 153 

Brown Brothers & Co 1 

Chaffanjon, C 148 

Cheney Bros., 158 

Crawford, P 154 

Cutter, John D. & Co., 147 

Dale, Fred'k S 141 

Dorgeval, P 142 

Eureka Silk M'fg Co., 144 

Fogg, H. &Co., 157 

Franke, Louis 142 

Hayes, T. F 151 

Jennings, A. G 156 

Kai, Oria, 152 

Kingman & Freeman, 150 

Low, C. Adolphe & Co., .... 157 

Lucas, Samuel , 143 

Ludwig, E 156 

Ludwig, H 142 

Mackay, J. Phillips. . » 152 



PAGE. 

Meyenberg, S. M 15a 

Mitsui & Co. , 1 54 

Morlot, George 143 

New, Jacob 14& 

Nonotuck Silk Co., 145 

Pelgram & Meyer, 2 

Pocachard, Anthony 14& 

Richardson, B. & Son, 1 54 

Russell & Co. , 153 

Sato & Arai 151 

Scott, John J 150 

Seavey, Foster & Bowman. ... 144 

Simon, Herman 146 

Smith, Wm. H. & Son, 146 

Thairlwail, Wm. C 151 

Thorp, Robert & Sons, 153 

Walker, John T 148 

Walsh, Hall & Co 143 

Weidmann, J 149 

Wetmore, Ciyder & Co., 152 

Yamada, O., & M. Fukui, ... 154 



The Silk Goods of America. 141 

FREDERICK S. DALE, 

SILK THROWSTER 



AND 



Braid Manufacturer. 

Factory. ™ IDwA-IjE MITiTi, 

PATERSON, N. J. 



Trams lOrganzines Thrown on Commission, 



SOFT SILK WINDING TO ORDER. 



TAILORS' AND LADIES' TRIMMINGS. 

SILK AND MOHAIR BRAIDS, SEWING SILK, 

MACHINE AND BUTTON HOLE 

TWIST, CORDS, &o. 



Silk Watch Guards, Eye Glass Cords, &c 9 &c t 



FREDERICK S. DALE. CHAS. H. KIMBALL. 

DALE & KIMBALL. Agents. 

-3=13 cSs ^=21 B^o^-HD-w-^-sr, 

Cor. of Canal Street. NEW YORK, 



142 The Silk Goods of America. 

H. LUDWIG & CO 

YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 

G^ei^ei^kl Cfommi^ion ^er^kr^. 

SPECIALTY: 

RAW SILK 



AND 



WASTE SILK, 



-AGENTS. 



NEW YORK, MARSEILLES, 

LONDON, BALE, 

LYONS, MILAN. 

Representatives at New York, LUCKEMEYEH & SCHEFER, 472 Broome Street. 

P. DORGEVAL, ' 

MANUFACTURER OF 

THE MOST PERFECT POWER LOOM 



FOR 



Gros Grain and Jacquard Goods. 

Factory : DALE HULTXjXj, Paterson, ILT- J. 

LOUIS FRANKE. KENRY W. 3TRU3S. 

LOUIS FRANKE, 

MANUFACTURER OF 

Organzine, Tram. Twist, Fringe Silk and Braids. 

MILL, PATERSON, N. J. 

Salesroom. 110 GRAND STREET, New York. 



The Silk Goods of America. 143 



George Morlot, 



9 

Of Organzine, Tram, Fringe, Twist, Sewing, and Embroidery Silks. 

COLORS AND BLACK, 

Pure and Weighted, 

For Ribbons, Fancy Goods, Dress Goods and Serges, 

Works : PATERSON, N J. 
Office : 454 BROOME STREET, New York. 

SAMUEL LUCAS, 
Sills. IVJIetnTjLfctotTarer, 

Dress Goods, Tie Silks, Grenadines a specialty, Millinery Goods, 
Handkerchiefs, Etc., 

Washington Market Building, PATERSON, N. J. 

WALSH, HALL & CO., 

YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 

Commission Merchants and Dealers in 

RAW SILK. 

^Represented, in Ue'w "5Torls To3T 

J. S. BLYDENBURGH, 

Od PINE STREET, New York, 



r 44 The Silk Goods of America. 



e^SS ns "ie oo. 



Hi *\l ■ 



MANUFACTURERS OF ^ 



SEWINGS 







FOR SHOE, CLOTHING, 

AND OTHER MANUFACTURING PURPOSES, 

AND FOR FAMILY USE. 



u LIOW," 

»TTT1 T"TT /I 



"EUREKA," 



BAY STATE," 

"EXCELSIOR." 



Seavey, Foster & Bowman, selling Ag'ts. 

40 SUMMER STREET, BOSTON; 

7 MERCER STREET, NEW YORK; 

115 & I 17 FIFTH AVENUE, CHICAGO; 

707 WASHINGTON AVENUE, ST. LOUIS. 



The Silk Goods of America. 



145 



Hoaotuck Silk Co 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



Corlicelli Spool <£ Skein Silk 

MACHINE k BUTTON HOLE TWIST. 



m 



On large and Small Spools, ) 

CONVENIENT for V 

Domestic or Manufacturers' Use. ; 



J Silk, 



Has Great Superiority as to Strength and Regularity 

(See Report of the Judges of Awards, at Philadelphia, 

1876), and was the only American Silk for 

which a Prize Medal was awarded at the 

Paris Expostion, 1878. 

FLORENCE KNITTING SILK. 

A New and Superior Article for Stockings, Mittens, 
Wristers, Edgings, etc., put up in Half- ounce Balls, in Black, 
White and Colors. 

An Illustrated Book of 24 pages of Rules for Knitting, 
with Samples of this Silk, sent free by mail. 

ADDRESS 

NONOTUCK SILK CO., 

FLORENCE, MASS. 



146 The Silk Goods of America. 

WM. H. SMITH &SON, 

IMPORTERS OF 

Japanese and Cnlna 

RAW SILK. 

Tl WILLIAM STREET, New York. 

HERMAN SIMON, 

MANUFACTURER OF 



DRESS SILKS. 

FACTORY, TOWN OF UNION, N. J. 

SALESROOM AT 

E, OELBERMANN & CO., 57 to 63 Greene Street, N. Y. 

C. A. AUFFM ORDT & CO., 

GENERAL COfflMISSION MEMCHAITS, 



-AND- 



Importers of RAW SILK. 
33 & 35 GREENE STREET, NEW YORK 



Paris, 25 Rue Dronot, Lyons, 6 Cuai de Retz, 

London, 39 Finsbary Circus, E. C, Zurich, 79 Bahnnofs Strasse. 

Hamburg : C. h. AUFFM ORDT & SOESNE, 




The Silk Goods of America. 147 

johnTcutter & co~ 

ill ftatmffaduttrs 

329j^331 BROADWAY, 

Cor. Worth Street. NEW YORK. 

NEWARK CITY SILK SKILLS, 

Newark, K J. 

MANUFACTURERS OF 

PURE DYE 

MACHINE TWIST, 

SEWING SILK, 

BUTTON HOLE TWIST, 

EMBROIDERY SILK, 

FLOSS SILK. 

PURE DYE 

CROS GRAINS, 

SERGES, 

SATIN DE CHINE, 

HANDKERCHIEFS, 

SEWING SILK BRAIDS. 



BRANCH OFFICES : 
4*3 Washington street, boston. * 

735 market street, philadelphia. 
137 fifth avenue, chicago. 

palace hotel, san francisco. 



148 The Silk Goods of America. 



H§«J. NEW.4 



MANUFACTURER OF 



Silk Ribbons. 

Office, S3 Greene Street, lew York 

ANTHONY POCACHARD, 

Silk Manufacturer. 

SILK DRESS GOODS. 

yVliLLiNERY Goods, Silk Velvets, Plushes, Etc* 

177 MARKET STREET, 

PATERSON, N. J. 

JOHN T. WALKER, 



IMrORTER OF 



RAW SILK. 

81 PINE STREET, 

C. CHAFFANJON, 



Black aid Colored Q-ros drain, Sirges far Coat Lloingi, 

SA.TITST DE CELESTE. 

177, 179, 181, 183, 185, 187, 189 South Street, Jersey City Heights, N. J. 



The Silk Goods of America. 



149 



J. Weid^ann 



mill iiiii.iiint.i .1 1 ■ ■■ 1 . 1 ■ ■ ■■■,• 1 



OF 



ORG ANZINES, TRAMS AND SEWINGS: 

BLACKS. 

PURE DYED OR WEIGHTED, 

A SPECIALTY. 



Pure and Weighted Colors 



FOR 



FRENCH TWIST m\ FRINGE MANUFACTURERS, 

IN GREY OR DYED, 
ooJsr3a?A.isra?x_.^^ oasr hand. 



DYE WORKS, Pater son, N. J. 

OFFICE, 46 HOWARD STREET, N. Y. 



1*0 



The Silk Goods of America. 





MANUFACTURER OF 

Silks, Scarfs, etc. 

MILLipY SILKS, PLDSH, &PADIHE& 

40 LISPENARD STREET, MT. Y. 



SILK WORKS : 
PATERSON, N. J. HOBOKEN, N. J, 



VlM J. SCOrr 

<-) MANUFACTURER OF > 

Machine Twist, Sewing Silk, 

BUTTON HOLE TWIST, SEWINGS, 

Embroidery? Fringe, Train, Organzine, FisMines, etc. 

PATERSON - , 3tf\ J". 

E.A.KINGMAN. - - A. E. FREEMAN. 

y^ SELLING AGENTS FOR "* ' j 

StreeteT & Mayhew, Shelbume Falls, Mass. B. Childs, Hillsborough Bridge, N. H. 

Glenwood Mills, Easthampton, Mass. ! J. N. Kelsea, Antrim, N. H. 

Haskell Silk Co., • . • • -Saccarappa, Maine. R. S. Clark, Mount Carmel, Conn, 

MANUFACTURERS OF 

Organzine, Tram, Fringe Silk, etc. 

57 MERCER STREET, N. Y. 



The Silk Goods of America. 



151 




Bet. 14th & 15th Streets, 



HA YES, 

Manufacturer and Importer of 

FRINGES 

AND 

Dress Trimming 

5, 7 & 9 Union Square, 

(SPRIBJGL.ER BUILDING,) 

MEW YORK. 



IMPORTERS OF 



Japan Raw Silks, 



55 Walker Street, 



P. O. Box 4720. 



NEW YORK. 



WM. C. THAIRLWALL, 

IMPORTER OF 



hi. n, .ml. .1.1 



'■'"■■■' " iiiiiiiiiiiiiiii ■ 



I I I I I I 






■ [n-rmrmiTrn 1 



1 1 I 1 1 1 1 I I 1 1 1 I I I 1 1 I I I . TIT- 



I I I I I I I 



TWISTS, YARNS AND NOILS 
38 LINCOLN STREET, Boston, Mass. 



152 The Silk Goods of America. 



j. piam s nciif , 










9 ir 

60 to 66 WATER ST., Paterson, N, Y, 

Salesroom, 89 Leonard Si, N. Y, 



Fine Handkerchiefs, Tie Silks, 

JACQUAUD, MILLINEEY & DRESS SILKS. PLUSHES, &o. 



AGEHT OF 

TAMATO BOTEEZISHITOKIAI, 

( Yamato Trading Co., Limited.) 

Importers of RAW SILK. 

51 MERCER STREET, 

P. 0. BOX 2672, NEW YORK, 

Wetmore, Cryder & Co, 

73 & 74 South Street, N. Y. 



IMPORTERS OF 



RAW SILK. 



The Silk Goods of America. 153 

RUSSELL & CO., China: 

COMMISSION MERCHANTS, 

Hong Kon g, Canton, Amoy, Foochow, Shanghai, and Hankow, 

AGENT IN AMERICA, 

S. W. POMEROY, Jr., 

Boston Office, New York Office, 

47 Central Street. 59 Wall Street. 



ESTABLISHED 1794. 



ROBERT THORP & SONS, 

MANUFACTURERS AND IMPORTERS OF 

Galloons, Prussian Bindings, 

SHE, KUMA & liOHAIB 18 AIDS. 

52 Greene Street, New York. 

Warehouses, Manchester and London. Factory, Macclesfield, England 

THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG COMPANY, 

MANUFACTURERS OF 



MACHINE TWIST , 

6o>8Q>p©d) §po>o>!) Silk, WMfovoMovlQ* acid) WU^ 9 

TRADE 3VLA.FU51Si 

"Brainerd, Armstrong & Co.," "Eclipse," "Centennial," "Keystone," "Victoria," "Star," 
"American," "India," "Shoe and Leather," "Imperial." 



s^.jl.desie&ooSv/es : 

469 Broad-way, New York:, i 35 Sharpe Street, Baltimore. 

338 Market Street, Philadelphia. 4r Fifth Avenue, Pittsburgh, 



154 



The Silk Goods of America. 



P. O. Box 862. 




EXPORTERS. 



IMPORTERS OF JAPANESE GOODS, 

RAW SILKS, TEAS, PORCELAINS, &c. 



Branch Houses in Head Office : 

London, Paris, Lyons, Hong Kong, MITSUI, BUSSAN KAISHA, 

SHANGHAI. TOftIO, Japan. 



Other Branch Houses 

in all the important Cities and 

Towns of Japan. 



B. RICHARDSON & SON, 

RAW SILKS, Etc., 



-AND- 



Agents for Messrs. DUE AND, BADEL & CO., Lyons. 
5 Mercer Street, Hew York 

P. CRAWFORD, 

SILK MAMFAOTUREi. 

DRESS GOODS, HANDKERCHIEFS, TIE SILKS, SCARFS, &c. 
Factory : DALE MILL, Paterson, N. J. 

Salesroom: ioj & log Franklin St., New York, 
. O. YAMADA & M. FUKUI, 

N. Y. REPRESENTATIVES OP 

NIHONMATSU FILATURE SILK CO., 
And R. SANO & CO., JAPAN. 

58 WALKER STREET, 

P. O. BOX 2576. iTB-^7- -trOTKESZ. 



The Silk Goods of America. 155 



FRAItfKLIItf ALLEW, 



DEALER IN 




ining Jpkireis and mttnviiitn 



Member American Mining Stock Exchange. 
BUYS AND SELLS MINING STOCKS ON COMMISSION. 



Mone3^ Loaned on Mining Stocks Listed at the 
American Mining Stock Exchange. 



63 BROADWAY, New York 



156 The Silk Goods of America. 

Jennings Lace Works, 

Lace Works at PARK AVENUE & HALL STREET, 

BROOKLYN, N.Y. 

Salesrooms, 473 & 475 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK, 

Manufacturers of the Leading Styles of 

SILK LACE GOODS, 

For Dress Trimmings, Millinery Purposes and Ladies' Neck Wear. 

We Mantjfactube and have in Stock, 

Guipure, Thread, Blonde Laces, Brussel, Spanish, Lace Edgings, 

Insertions and Scarfings, &c. 

SILK LACE MITTS and also HAIR NETS 

In Great Variety. 

ZEPHYR WOOL (Patent) PURL LACE SHAWLS & NUBIAS. 

Centennial Diploma and Medal awarded to our Goods. Our Goods are warranted in every respect. 
Price List and Samples will be forwarded when desired. 

A. G. JENNINGS, Proprietor, 

473 & 475 BROOME STREET, N. Y. 



Agent for ARLES— DTJFOUR & CO., 

General Commission Herchanti 



-AND- 



Importers of RAW SILK: 

454 Broome Street, Cor. of Mercer, 





:lt:e^7- -x"o:ejE3Z- 




LYONS. 


LONDON. 


PARIS. 


ST. ETIENNE. 


MARSEILLES. 


CREFELD. 


BALE. 


HAVRE. 


MILAN. 


ZURICH. 


SHANGHAI. 
YOKOHAMA. 


HONG KONG. 



The Silk Goods of America. 157 

0. ADOLPHE LOW & CO., 
Commission Merchants, 



-IMPORTERS OF- 



Japan, Chi^a and European 

RAW SILK, 



SOLE REPRESENTATIVES OF 



LYONS AMD SHANGHAI. 

42 CEDAR STREET, New York. 

H. FOGG & CO. 

fplfiiffftnij anil Qj&mmiimm miert\nnh f 



IMPORTERS OF 



32 BURLING SLIP, NEW YORK; and SHANGHAI, CHINA. 



Also, GENERAL AGENTS OF 



TIE CHINA ID JIM Tint HIT, Haiti 

Branches : SHANGHAI. NAGASAKI, KOBE & YOKOHAMA. 

Advances on Consignments to, and 

Eealers in productions of China and Japan. 



15S The Silk Goods of America. 

CHENEY BROTHERS^ 

Silk Manufacturers. 

Hartforfl ui Sonth Mancbestor, Com 

SALESROOMS, 

477, 479 & 481 BROOME ST., N. Y. 



DRESS SILKS, Black and Colored. 

GROS GRAINS, BROCADES, 
SATINS, PARASOL SILKS, 
MILLINERY SILKS 

Printed Handkerchiefs, 

PRINTED DRESS GOODS, 

PRINTED FOULARDS & SATINS, 
RIBBONS, SASHES, 

TRAMS, ORGANZLNES, 
Fine Patent Spun Silks, for Manufacturers. 




if 



w 



I 



*,:■ 






























3flfcS 




>f. »;; 




'Em;£V 



*TL\ 






■ 



fo;.v/-?y. - ■- : -:B-\^ 



antillnW.coNGlSF* 




ii 






■■■*•■"" 



mmmmmm—mmm 



